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Subject: hydraulic Assit Steering

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Bone Stock
Posts:46

08/16/2009 11:13 AM
So i just order the parts to do my hydraulic assit steering. This is not a pre fab kit at all but home made hillbilly set up. 1. Bought a 6" ram that can be pressurized at both ends. it is 3/4 diameter $85.99 2. 2 pre fabbed 34" long hydraulic lines. $7.95 each 3. 2 90* fittings 1/4 npt $1.95 each 4. 2 3/8 to 1/4 fittings to adapt to the ram $.45 each Now that i have everything needed to do the swap i just want to throw out some ideas and see what people think. First thing i am caught on is how to mount the ram to my cross over hysrteer. I have seen where people have mad sleeves the go over teh tie rod bar between teh two tie rods and just clamps on to the the tie rod bar. I have also seen where people have welded the mount directly on to the bar. Any thoughts about this, I will take many pictures on this whole process as i am very excited about this it will allow for my first locker to be put in the front end of my truck.

MIDWEST4X4.US

Forum Admin, Magazine Editor

Rock Star
Posts:2375

08/16/2009 11:39 AM
Hey IndyToy - did you get a power steering box that is drilled and tapped already, or are you going to do this yourself? One thought that comes to mind, it to make sure that your ram is as parallel to the axle as possible. The body side of the ram should be welded to your axle housing, and the piston side should be welded to the draglink. It's a pretty straightforward thing to do, just a bit time consuming for the first-timer - expect to spend a day or two tweaking it. I might also suggest that when you think you've got everything figured out, that you only tack weld (heavy tacks) everything into place, then put the front axle on jackstands, start up your truck and cycle the steering from full lock to full lock, looking for things that might bind (especially when the axle articulates). Also, post a few pictures of your front axle now, so that we can see what setup you have. We might be able to make some suggestions on where to put things and how. Congrats!!! Rick

Rick Webster Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - '74 FJ40 Land Cruiser "Measure once, cut twice"

Bone Stock
Posts:46

08/16/2009 2:25 PM
I am going to try and drill and tap my own. Its seems simple there is a Vein on top of the pump that runs from front to back. Hitting the vein will be the key and if i go to far i will junk my box. Since i have a couple laying around i hope one hits it. Being that my axle is moved forward in my truck giving me 107" wheel base i know that the second whole can not be drilled in the normal spot right through the A where it says toyota on the box. IT must be drilled on ths deivers side of the box. This whole should not pose a problem since it can be drilled all the way through.. The only issue is if the adpater can thread in to far. it will hit part of the gears. I am afraid that the ram might be to long since i am die hard toyota on this truck i am still using the toyota front axle. The birfs dont let me turn that much so i might end up having to much ram not for sure. Another thing i am doing to combat the issure of not upgrading to a new pump and box that is meant for this conversion is that i will be modifying the pump to flow more fluid. I will take the pump restrictor plate out that sits on the high pressure side of the pump right before the high pressure line comes out and drill a 13/64 hole through the restrictor. As for the axle i will get pictures tonight or tomorrow being that i am at work. But it is a standard toyota 85 axle nothing special there but there will have to be some good mounts being made.

MIDWEST4X4.US

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