!TI_3VOM___
Bone Stock
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| 01/18/2003 11:42 AM |
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| When the fuel pump went on my 98 Chevy, we found the gas tank all collapsed when we pulled it out. Not knowing the full history we suspected some nasty contact. But now the guy that fixed it has 2 more trucks like mine in the shop with identical gas tanks, caved in both bottom and sides, and is thinking it may be a presuure problem. He has sugested leaving the gas cap loose till he figures this out. Any one heard of this problem and what it may be? Possibly Evap or something? Help!!!! I don't want to buy another new gas tank, they are fricken expensive!!!!!! |
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Rick_W___
Bone Stock
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| 10/30/1998 10:39 AM |
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For what type and size lights?
Regards,
Rick W
On 10/22/98 8:28:41 AM, luke wrote:
> i need some soft light covers
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Rick_W___
Bone Stock
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| 12/21/1998 6:05 PM |
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What type of stuff are you looking for?
On 12/20/98 11:29:07 AM, Jonathon Gandy wrote:
> I am having a hard time finding 4-wheel drive stuff for my 89 GMC S-15.
> Any help would be appreciated. |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
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| 01/03/1999 3:38 AM |
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On 12/12/98 7:53:59 PM, Carl M wrote:
> Hey people i was just wondering if i made the right choice. My best friend
> owns a car dealership and i just went and ordered my 1999 chevy Z714x4. I
> am 16 and i get my licesne in 2 months, i ordered a ext cab and shortbed
> 4x4, with auto now i like to four wheel with my bro and fish and hunt. I
> was going to get a Camaro but i couldnt put a gutted deer in that but i can
> with a Z71. And im 6`3 and getting into the camaro would b a bitch. So if
> anyone out there would lik eto respeond pelase do.
> carl
Good choice. I think you should have went with the s10 ZR2 personally though. Full size trucks are heavier and tend to bog down more in thick mud. Not like taking a 99 Z71 into thick mud would be a good decision. That`s a damn nice truck though.
PS look in the ford forum. People are dissing ford. it`s pretty funny
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Rick_W___
Bone Stock
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| 02/08/1999 1:43 PM |
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Please post "Want Ads" in the Want Ads section of our site.
Thanks.
Rick
On 2/3/99 3:22:02 PM, Bryan wrote:
> Need interior door panels for a 70 custom 10.
Preferably black but will
> paint if needed. |
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Rick_W___
Bone Stock
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| 02/08/1999 1:46 PM |
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Andy,
The reason your trcuk is misfiring is because trace amounts of water and impurities are making t heir way into your ignition/electrical system. If you are having your truck pressure washed for you by a company, you may tell them about the problems you are experiencing and tell them to make adjustments for that. That way they won`t point the wand at your motor so much.
Hope that helps,
Rick W.
On 2/3/99 10:15:27 PM, Andy wrote:
> I have a 95` Chevy Blazer. Where I live we have a lot of winter weather
> and everytime it warms up I have my rig washed to remove the salt and
> stuff. It always seems like the next time I start the engine it seems to
> mis-fire an awful lot. I think this is because of the high-pressure
> underbody wash. I have tried the HEET(tm) stuff but was told it doesn`t
> really do much for newer engines. Maybe I should just drive to Montana and
> push it off a cliff. It is really becoming a pain in the rear. Do you guys
> have any ideas as to what is causing this and if so do you have any
> remedies? Thanks |
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Rick_W___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 02/13/1999 3:33 AM |
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Ryan,
We are doing a review on Superchips here in the next few days. Although it`s not on an S15, it may be of some help. Should be up on the site around the 15th of February.
Thanks,
Rick W
On 2/11/99 5:58:30 PM, Ryan Wahl wrote:
> I have a 89 s15, with the 4.3 v6, and I would like to put
a performance
> chip in it. Could someone recomend what chips
are good, and where to get them. |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
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| 03/17/1999 10:19 PM |
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I`m not sure if this is related, but I have major EGR valve/port problems that will give the same symptoms until the vehicle warms up. I have installed 2/yr for the past 3 years. Recently the local Chev dealer says the EGR port is clogged and requires cleaning for $500.
On 2/3/99 10:15:27 PM, Andy wrote:
> I have a 95` Chevy Blazer. Where I live we have a lot of winter weather
> and everytime it warms up I have my rig washed to remove the salt and
> stuff. It always seems like the next time I start the engine it seems to
> mis-fire an awful lot. I think this is because of the high-pressure
> underbody wash. I have tried the HEET(tm) stuff but was told it doesn`t
> really do much for newer engines. Maybe I should just drive to Montana and
> push it off a cliff. It is really becoming a pain in the rear. Do you guys
> have any ideas as to what is causing this and if so do you have any
> remedies? Thanks |
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GMC1500___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/16/1999 12:11 PM |
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On 6/18/99 7:31:08 AM, JK wrote:
> I have a 96 Z71 reg cab and box. There`s a creaking noise coming from the
> front when cornering.
Has anyone else heard this or experienced this?
> Quite annoying.
