Jacob___
Bone Stock
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| 09/04/2001 1:52 PM |
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recently on the way home, on the highway my 5th gear went out. when iwent to put it into 5th it started to grind. all the other gears seem to be ok. i drove the rest of the way home in 4th with no other problems. anybody ever gone through this? what should i do? get it rebuilt, get a new one, if i do get a new one, what kind ? right now i have a 94 wrangler, 4 cyl. 2.5 lit.
thanks......
jacob |
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Rick_W___
Bone Stock
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| 10/26/1998 9:12 PM |
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Where do you live? Would you be willing to pay shipping?
I could probably find you one pretty quickly.
Rick,
On 10/26/98 2:25:02 PM, Adams wrote:
> Im looking for a passenger side door (half steel) for my 98 jeep
> wrangler-If any body has one or knows where i could get one-please respond. |
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Joel___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/22/1998 7:52 PM |
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| On 10/26/98 2:25:02 PM, Adams wrote:
> Im looking for a passenger side door (half steel) for my 98 jeep
> wrangler-If any body has one or knows where i could get one-please respond. I have 2 pair For $400.00 plus shipping.(green and blue)visa, M/C or money order.E-mail me if interested. |
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jody___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/14/1998 2:32 PM |
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On 12/3/98 9:47:04 PM, dave Daley wrote:
> It does`nt sound like carb to me, but it could be. Have you already checked all of the ignition components? If it is only doing its thing when it warms up then maybe the choke is to blame? When you try to diagnose the problem, be very systematic, change one thing at atime then test it. That way you will know what it is when you do get it fixed. Sorry I could`nt help more, but I need to know what you have already tryed in order to narrow it down. Jody
My 84 Cherekee 4 cyl wont run right. when i first start it it will run good
> for about 2 mile
miles. Can run through the gears at full power. Then it
> will loose power and hardly run.
I tried turning up the idle screw and it
> will only idle for a short time than stall. The 84
only has a module and
> no computer. Is this a module or carb problem? |
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Curt___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/16/1998 9:46 PM |
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On 12/14/98 2:31:41 PM, Jody wrote:
> On 12/3/98 9:47:04 PM, dave Daley wrote:
> It does`nt sound like carb to
> me, but it could be. Have you already checked all of the ignition
> components? If it is only doing its thing when it warms up then maybe the
> choke is to blame? When you try to diagnose the problem, be very
> systematic, change one thing at atime then test it. That way you will know
> what it is when you do get it fixed. Sorry I could`nt help more, but I
> need to know what you have already tryed in order to narrow it down.
> Jody
My 84 Cherekee 4 cyl wont run right. when i first start it it
> will run good
> for about 2 mile
miles. Can run through the gears at
> full power. Then it
> will loose power and hardly run.
I tried turning
> up the idle screw and it
> will only idle for a short time than stall.
> The 84
only has a module and
> no computer. Is this a module or carb problem?
I had a similar sounding problem when I was installing a Jacobs ignition on my CJ-7. I started unplugging the different plugs in the engine compartment, one by one and checking for a bad connector. The plug that comes out of the distributor was fully corroded. A little cleaning and she runs like a top. |
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jonathan___
Bone Stock
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| 01/04/1999 11:50 AM |
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| You can use up to a 30" tire with no lift on a YJ, You can also use 31" tires if you address wheel back spacing problems. A 31" tire will rub on the rear half of the leaf spring at a full turn. Install rims with the proper backspacing, or adjust the steering stops on your steering knuckles, by using a few washers. At full suspension compression you will get a slight fender flare rub with 31" tires without a lift, but it is such a slight amount and quite liveable. |
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Taylor_Johnson___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/05/1999 6:06 PM |
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On 1/1/99 12:11:20 PM, Aaron Tarpine wrote:
> Right now I have the stock size P215/75 R15 tires on my Jeep. I plan to
> put on 235`s in the near by future. My question is that since the new
> tires will take up another inch of wheel well space, should I get a lift
> and what kind and size? I mostly stay on the trails and I haven`t run
> across any real obstacles "yet." I plan to go on some the Jamborees, I
> haven`t yet since I just bought it. I don`t know if I`m gonna need a lift
> so I can gain the wheel well spacing back, or if I really shouldn`t have
> any real problems getting over and through most problems I would come across.
I have a 93 with 29 10.50 15 Thornbirds with A/E 589 rims and no lift and with the stock bump stops
at a full axle flex the tire does push up the stock fender flares some. But no scrubing at full turn lock.
Taylor Johnson |
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Rick_W___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/11/1999 12:23 AM |
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Dave,
Is any of the threaded rod exposed above or below the nut?
Rick.
On 1/9/99 1:46:09 PM, Dave wrote:
> Hi Guys,
I am in the process of putting one inch Daystar Body Lift on
> my 92 YJ. I got all the body mount bolts loose but the 2 front ones (one on
> each side) under the main section just kept on spinning. Did I break the
> weld? What do I do now? Please help!!
