pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
 |
| 11/24/2007 6:03 PM |
|
| hey guys i was wondering if yo |
|
|
|
|
SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
|
| 11/24/2007 6:44 PM |
|
| Simple if it is threaded put in a thread plug if not press in a plug. There is nothing back there otherwise. Also be advised that shorties will not help lower RPM torque at all, it will actual hurt it. They are more show than go here. Get you some Tri Y's if you really want a header that can do some good for you. |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 11/24/2007 7:13 PM |
|
why is there even a hole there? is there some kind of performance water pump or something that may go into other vehicles with this engine?
but thanks for info on the headers i really didnt know that. my old ones kinda warped a little when i took em out i think (the manifold holes didnt line up with the head they fell short) so i got these because they were only 100 a piece and it said it increased hp, but probably only at a higher rpm. |
|
|
|
|
webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
|
| 11/24/2007 8:14 PM |
|
Actually center-dump headers will probably work better for you than tri-Y's. They have a better, smoother torque and HP curve. You can get a great set of center-dump headers off of many Corvette engines. They're really small in size, hug the block nicely, and don't interfere with a lot of moving parts (e.g. steering shaft, etc.).
As far as that hole goes, GM is notorious for putting copious holes in their blocks. Depending upon application, you could use that threaded hole for a temp gauge. However, just get an NPT threaded plug (one with an allen head) from your local hardware store. It's probably a 1/4" plug - I had to put two of them on my block when building it. Lastly, check for one on the back of the block that leads to the water jacket, and also check on the bottom of the block near where the oil pump mounts... there may be a threaded hole there that oil will spew out of if the machine shop didn't already plug it.
Rick |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
|
| 11/24/2007 10:26 PM |
|
| Rick, Tri Y's date from the 50's from Thorley and there is no finer street header made period.(they are not cheap either)They are long tube 4 into 2 into 1 for a reason, broad power curve and better low end and midrange torque. Short headers on vette are because there is not room for proper long tube ones, not because it is the best thing going. Header tuning works on a couple of theories together. One is the mass of the gas moving in tube and its velocity which is influence by tube diameter and the other is the length of the tube because it is tuned to have the sound wave from pulse reflected back at the proper time frame to provide a partial vacuum at exhaust port when sound energy wave that has been reflected returns. You want 32 to 34 inch tubes for best lower to midrange power and around 28 or so for top end. Collector diameter and length plays a roll as well. (longer and smaller has better low and midrange torque than fat and short) Generally for a SB you want 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 inch tubes (depending on displacement) and BB 1 3/4 inch. Too big of tube does not give better power, it can hurt it some in power band. Little shorties or short center dumps are just a limited attempt to kinda balance exhaust pressure on cylinders. They will not provide any scavenging unless you maybe wind it up to maybe 10 grand or more. |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 11/25/2007 4:53 AM |
|
hey the hole isnt threaded and i thought it was just a bolt i mustof took out on accident, so i was thinking of plugging it, but its not threaded, so thats not the case.
reason why i built the engine was because it over heated and i cracked a head so i did all that to it. now that its all together i put water on it and this hole that must have ben always open like that is now starting to let water out? just because i changed heads? |
|
|
|
|
SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
|
| 11/25/2007 5:29 AM |
|
| Did you have block tanked? |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 11/25/2007 6:59 AM |
|
i dont know what that means...probably not... all i did was fix up the top end and drained the radiator and put new water in and it started coming out of that hole (i havent even attempted to crank it yet). i just dont wanna plug it if it shouldn't be plugged, but if it wont hurt anything i will plug it. if theres a water pump that will cover the hole i will buy it.
that is the only spot that leaks. i stop the water coming out with my finger and nothing comes out anywhere else. |
|
|
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 11/25/2007 7:17 AM |
|
| what type of plug should i use on this? i dont want the plug to blow off from pressure.
|
|
|
|
|
webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
|
| 11/25/2007 9:47 AM |
|
That is peculiar. There are a number of small brass plugs that can go into a block. Can you get a closeup picture of the hole? leave enuough in the picture so that I can orient where it is please.
Tanked means that you took the block into a machine shop and had it washed and cleaned. It's a process called hot tanking. If so, sometimes the shops pull out plugs, bolts, and the likes to get every nook and cranny clean, and forget to put some back in.
Rick |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
|
| 11/25/2007 10:25 AM |
|
Actually, now that I'm looking a bit more closely at the picture you have... The top and middle holes (the two directly above the one that you've circled) are the blind-tapped holes for mounting the water pump. The third hole is part of the water pump / water jakckets design for fluid circulation.
I'll assume that you had a water pump on the engine when you filled it with fluid, right. :) If you did, did you use the same water pump that came off of the engine, or did you get a new one?
Below is a picture that shows how the water pump is supposed to cover that hole in the block. Again, it's part of the fluid circulation system. [P.S. that's not a bolt hole that the arrow is pointed to]
Image Uploaded To Thread:
[img]http://www.4x4review.com/discussions2/uploaded/webby4x4/20071125102544_water-pump.jpg[/img]
Rick
|
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
|
| 11/25/2007 11:16 AM |
|
| Good point Webby |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 11/25/2007 1:42 PM |
|
yeah but the original pump doesnt cover that hole on this truck... but can you give me that part number so i can get that pump? and should i still plug it for awile?
all the other pumps dor this truck dont have that hole. i looked on autozone and napa and all that... but i do want a water pump like that so can i get a part number or something? |
|
|
|
|
webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
|
| 11/25/2007 1:45 PM |
|
A part number won't do you a lot of good, as Chevy (in their infinite wisdom) decided to make nearly identical water pumps, but with different heights.