I have heard it is the sway bar bushings, but I have never experienced the problem. |
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GMC1500___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/16/1999 12:31 PM |
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On 1/12/99 2:10:08 PM, Tom Masters wrote:
> Does anyone know what is available for the 99 Suburban for camping, such as
> an attachable tent?
If I remember correctly "Cabelas" (Catalog Order: Hunting/Fishing/Camping Magazine) had a tent that attached to the rear of a
Blazer/Tahoe/Suburban, which allowed you to use the back of the suburban for your bed and the tent part for
getting dressed or eating or whatever.
Good Luck ! |
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Harmsie___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/16/1999 12:54 PM |
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On 6/25/99 12:09:20 PM, Billy Hale wrote:
> I own a 99 silverado Z71 and was wondering if I can put 33x12.50 BFG`s with
> 15x10 wheels without lifting the truck. I am just wondering if the tires
> would rub at all. If lifting is required, what do you recomend and how
> much of a lift is required?? Need a reply ASAP!!!!
> Thanks
If this is a new body style, I was told a 15" wheel will not fit.
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J.R._Juiliano___
Bone Stock
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| 07/16/1999 1:13 PM |
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Check to see if there is a dash pot on the throttle. It is designed to bring the throttle down gradually so that the fuel burns more cleanly.
If there is one, it might be either sticky or the vacuum on it (doesn`t) sucks.
J.R.
On 6/10/99 3:20:42 PM, Don McClair wrote:
> I have a 98 Z71 with a 5 spd manual trans and 350 engine. When you are
> driving and want to stop when you push the clutch in the engine will not
> return to idle until you come to almost a complete stop. When the A/C is
> on the problem is much worse. You can get the truck up to about 1500 rpms
> in 1st gear take your foot off the throttle and drive it for blocks and the
> throttle will not come down. The dealers say this is normal because of
> emissions, but does anyone have a suggestion or fix for this?
Thanks |
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J.R._Juiliano___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/16/1999 3:51 PM |
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Mick, most lift kits are merely a dropped bracket used to keep the front differential relative to the stock location. the longer a-arms on the aftermarket lift kits are what brings the lift up (and cranking up torsion bars).
Your best bet is to make sure that you don`t crank up the torsions too much and preload the joints. If you exceed a certain angle, you will most assuredly wear your CV joints out considerably in a 4x4. And you MUST get your truck aligned once the lift is completed.
Of course, if I am wrong here, please feel free to correct me.
J.R.
On 6/16/99 10:22:01 PM, Mick Brown wrote:
> My brother-in-law installed a 4" lift in his 89 Chev pickup and has since
> been plagued with CV joint problems. I am considering lifting my 92`, but
> am reluctant to sacrifice reliability. Is this a common problem, and if so,
> what can be done about it? |
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J.R._Juiliano___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/18/1999 6:47 PM |
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Should be http:\\www.gorancho.com
On 7/18/99 5:45:56 PM, Henry wrote:
> I cant for the life of me find Ranchos web page. Does anyone know it? |
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J.R._Juiliano___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/19/1999 12:42 PM |
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If you have polyurethane bushings on your control arms or sway bars (like another person posted here), you might get a creaking from the lack of lubrication on the bushings. It doesn`t affect performance, but it is annoying. You can try to lube them with some silicone-based grease, but you might have to take the bushing assemblies apart to get at them.
Also, check to make sure that any leaf springs/torsion bars are properly lubed at the joints. Springs will rub if you get dirt in there and you need to clean them out.
On 6/18/99 7:31:08 AM, JK wrote:
> I have a 96 Z71 reg cab and box. There`s a creaking noise coming from the
> front when cornering.
Has anyone else heard this or experienced this?
> Quite annoying. |
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ridge271___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/03/1999 11:53 AM |
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On 7/16/99 1:12:58 PM, J.R. Juiliano wrote:
> Check to see if there is a dash pot on the throttle. It is designed to
> bring the throttle down gradually so that the fuel burns more cleanly.
>
If there is one, it might be either sticky or the vacuum on it
> (doesn`t) sucks.
J.R.
On 6/10/99 3:20:42 PM, Don McClair wrote:
> I
> have a 98 Z71 with a 5 spd manual trans and 350 engine. When you are
>
> driving and want to stop when you push the clutch in the engine will not
>
> return to idle until you come to almost a complete stop. When the A/C
> is
> on the problem is much worse. You can get the truck up to about
> 1500 rpms
> in 1st gear take your foot off the throttle and drive it for
> blocks and the
> throttle will not come down. The dealers say this is
> normal because of
> emissions, but does anyone have a suggestion or fix
> for this?
Thanks |
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ridge271___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/03/1999 12:07 PM |
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Thanks for the reply. This has been checked and since I posted this complaint, a dealer reprogrammed the computer but it did not make any change. If you are stopped, the throttle works normal. One dealer told me this was a bigger problem on the trucks with the 305 engine. If you push the clutch in with the A/C on (while driving), tach reading about 1500 rpms the rpms will finally drop only to about 1100 go back up to 1500 down to 1100 etc. During this time the compressor is not cycling. When I told the dealers this (I have had it to 3 different dealers) they just ignore it. It is a great truck but I wish there was a solution to this problem. Thanks again.