Thanks!
Dave
92 YJ, 3.5"
> Superlift, 1.25" Con-ferr Shackles, 1" Daystar Bodylift (sitting in the
> garage)
35" Mud Rovers |
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Rick_W___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/11/1999 12:27 AM |
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Fatboy,
Are you looking to COVERT your smog pump to an air compressor or just replace it with an air compressor?
rick
On 1/3/99 12:06:07 PM, Fatboy wrote:
> I am looking for info on exchangeing my smog pump for an air compressor. (
> just got my last smog cert.) Thanks in advance |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/13/1999 12:19 AM |
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On 1/11/99 12:23:05 AM, Rick W wrote:
> Dave,
Is any of the threaded rod exposed above or below the
> nut?
Rick.
Hi Rick,
The bolts (threaded rod) is exposed above the nut. There is an access hole where I can see the bolt sticking out. There is also a square weld in this area which hold the welded nut. I think I broke the weld on the nut inside this square weld. I started drill the bolt out but didn`t get too much progress. I would have to drill about a good 3". I am only at 1 1/2 " w/ lots of worn bits and almost whole day worth of work!!!!
Thanks!
Dave |
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Phil___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/25/1999 6:47 AM |
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| I was having the same problem with my 84 jeep cherokee, I have the 2.8 v6. The only thing I did to it was change out the fuel filter and the air filter. That seemed to do the trick. Also you might check you ignition timeing. |
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Scott___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 02/09/1999 1:48 PM |
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On 1/1/99 12:11:20 PM, Aaron Tarpine wrote:
> Right now I have the stock size P215/75 R15 tires on my Jeep. I plan to
> put on 235`s in the near by future. My question is that since the new
> tires will take up another inch of wheel well space, should I get a lift
> and what kind and size? I mostly stay on the trails and I haven`t run
> across any real obstacles "yet." I plan to go on some the Jamborees, I
> haven`t yet since I just bought it. I don`t know if I`m gonna need a lift
> so I can gain the wheel well spacing back, or if I really shouldn`t have
> any real problems getting over and through most problems I would come across.
I also have a 94 Wrangler, on which I have installed the 235`s. With the stock aluminum Jeep 15x7 rims, I`ve had no problems without having to lift at all. |
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Rick_W___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 02/27/1999 4:00 AM |
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Shane,
Short answer, Nope. You have a lot of lift on a 2 wheel drive rig. Here`s what I would do. First, I would get some blocks with a taper to them,
probably about degrees *check with your local 4-wheel drive shop first though*. If that doesn`t do it, you will probably have to go with a
CV Joint style drive shaft. They can get pretty expensive, but it should keep you from tearing up the tranny and get rid of
your vibrations.
Godd luck,
Rick W
On 2/17/99 8:26:56 PM, shane miguez wrote:
> i am familiar with lowering a transfer case on a 4 wheel drive to eliminate
> driveline vibration after lifting
is it possible to lower the tranny in
> the same manner on a 2 wheel drive after lift
i have a 2wheel drive
> cherokee with approx 4 1/2 inches on the rear and experienced drive line
> vibration
the transmission sprung a leak and blew,and the dealership
> attributed it to the lift
i have 1 1/2" add aleafs and three inch blocks
> w/o taper
can i lower the tranny
please reply
thanks |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 03/16/1999 10:30 AM |
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On 1/9/99 1:46:09 PM, Dave wrote:
> Hi Guys,
I am in the process of putting one inch Daystar Body Lift on
> my 92 YJ. I got all the body mount bolts loose but the 2 front ones (one on
> each side) under the main section just kept on spinning. Did I break the
> weld? What do I do now? Please help!!
Thanks!
Dave
92 YJ, 3.5"
> Superlift, 1.25" Con-ferr Shackles, 1" Daystar Bodylift (sitting in the
> garage)
35" Mud Rovers |
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david___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 03/16/1999 1:01 PM |
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Casio,
I had a similar delimma. I had a 1970 CJ5, all original (even the shocks). I just put a SuperLift 2.5" lift on it about two weeks ago. I also changed the wheels and the tires. Now I am running 31X10.50 BFG`s with 15X7 wheels. It turns out that the rear springs were saging about 2 inches, so I actually got four inches of lift in the rear. I am having no problems and have even taken the Jeep on a trail rated 8 out of 10. The only thing is that the alignment shop cannot adjust the camber and caster. The tires will be slightly wedged, but I hear that this is common on many Jeeps that have been lifted. Many have suggested to me to rotate the tires more often. It shouldn`t be a problem. My web page has some pics of my Jeep before the project, and within a few weeks, I`ll have the after project pictures up. It`s http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/7070 I hope this helps. |
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casiobaley___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 03/25/1999 11:16 PM |
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On 3/16/99 1:00:51 PM, David wrote:
> Casio,
I had a similar delimma. I had a 1970 CJ5, all original (even
> the shocks). I just put a SuperLift 2.5" lift on it about two weeks ago.
