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Subject: '92 4Runner rear window problem...

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Bone Stock
Posts:0

12/06/2001 10:38 PM
All of the following holds true for either using the interior switch..or the key in the back.... My rear window will always go down, and once it starts going up, goes up just fine... speedwise... the problem is it sometimes won't even start to go up... I can hit the switch or turn the key, and I hear what sounds like a relay swithing 'on' but the window doesn't even try to move... the problem seems to be worse when it's cold.... Anyone have any ideas ?? (I'm guessing the motor is fine since it moves well once it moves... ) thanks in advance....

Bone Stock
Posts:0

12/15/2001 12:36 PM
Jason I have the same rear window problem that you had with your 4 runner. Did you solve the problem? I would appreciate any advice you can give me. Thanks Ron

Jody_Guokas___ User is Offline

Bone Stock
Posts:0

01/03/2002 2:59 PM
What a horible problem!!!!! My 87 is the same way. It just seems to get stuck every couple of inches, and I end up having to push it down or pull it up. I can hear the relay clicking, but the window does nothing. I thought it might be caused by the window track being out of allignment, but I lubricated it to all hell and nothing changed. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated! ------------ Jason at 12/6/2001 10:38:17 PM All of the following holds true for either using the interior switch..or the key in the back.... My rear window will always go down, and once it starts going up, goes up just fine... speedwise... the problem is it sometimes won't even start to go up... I can hit the switch or turn the key, and I hear what sounds like a relay swithing 'on' but the window doesn't even try to move... the problem seems to be worse when it's cold.... Anyone have any ideas ?? (I'm guessing the motor is fine since it moves well once it moves... ) thanks in advance....

Dave_Harvey___ User is Offline

Bone Stock
Posts:0

01/01/2003 1:18 PM
I found that the ground switching contacts in the dimmer switch itself were pitted from arcing and not making contact. I burnished the contacts once I got into the dimmer switch and it corrected the problem. Replacing the switch itself would also have corrected the problem. The cost of the switch was $82 if I bought it on-line. Thanks to Roger Brown for leading me to the problem. I had to remove the steering wheel and all the covers around the dimmer switch to get to the contacts. I also had to remove the cover to the switch itself. It really only took me about 1 hour to get it fixed and back together. These contacts carry allot of current. I ordered a new aftermarket headlight harness from www.autobulbdepot.com that will take the load off of those contacts and it will also give me much more voltage to the headlight bulbs themselves. Thanks for the help with this problem Roger and Roger. ------------ roger at 1/1/2003 1:05:39 PM Hi, first check your headlight relay. It is located in the fuse box in the enginecompartment. It should be noted on top or inside the box. The switching from Flash-Low-High all happens inside the dimmer so if you are having problems with this its probable cause would be the dimmer.

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