On 7/16/99 1:12:58 PM, J.R. Juiliano wrote:
> Check to see if there is a dash pot on the throttle. It is designed to
> bring the throttle down gradually so that the fuel burns more cleanly.
>
If there is one, it might be either sticky or the vacuum on it
> (doesn`t) sucks.
J.R.
On 6/10/99 3:20:42 PM, Don McClair wrote:
> I
> have a 98 Z71 with a 5 spd manual trans and 350 engine. When you are
>
> driving and want to stop when you push the clutch in the engine will not
>
> return to idle until you come to almost a complete stop. When the A/C
> is
> on the problem is much worse. You can get the truck up to about
> 1500 rpms
> in 1st gear take your foot off the throttle and drive it for
> blocks and the
> throttle will not come down. The dealers say this is
> normal because of
> emissions, but does anyone have a suggestion or fix
> for this?
Thanks |
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Rick___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/11/1999 10:54 AM |
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Hi Brian,
I had a very similar situation in my `88 Chevy p/up. My problem actually turned out to be two problems. The first was actually the charcoal canaster that was rattling on the fender well. After I got that fixed, I also noticed that I had an exhaust leak that would only show up when I was accelerating or driving over 40 m.p.h.
You might want to check those out.
rick
On 8/7/99 5:56:23 PM, Brian N wrote:
> My 95 Z71 350 has a rattle coming from the front of the engine (timing
> chain?). It can only be heard when it is in drive and you begin to
> accelerate from idle (around 800-900 rpm). It disappears above 1000 rpm.
> It also disappears below 700 rpm. And it is not present when the
> transmission is in neutral or park (no load on the motor) at any rpm. I
> have heard this same rattle on many other Z71s. Has anybody else had this
> problem and does anyone know what it is? It tends to be annoying. |
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GMC1500___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/17/1999 1:19 PM |
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On 8/7/99 5:56:23 PM, Brian N wrote:
> My 95 Z71 350 has a rattle coming from the front of the engine (timing
> chain?). It can only be heard when it is in drive and you begin to
> accelerate from idle (around 800-900 rpm). It disappears above 1000 rpm.
> It also disappears below 700 rpm. And it is not present when the
> transmission is in neutral or park (no load on the motor) at any rpm. I
> have heard this same rattle on many other Z71s. Has anybody else had this
> problem and does anyone know what it is? It tends to be annoying.
I have had this problem and it is the Tension Idler Pulley that puts tension on the serpentine belt, the bearing runs
out of grease and since the pulley is metal you start getting a resonating rattle sound. You can get a replacement
pulley at checker auto parts for about $13, it is a left handed thread when you take the other pulley off or if you go
to the dealer you have to buy the whole tensioner assembly for about $45.
Good Luck,
Randy |
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GMC1500___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/30/1999 3:21 PM |
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On 8/23/99 4:12:57 AM, Nick wrote:
> I own a 95 Z71 and the original window sticker states that it came with
> factory rear locking differential. Does anyone know what kind of locker
> this could be. What are Gov-Lok differentials I heard that GM puts those in
> their trucks is that true.
Check out this URL, it will tell you about the Eaton Gov-Loc that GM uses in their trucks.
http://www.torquecontrol.eaton.com/
Good luck,
Randy
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Mark___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/04/1999 12:57 AM |
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On 8/24/99 3:51:08 PM, Russ wrote:
> I just bought a 99 S-10 ZR2 extended cab and love it. I want to make it
> higher off the ground with cooler offroad tires.
It has the factory 15"
> Wheels and the all terrain tires on there I think they are the all Terrain
> 31.5`s
I want to make it higher off the ground and have larger tires.
> Basically I want to make it look like a more badass 4X4!!!
What do you
> think I should get and how much am I looking at in costs? Any ideas would
> really help.. Thanks
I saw a 4"(body)lift on one here in AZ. The guy said he had it installed at Dick Cepek. I run 32-11.50 BFG AT`s on my stock blaZeR2 with no rubbing. The increase in traction over the factory 31-10.50 Trail T/A`s was amazing. Pretty much only have to use 4WD in sand, because of the 32`s and the limited slip in the rearend.
Good luck finding the lift. Happy pounding!
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Lando___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/13/1999 1:36 PM |
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On 8/3/99 12:06:59 PM, ridge271 wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. This has been checked and since I posted this
> complaint, a dealer reprogrammed the computer but it did not make any
> change. If you are stopped, the throttle works normal. One dealer told me
> this was a bigger problem on the trucks with the 305 engine. If you push
> the clutch in with the A/C on (while driving), tach reading about 1500 rpms
> the rpms will finally drop only to about 1100 go back up to 1500 down to
> 1100 etc. During this time the compressor is not cycling. When I told the
> dealers this (I have had it to 3 different dealers) they just ignore it.
> It is a great truck but I wish there was a solution to this problem.
