pmipmatt73
 Street Queen Posts:115

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| 12/22/2007 6:01 PM |
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| 97 k1500. this is the same one |
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SnoMan
 Lift & Lockers Posts:943

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| 12/22/2007 6:37 PM |
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| Flickering light here is the key I think. It suggests you have a voltage problem and with a electronically controlled tranny erratic voltage can cause it to do funny things. Check all your connection in battery and alternator charge circuit and maybe pull alternator and have it load tested. YOu could have a few bad output diodes in it and it is putting out choppy DC with AC spikes in it that is raising cane with electronics in car. |
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pmipmatt73
 Street Queen Posts:115

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| 12/22/2007 6:54 PM |
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| well... i do have a 1000 watt amp and two 12" subs stuffed in the backseat, i used to turn the bass up, and just ignore it whenever my lights would dim at every bass note. obviosly i turn off the bass and everything when im trying to figure out whats wrong with it, and with it off (or on) it does all the things i described above. im leaning torwards the alternator problem just because i gave it hell, but ill check it all out. you think that running the subwoofers damaged my alternator? |
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SnoMan
 Lift & Lockers Posts:943

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| 12/22/2007 7:34 PM |
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| Your subs and amp can fry a alternator. They induce a wilding varying load on alternator that drive regulator nutz. (it was never designed for this kind of load variation) My suggestion is to check/replace alternator and install a second battery and a capacitor bank of a farad or so by amp. This will greatly soften the load on alternator and make it appear more constant Caps will discharge on high output demand cycle and recharge during lows and reflect a far more steady average load on cars system and the light flickering will stop if you do it right. |
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pmipmatt73
 Street Queen Posts:115

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| 12/23/2007 7:40 AM |
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| thanks sno. |
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SnoMan
 Lift & Lockers Posts:943

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| 12/23/2007 8:10 AM |
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| One more thing, you want to feed amp with about 6 ga tops (8 will work) from battery. The whole concept here with a capacitor bank is that you want it to feed the load/draw from amp and it wildly cycles and let batteries top them off during times of low demand and the tiny bit of extra resistance in feed line for battery softens surge loads on cars electrical system and helps smooth out drawn together with caps. With a big amp, power demand can swing from 10 amps to 100 many times a second and no alternator made can keep voltage smooth during that and voltage spikes and blown diodes in alternator can result over time from it. Amps have two power draw ratings, average draw and peak draw for a very short period of time. Your average draw (the sum of high and low demand peaks) is well below peak draw and caps were made to deal with this and no electronic device would be possible without caps (like radio, cell phones or even ECM in a modern car) Rather than using brute force like many try to do, use the laws of physics and electronic principles to do it correctly. |
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pmipmatt73
 Street Queen Posts:115

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| 12/26/2007 2:24 PM |
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ahh well i havent really figured out whats wrong, but i had the alternator checked, and they said that i had a great alternator, but lights still flash, tranny still acts up in overdrive.
if cables are fine...it has to be a ground... right? |
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SnoMan
 Lift & Lockers Posts:943

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| 12/26/2007 2:51 PM |
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| I think is is still a alternator problem. It is load check okay and still have a flakey regulator. The reason I believe this is that the alternator was never designed for the load variation frequency that a high output amp places on it. You could check all connections but I do believe it is in the charging system. Try monitoring alternator output voltage with a meter (analog no digital) or a scope because I feel the problem is there. |
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pmipmatt73
 Street Queen Posts:115

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| 12/26/2007 3:19 PM |
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ok im going to buy one. i have a feeling in my gut that its the alternator, i think its making all the lights "pulsate", just funny how it goes bad just a little while after i rebuild the engine.
would it be safe to take a fat wire and touch it to negative to a grounding spot to eliminate a bad ground problem? i could see if it makes the lights quit flickering.. |
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SnoMan
 Lift & Lockers Posts:943

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| 12/26/2007 8:27 PM |
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| I see no problem with a negative to ground extra test jumper. |
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