You can try a waterpump for a 1988-2004 Chevy pickup, Blazer or Suburban though. I know they used this design with the serpentine belt setup, but I can't remember if they used it on the v-belt setup or not.
If you're going to use all of your stock bracketry, be sure to measure the height of your waterpump (set it on a table with the impeller facing downwards). Then, using a t-handle, neasure how tall it is. You'll have to get one that is the same height, or your belts will never lign up.
Rick |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 11/25/2007 2:04 PM |
|
| i cant find one. will it be alright if i plug it? and if its ok to plug it, what to plug it with? |
|
|
|
|
webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
|
| 11/25/2007 2:26 PM |
|
To be honest, I'm not 100% sure about that. I would *think* (big assumption here) that you might be able to plug it with a mini freeze plug.
However, I would strongly suggest that you call your local engine shop and ask them though.
As fas as the water pump goes, most of the pumps I've installed on my Chevy trucks have that extra tang hanging down. Heck, I even have a shorty pump as a spare sitting on my shelf that has this on it. I know they exist, and I'm pretty sure that these are more popular than those without that extra tang.
You might want to try Autozone... they have a new computer system that shows pictures of all of their parts. I've made friends with the manager at one of our stores and he lets me poke through the screens myself, when I'm looking for mismatched parts. Something to consider.
Rick |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 11/25/2007 4:47 PM |
|
i actually found one that looks like the pic above webby, its for a full size blazer.. only problem is that mine has two outlet metal hoses, this one only has one outlet spot for a screw on hose, plus i would need to buy the fan and all that too, but id do that if it had the two outlet ports. i thought about running two hoses off one outlet... but... i dont think thats a very good idea. i bought the freeze plug already... im back and forth on whether i should beat it in though... im going to continue to look online. and im going to talk to the machine shop guy in town tomorow (even though hes not the most optimistic person to talk to, but hey... he would know.)
wish me luck!!! |
|
|
|
|
webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
|
| 11/25/2007 5:23 PM |
|
Good luck! Let us know what the machine shop guy says.
Rick |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 11/27/2007 4:04 AM |
|
they said to plug it. they used that hole for the earlier model water pumps, and then i guess they decided to not cover up that hole anymore.... the guy at the machine shop told me that there was supposed to be a plug there, so i guess its possible that this plugg came out and caused overheating...?
anyways, i found a pretty small freeze plug its the smallest one i can find... and its too big. is there anything else i can plug it with? maybe something i can get at a hardware store? |
|
|
|
|
SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
|
| 11/27/2007 5:13 AM |
|
| If all else fails, simple tap it with a pipe thread of proper size for bore and screw in a pipe plug with a bit of sealant on it. This is not a big problem. Cast Iron taps well. |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
|
| 11/27/2007 8:54 AM |
|
That's what I would do too.
However, test fit your water pump BEFORE you do this, to make sure that the water pump body won't interfere with it. If it does, you'll have to make sure that the plug sits just under the surface of the plug when you screw it in.
Rick |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 11/28/2007 8:53 PM |
|
| yeah. i plugged it with a very small freeze plug, and it works out pretty good no problems. its just when you have a major water leak coming out of some random hole on your block...without even starting it, you know somethings not right... lol. thanks for the help guys. |
|
|
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 12/03/2007 3:18 PM |
|
ahh ok i got one more question.
truck runs fine and everything, only problem is that when i hit the gas the rpm will drop and then catch up. if the idle didnt drop it would be perfect. this drop in idle isnt enough to shut off the engine, but if you try to get it to shut off you can get it close to shutting off... but it wont ever die. but if i press the gas down like im in a situation where i need to pick up speed real quick,ill hit the gas, the rpms will go down for about a quarter of a sec, and then pick up. it does it regardless of it being warm or cold. (i thought it was timing, tried messing with timing with no luck, and it says in my manual that the timing can't be adjusted,its controlled by computer, so i put it at tdc and run it like that).
any ideas about the crappy throttle response? will the computer eventually just adapt and fix it?
|
|
|
|
|
SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
|
| 12/03/2007 3:51 PM |
|
| you might have a weak/flakey CPS (crank position sensor). I had this problem once and it drove me nutz finding it. The way I found it was by monitoring spark timing in real time via OBD2 port. It showed that timing was taking a dump at idle sometimes and when it did so did RPM. Also in theory a flaky knock sensor could do it too. The ECM calibrate background noise level for it at idle after start but if it is flakey or has a bad connection it could cause spark to go into retard mode. You need to see first if timing is stable or not to narrow search. |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
|
| 12/05/2007 7:51 PM |
|
for some reason it's acting fine now. it doesn't do it anymore. i havent touched anything all i did was drive it a little every day for a week and now it stopped. i've heard of the engine computer systems adapting to problems and everything up to a certian point, dunno if thats why it stopped doing this or not. no check engine light on. i must be alrite.
is it possible on chevys to have trouble codes without the check engine light on? i know fords can.. dunno about chevy. |
|
|
|
|
SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
|
| 12/06/2007 7:23 AM |
|
| Flakey CPS can do just that, not code and act up sometimes. Check connections on knock sensor circuit too
|
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
Onyxmaverick
Bone Stock
Posts:4
|
| 12/08/2007 6:42 PM |
|
quote:
Originally posted by webby4x4
Good luck! Let us know what the machine shop guy says.
Rick
|
|
|
|
|