> Thanks again.
On 7/16/99 1:12:58 PM, J.R. Juiliano wrote:
> Check to
> see if there is a dash pot on the throttle. It is designed to
> bring
> the throttle down gradually so that the fuel burns more cleanly.
>
>
If there is one, it might be either sticky or the vacuum on it
>
> (doesn`t) sucks.
J.R.
On 6/10/99 3:20:42 PM, Don McClair wrote:
> I
>
> have a 98 Z71 with a 5 spd manual trans and 350 engine. When you are
>
>
> driving and want to stop when you push the clutch in the engine
> will not
>
> return to idle until you come to almost a complete stop.
> When the A/C
> is
> on the problem is much worse. You can get the
> truck up to about
> 1500 rpms
> in 1st gear take your foot off the
> throttle and drive it for
> blocks and the
> throttle will not come
> down. The dealers say this is
> normal because of
> emissions, but
> does anyone have a suggestion or fix
> for this?
Thanks
That sounds exactly like a problem I had with a F*rd F150, `93, 300 six cylinder. When I pulled the codes it told me the O2 sensor was off (can`t remember if lean or rich) and the ECT (engine coolant sensor) was reading out of range. I replaced the ECT but it didn`t help; I sold the truck shortly thereafter without finding the source of the problem. Sorry can`t be more help. |
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Jim_Pohl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/17/1999 9:08 AM |
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| On 1/12/99 2:10:08 PM, Tom Masters wrote:
> Does anyone know what is available for the 99 Suburban for camping, such as
> an attachable tent? |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/17/1999 9:12 AM |
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| On 9/17/99 9:08:16 AM, Jim Pohl wrote:
> On 1/12/99 2:10:08 PM, Tom Masters wrote:
> Does anyone know what is
> available for the 99 Suburban for camping, such as
> an attachable tent?
Campmor catalogue at 1-=800-230-2153 has tents to attach to the back of pickups etc. I know yours was an old e-mail I hope this helps. |
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Jeff___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/17/1999 10:35 PM |
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| On 9/17/99 9:45:46 AM, JimPohl wrote:
> Can anyone clear up some concerns of mine? The K1500 with a 5.7l engine is
> rated at 6500 lbs. I am pulling 6500llbs. The dealeer tells me not to
> worry! Should I be looking at a K2500 with a Vortec 7400? Don`t what kind
> of gas mileage I`d get with that beast. Help!!!! My experience says to go with the 7400. you will be a lot happier. My last chevy 4x4 had the 5.7 and I got 7 mpg pulling. The extra power is nice. My new truck has the 7400 and I`m getting 9 mpg with the same rear axle. |
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Chad___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/18/1999 4:36 PM |
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If you are spraying the motor when cleaning try covering the distributor and sparkplug wires. Misfires usually occurs if the electrical flow from the ignition system is interrupted.
On 3/17/99 10:19:28 PM, wrote:
> I`m not sure if this is related, but I have major EGR valve/port problems
> that will give the same symptoms until the vehicle warms up. I have
> installed 2/yr for the past 3 years. Recently the local Chev dealer says
> the EGR port is clogged and requires cleaning for $500.
On 2/3/99
> 10:15:27 PM, Andy wrote:
> I have a 95` Chevy Blazer. Where I live we
> have a lot of winter weather
> and everytime it warms up I have my rig
> washed to remove the salt and
> stuff. It always seems like the next
> time I start the engine it seems to
> mis-fire an awful lot. I think
> this is because of the high-pressure
> underbody wash. I have tried the
> HEET(tm) stuff but was told it doesn`t
> really do much for newer
> engines. Maybe I should just drive to Montana and
> push it off a cliff.
> It is really becoming a pain in the rear. Do you guys
> have any ideas
> as to what is causing this and if so do you have any
> remedies? Thanks |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/22/1999 8:39 AM |
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On 7/16/99 12:54:12 PM, Harmsie wrote:
> On 6/25/99 12:09:20 PM, Billy Hale wrote:
> I own a 99 silverado Z71 and
> was wondering if I can put 33x12.50 BFG`s with
> 15x10 wheels without
> lifting the truck. I am just wondering if the tires
> would rub at all.
> If lifting is required, what do you recomend and how
> much of a lift is
> required?? Need a reply ASAP!!!!
>
> Thanks
If this is a new body style, I was told a 15" wheel will not fit.
True, you must keep the 16s because the disc brakes are too large for 15`s to fit. I was told that the 31s that they come with are all you can get out of the factory height. A body lift will let you put 33s though, looking at about $650 for the lift. |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/22/1999 6:23 PM |
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Have you checked all your fluids, maybe try buying a decoder from a parts store or have a mechanic get the codes from the computer. Not all problems cause the check light to come on.
On 9/20/99 4:51:11 PM, jj wrote:
> Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone else is getting the mpg that I am with
> their `97ish extended cab p/u, Z71, 5.7L (350cc) engine.
I seemed to be
> doing well a few months ago at 15mpg but lately it`s down to 11mpg around
> town. I don`t put my foot in it at all.
The dealer said that if there is a
> problem, there would be a "check engine" light. No light though, just lousy
> mileage.
Thanks, JJ |
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Bob___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/14/1999 5:05 PM |
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| I have a 97 ZR2,and the standard S10 4x4 parts dont fit the ZR2.The frames on ZR2s are different from the regular models,as well as the whole suspension and axles.I am not aware of any companies that offer lifts for ZR2s.If you want to level your front end,crank up the torsion adjuster bolts 1 or 2 turns,but dont go more than that,because you WILL tear apart your CV boots.And you dont need longer torsions,just a better spring rate on them. |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/25/1999 6:28 PM |
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i like the look of 16" rims but i haven`t seen a great selection of tires to go on them. that and they are a little more expensive.
On 10/25/99 4:27:10 PM, Sparky Ottoman wrote:
> New to this board and I have a few questions.
Bought a new 99 suburban
> K1500 4 x 4 and would like
to upgrade tires and wheels. I have the 3.73
> pumpkin gears
so the slightly larger tires should not be a problem.
I
> am thinking about the P265 75R16 BF Goodrich KO All terrains
. Should I go
> with 15" or 16" rims. I notice a lot of trucks are
using the 15" rims as
> replacements to the OEM 16" Why?
Finally, I like the Centerline Hellcat
> 35 wheels except someone
told me not to get Centerlines as they are not
> clearcoated. Since these wheels will be on the truck year round, is not
> clearcoated a problem? I live in Wisconsin where snow and salt are very
> common.
Thanks to all............... |
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jack___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/26/1999 4:23 PM |
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| On 9/22/99 12:59:26 AM, nick rainey wrote:
> i just bought a 99 s-10 Zr2, and i was wondering if a lift kit for a
> regular 4x4 s-10 will work under a Zr2. Ive fount a 5.5" susp. lift for a
> 99s-10, but wasnt sure if it will work with the Zr2 susp. I also would like
> to know if I can find longer torsion bars to level the front of my Zr2. |
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jack___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/26/1999 4:30 PM |
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| hey i am looking for a big suspension lift for the same
truck 99-00 zr2. I cant find any susp bigger than 2". If you find
any lift thats any where from 4"-9" please tell me where and how u got it, or where i can look at some.thanks... |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/20/1999 9:24 PM |
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On 6/25/99 12:09:20 PM, Billy Hale wrote:
> I own a 99 silverado Z71 and was wondering if I can put 33x12.50 BFG`s with
> 15x10 wheels without lifting the truck. I am just wondering if the tires
> would rub at all. If lifting is required, what do you recomend and how
> much of a lift is required?? Need a reply ASAP!!!!
> Thanks |
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DAVE___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/25/1999 11:24 AM |
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On 9/6/99 9:00:08 PM, JESSE wrote:
> HEY
WHATS THE BEST KIT TO CONVERT TO MANUAL HUBS FROM SUTOMATIC LOCKING
> HUBS. I HAVE A `82 BLAZER 4X4 WITH A TH700R4, 4 SPEED AUTO WITH O/D. I
> TRUST MANUAL BETTER THAN AUTO HUBS.
JESSE |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/29/1999 9:22 PM |
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| On 11/28/99 10:21:35 AM, Shawn Kempshall wrote:
> I have 1989 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban with a 4 inch Suspension litf and 33 inch
> All-Terrain BFG`s.
I have steering wheel play which makes it tough when
> towing horse trailers.
I would like to adjust play out if possible other
> that the jam nut adjustment.
I have replaced the steering arm and Pitman
> arm to compensate for the lift , the steering stabelizer
and steering
> box.
I have a Chiltons manual the describes a pre load adjustment that has
> to be done in a bench vise.
Has any one performed this adjustment, or any
> other idea`s???? |
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Stephen___
Bone Stock
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| 11/30/1999 11:10 PM |
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On 11/25/99 6:38:10 PM, Rob wrote:
> I have a 99 Silverado Z71 and am trying to find out the max tire size that
> will fit without lifting or modifying...
Thanx In Advance |
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Stephen___
Bone Stock
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| 11/30/1999 11:12 PM |
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On 11/25/99 6:38:10 PM, Rob wrote:
> I have a 99 Silverado Z71 and am trying to find out the max tire size that
> will fit without lifting or modifying...
Thanx In Advance
I know that you can fit 285/75R16 tires on the 99`s. I recommend you tighten up your torsion bar which in return gives you close to an inch or more lift on your front end
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david___
Bone Stock
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| 12/20/1999 8:12 AM |
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Art,
I hope you waited. It will definitely be worth the wait for the 2000 version. It has a 3rd row seating option available. I am waiting for a dealer in Texas to have an opening to order, but I`m very willing to wait for all of the improvements coming out. Good luck, David
On 9/24/99 10:29:49 AM, Art wrote:
> I want a Tahoe, but has anybody heard about the changes for the 2000 model
> year. I can`t decide if i should buy now or wait.
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david_schere___
Bone Stock
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| 12/29/1999 1:19 PM |
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| shawn
i would first have someone in the truck rock the wheel back and forth so that you can see which point the slop is coming from never mess with the preload adjuster on the box!!!!
david
On 11/28/99 10:21:35 AM, Shawn Kempshall wrote:
> I have 1989 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban with a 4 inch Suspension litf and 33 inch
> All-Terrain BFG`s.
I have steering wheel play which makes it tough when
> towing horse trailers.
I would like to adjust play out if possible other
> that the jam nut adjustment.
I have replaced the steering arm and Pitman
> arm to compensate for the lift , the steering stabelizer
and steering
> box.
I have a Chiltons manual the describes a pre load adjustment that has
> to be done in a bench vise.
Has any one performed this adjustment, or any
> other idea`s???? |
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Rick___
Bone Stock
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| 01/08/2000 1:46 AM |
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Jason,
If you want to have it done right, I would definately recommend finding a local Zeibart (spelling?) dealer or the equivelant. I`ve tried the old do-it-yourself stuff and it either comes out really crappy or it wears off after a season. It`s been many years since I`ve lived outside of arid Arizona, but my experiences while living back east and in the mid west always led me to the experts. They`ll exev drill holes in your doors, body, etc in inconspicuous places and fill the insides wiht rust preventative.
Hope that helps.
Rick.
On 1/7/00 5:11:18 PM, Jason wrote:
> I want to put some type of undercoating on my truck. it is a 96 chevy 1/2
> extra cab short bed. What is the best way to go about this. I want to give
> it all a clean look. Make all the frame and everything underneath that is
> likly to develope rust a face lift. Make it look nice and make it durable.
> Any suggestions would be great...thanks |
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Paul___
Bone Stock
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| 01/27/2000 3:01 PM |
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Paul at 1/27/99
J.R.'s is right. Most susp. lift kits for ifs Chevys try to keep the CV angles within reason and very close to stock. cranking up the torsion bars is not the best idea since it makes the vehicle harder to align and some down-travel of the wheels is limited. Maybe your brother-in-law did not install the lift properly(Its not the easiest thing in the world.) I have a lot of friends with lifted latemodel chevys and they have not experienced any major problems yet accept the usual decrease in on-road comfort that is always associated with big lifts and tires.
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J.R. Juiliano at 7/16/99 3:51:15 PM
Mick, most lift kits are merely a dropped bracket used to keep the front differential relative to the stock location. the longer a-arms on the aftermarket lift kits are what brings the lift up (and cranking up torsion bars).
Your best bet is to make sure that you don`t crank up the torsions too much and preload the joints. If you exceed a certain angle, you will most assuredly wear your CV joints out considerably in a 4x4. And you MUST get your truck aligned once the lift is completed.
Of course, if I am wrong here, please feel free to correct me.
J.R.
On 6/16/99 10:22:01 PM, Mick Brown wrote:
> My brother-in-law installed a 4" lift in his 89 Chev pickup and has since
> been plagued with CV joint problems. I am considering lifting my 92`, but
> am reluctant to sacrifice reliability. Is this a common problem, and if so,
> what can be done about it? |
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Don_McClair___
Bone Stock
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| 02/08/2000 7:29 AM |
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I finally found a solution to this problem. When the truck turned 30,000 miles one morning when I started it I knew something was different. The engine did not rev to about 1500 and come back to idle. The truck started working the way I thought it should. This lasted for about 4,000 miles and then it started doing the same old thing again. I took it back to the dealer and they reprogrammed the computer again and while they had it they noticed the positive battery terminal was leaking and replaced the battery. I was pleased about that. When I got the truck back, it worked great once again. after about a thousand miles, I noticed one day while slowing down in third inpreparation for a curve, the throttle jumped again. The truck needed an oil change so while I was draining the oil I disconnected the battery. All is well once again. Don't know what the long term effects are but I have figured out that if it starts acting crazy, I will just disconnect the battery. Also, I have noticed about a 1 mpg loss but it is worth it to have the truck more pleasureable to drive.
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Lando at 9/13/99 1:36:21 PM
On 8/3/99 12:06:59 PM, ridge271 wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. This has been checked and since I posted this
> complaint, a dealer reprogrammed the computer but it did not make any
> change. If you are stopped, the throttle works normal. One dealer told me
> this was a bigger problem on the trucks with the 305 engine. If you push
> the clutch in with the A/C on (while driving), tach reading about 1500 rpms
> the rpms will finally drop only to about 1100 go back up to 1500 down to
> 1100 etc. During this time the compressor is not cycling. When I told the
> dealers this (I have had it to 3 different dealers) they just ignore it.
> It is a great truck but I wish there was a solution to this problem.
> Thanks again.
On 7/16/99 1:12:58 PM, J.R. Juiliano wrote:
> Check to
> see if there is a dash pot on the throttle. It is designed to
> bring
> the throttle down gradually so that the fuel burns more cleanly.
>
>
If there is one, it might be either sticky or the vacuum on it
>
> (doesn`t) sucks.
J.R.
On 6/10/99 3:20:42 PM, Don McClair wrote:
> I
>
> have a 98 Z71 with a 5 spd manual trans and 350 engine. When you are
>
>
> driving and want to stop when you push the clutch in the engine
> will not
>
> return to idle until you come to almost a complete stop.
> When the A/C
> is
> on the problem is much worse. You can get the
> truck up to about
> 1500 rpms
> in 1st gear take your foot off the
> throttle and drive it for
> blocks and the
> throttle will not come
> down. The dealers say this is
> normal because of
> emissions, but
> does anyone have a suggestion or fix
> for this?
Thanks
That sounds exactly like a problem I had with a F*rd F150, `93, 300 six cylinder. When I pulled the codes it told me the O2 sensor was off (can`t remember if lean or rich) and the ECT (engine coolant sensor) was reading out of range. I replaced the ECT but it didn`t help; I sold the truck shortly thereafter without finding the source of the problem. Sorry can`t be more help. |
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Wes___
Bone Stock
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| 02/27/2000 4:36 AM |
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I just bought a 99 z-71 and had 285-75-16s put on it and have no clearance problems at all. a 285 is real close to 33s but they're not 12.5" wide. looks good though.
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at 9/22/1999 8:38:52 AM
On 7/16/99 12:54:12 PM, Harmsie wrote:
> On 6/25/99 12:09:20 PM, Billy Hale wrote:
> I own a 99 silverado Z71 and
> was wondering if I can put 33x12.50 BFG`s with
> 15x10 wheels without
> lifting the truck. I am just wondering if the tires
> would rub at all.
> If lifting is required, what do you recomend and how
> much of a lift is
> required?? Need a reply ASAP!!!!
>
> Thanks
If this is a new body style, I was told a 15" wheel will not fit.
True, you must keep the 16s because the disc brakes are too large for 15`s to fit. I was told that the 31s that they come with are all you can get out of the factory height. A body lift will let you put 33s though, looking at about $650 for the lift. |
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Darren_Sparks___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 02/27/2000 3:32 PM |
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wes at 2/27/2000 4:36:04 AM
I just bought a 99 z-71 and had 285-75-16s put on it and have no clearance problems at all. a 285 is real close to 33s but they're not 12.5" wide. looks good though.
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at 9/22/1999 8:38:52 AM
On 7/16/99 12:54:12 PM, Harmsie wrote:
> On 6/25/99 12:09:20 PM, Billy Hale wrote:
> I own a 99 silverado Z71 and
> was wondering if I can put 33x12.50 BFG`s with
> 15x10 wheels without
> lifting the truck. I am just wondering if the tires
> would rub at all.
> If lifting is required, what do you recomend and how
> much of a lift is
> required?? Need a reply ASAP!!!!
>
> Thanks
If this is a new body style, I was told a 15" wheel will not fit.
True, you must keep the 16s because the disc brakes are too large for 15`s to fit. I was told that the 31s that they come with are all you can get out of the factory height. A body lift will let you put 33s though, looking at about $650 for the lift. |
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Darren_Sparks___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 02/27/2000 3:36 PM |
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For a new body style truck, 16" rims are only allowed. A 16x8.5" will be probably be about all you get without a lift. You could drive with 33's on the truck but the road better be straight with no turns on it what so ever. I put a 4" Trailmaster suspension lift and ran 33x12.50's with a 15x10 rim and had no problems whatso ever. Although, new body style trucks had difficulty with a 16X10 rim according to Four Wheeler magazine, and the truck had a 4" lift on it also.
wes at 2/27/2000 4:36:04 AM
I just bought a 99 z-71 and had 285-75-16s put on it and have no clearance problems at all. a 285 is real close to 33s but they're not 12.5" wide. looks good though.
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at 9/22/1999 8:38:52 AM
On 7/16/99 12:54:12 PM, Harmsie wrote:
> On 6/25/99 12:09:20 PM, Billy Hale wrote:
> I own a 99 silverado Z71 and
> was wondering if I can put 33x12.50 BFG`s with
> 15x10 wheels without
> lifting the truck. I am just wondering if the tires
> would rub at all.
> If lifting is required, what do you recomend and how
> much of a lift is
> required?? Need a reply ASAP!!!!
>
> Thanks
If this is a new body style, I was told a 15" wheel will not fit.
True, you must keep the 16s because the disc brakes are too large for 15`s to fit. I was told that the 31s that they come with are all you can get out of the factory height. A body lift will let you put 33s though, looking at about $650 for the lift. |
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GMC1722___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 03/31/2000 2:22 AM |
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I LIKE 16" RIMS ALSO WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO BE USING THE TIRES FOR OFFROAD OR ONROAD...IF I WAS GOING TO USE THEM FOR ON ROAD MAINLY I WOULD GET MICHELIN P265/75/16 BECAUSE THE HAVE GREAT TRACTION, A GREAT RIDE, THEIR SPORTY... I JUST LIKE THEM... I HAVE A 96 AND WE PUT MICHELIN'S ON OURS THE BEST THING WE EVER DID.. WE DRIVE ON LONG TRIPS SO A NICE RIDE IS A TOP PRIOROTY FOR US..
BUT THE BFGOODRICH'S ARE SUPPOSE TO GOOD, THEIR ALSO VERY SHARP AND PROBABLY A GOOD TIRE... AND I WOULD DEFINITELY NOT GET ANYTHING SMALLER THAN A 265 TIRE
THEY PUT TO SMALL OF TIRES ON THEM NOW!!! ALTHOUGH IN 2000 THEY ARE PUTTING 265 ON THE SUBURBAN'S..OF COURSE THAT MEANS YOU CAN 285'S THAT FIT PERFECTLY.
THE DECISION IS YOURS SO ... I HOPE I HELPED????
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at 10/25/1999 6:27:32 PM
i like the look of 16" rims but i haven`t seen a great selection of tires to go on them. that and they are a little more expensive.
On 10/25/99 4:27:10 PM, Sparky Ottoman wrote:
> New to this board and I have a few questions.
Bought a new 99 suburban
> K1500 4 x 4 and would like
to upgrade tires and wheels. I have the 3.73
> pumpkin gears
so the slightly larger tires should not be a problem.
I
> am thinking about the P265 75R16 BF Goodrich KO All terrains
. Should I go
> with 15" or 16" rims. I notice a lot of trucks are
using the 15" rims as
> replacements to the OEM 16" Why?
Finally, I like the Centerline Hellcat
> 35 wheels except someone
told me not to get Centerlines as they are not
> clearcoated. Since these wheels will be on the truck year round, is not
> clearcoated a problem? I live in Wisconsin where snow and salt are very
> common.
Thanks to all............... |
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John___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 02/09/2001 10:15 PM |
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I have a '97 Sub,3/4 ton TD. definatly go with the 16" wheel, not only will it help with brake clearance, but it fills out the looks of the wheel package on such a big truck. As for me I went with the Alcoa LTS(sort of a starlook) shod with the 265's Goodyear AT/S. Great road tire, with an agressive look. All the big trucks around here(IND) that I've seen are going to them, good luck. JR
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GMC1722 at 3/31/2000 2:22:07 AM
I LIKE 16" RIMS ALSO WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO BE USING THE TIRES FOR OFFROAD OR ONROAD...IF I WAS GOING TO USE THEM FOR ON ROAD MAINLY I WOULD GET MICHELIN P265/75/16 BECAUSE THE HAVE GREAT TRACTION, A GREAT RIDE, THEIR SPORTY... I JUST LIKE THEM... I HAVE A 96 AND WE PUT MICHELIN'S ON OURS THE BEST THING WE EVER DID.. WE DRIVE ON LONG TRIPS SO A NICE RIDE IS A TOP PRIOROTY FOR US..
BUT THE BFGOODRICH'S ARE SUPPOSE TO GOOD, THEIR ALSO VERY SHARP AND PROBABLY A GOOD TIRE... AND I WOULD DEFINITELY NOT GET ANYTHING SMALLER THAN A 265 TIRE
THEY PUT TO SMALL OF TIRES ON THEM NOW!!! ALTHOUGH IN 2000 THEY ARE PUTTING 265 ON THE SUBURBAN'S..OF COURSE THAT MEANS YOU CAN 285'S THAT FIT PERFECTLY.
THE DECISION IS YOURS SO ... I HOPE I HELPED????
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at 10/25/1999 6:27:32 PM
i like the look of 16" rims but i haven`t seen a great selection of tires to go on them. that and they are a little more expensive.
On 10/25/99 4:27:10 PM, Sparky Ottoman wrote:
> New to this board and I have a few questions.
Bought a new 99 suburban
> K1500 4 x 4 and would like
to upgrade tires and wheels. I have the 3.73
> pumpkin gears
so the slightly larger tires should not be a problem.
I
> am thinking about the P265 75R16 BF Goodrich KO All terrains
. Should I go
> with 15" or 16" rims. I notice a lot of trucks are
using the 15" rims as
> replacements to the OEM 16" Why?
Finally, I like the Centerline Hellcat
> 35 wheels except someone
told me not to get Centerlines as they are not
> clearcoated. Since these wheels will be on the truck year round, is not
> clearcoated a problem? I live in Wisconsin where snow and salt are very
> common.
Thanks to all............... |
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anonymous___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/29/2003 10:40 PM |
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Hey im not really sure bout this but i believe it the fuel vapor line that runs from the EVAP cannister to the Throttle body if it gets clogged up then it causes a pressure problem because when it gets clogged right when you take the fuel cap off youll hear alot of air escape. Hope this helps |
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Bart___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 02/19/2003 10:48 PM |
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Replace your gas cap. It is supposed to allow air in. It is collapsing due to a vacuum. The cap is bad!
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Anonymous at 1/29/2003 10:39:51 PM
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Hey im not really sure bout this but i believe it the fuel vapor line that runs from the EVAP cannister to the Throttle body if it gets clogged up then it causes a pressure problem because when it gets clogged right when you take the fuel cap off youll hear alot of air escape. Hope this helps |
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