> I also changed the wheels and the tires. Now I am running 31X10.50 BFG`s
> with 15X7 wheels. It turns out that the rear springs were saging about 2
> inches, so I actually got four inches of lift in the rear. I am having no
> problems and have even taken the Jeep on a trail rated 8 out of 10. The
> only thing is that the alignment shop cannot adjust the camber and caster.
> The tires will be slightly wedged, but I hear that this is common on many
> Jeeps that have been lifted. Many have suggested to me to rotate the tires
> more often. It shouldn`t be a problem. My web page has some pics of my
> Jeep before the project, and within a few weeks, I`ll have the after
> project pictures up. It`s http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/7070 I hope this helps. |
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casiobaley___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 03/25/1999 11:20 PM |
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david----thanks for the advice-----it was a big help
casiobaley@aol.com
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/25/1999 8:48 AM |
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On 8/5/99 1:22:51 AM, Pichelman wrote:
> Ok, in order to stop my leek caused by broken valve cover bolts i took off
> the block of the engine... So, as long as im this far, what can i do to the
> engine to get more power out of it?? I figure if im done this much for
> something as silly as an oil leek i might as well make it worth my time.
> (oh yeah, i decied to fix this leek after my jeep caught on fire, not
> fun.)
Thanks!
Kevin Pichelman
Kevin,
Depends how much money you want to spend! Talk to the machine shop about
having a valve job done, or possibly rebuilding the entire head (depending on
it`s current condition -- especially since you`ve had a fire! Yikes!).
Also consider putting a Weber carb on instead of the Carter BBD.
Mo |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/25/1999 9:33 AM |
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On 8/11/99 10:43:10 AM, Thom T. wrote:
> Hi,
A friedn of mine recently bought an Auburn Pro limited slip and
> says it`s as good as a locker, but doesn`t have the bad characteristics of
> one. He`s running his is a `78 Chevy full size with a ratty motor and say`s
> he can`t break it loose. I have an 81 CJ7 with original 258. It is used
> mainly for the trails and we have lots of rocks here. I hardly ever drive
> it on the street, that is what my 4 Runner is for. I was about to get a
> locker (Detroit) but am now thinking about this new Auburn Pro. I also want
> to do one of those Rock Crawling Championships next year and my friend
> swears that an Auburn Pro is better than a locker. I never really drive my
> rig on the streeets so I don`t care about the handling... My friend also
> said that you won`t break any axle parts with a Posi, but I plan on
> instaling 1 piece axles, new R&P`s, etc. Any thoughts??? What`s better?
Thanks.
I have to disagree with your friend. Especially if this is an off-road dedicated
vehicle.
The auburn, while a good unit, is still a posi. It will slip.
The Detroit is probably more expensive, but it is a positive locking differential.
You can get 100% traction to one wheel. You may be able to put a lot of your
power to one wheel with the posi, but not 100%.
Also, if you`re considering some of the competitions/hardcore stuff, many clubs
REQUIRE a locker -- not a posi, but a locker.
Just slapped my $0.02 on the table.
Mo |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/31/1999 1:09 PM |
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On 8/26/99 10:22:15 PM, Andy Hill wrote:
> Are reverse cut gears in a dana 35 a good idea? I am considering a leaf
> over to clear 35" tires on a `94 wrangler sahara. I know I have to get a
> SYE kit, but wouldn`t it also help to just turn the axle upside down to
> gain pinion angle, and put in reverse gears? Discussion anyone?
Ummm...no. Reasons:
1. Flipping the axle upside down will fry the bearings, unless you have quite a bit of work done to reroute the oil somehow. It can be done, but it`s really not worth the effort.
2. Dana 44s that are nearly bolt in are relatively inexpensive. Scouts and some SJ, XJ and MJ Jeeps and even some Broncos (Ford 9") have housings that are nearly the same width as the rear in your YJ. Gearing may need to be changed, but still better than the 35.
3. Not even sure if reverse cut gears are available for the 35, or if they`d fit if they are available.
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/31/1999 1:09 PM |
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On 8/26/99 10:22:15 PM, Andy Hill wrote:
> Are reverse cut gears in a dana 35 a good idea? I am considering a leaf
> over to clear 35" tires on a `94 wrangler sahara. I know I have to get a
> SYE kit, but wouldn`t it also help to just turn the axle upside down to
> gain pinion angle, and put in reverse gears? Discussion anyone?
Ummm...no. Reasons:
1. Flipping the axle upside down will fry the bearings, unless you have quite a bit of work done to reroute the oil somehow. It can be done, but it`s really not worth the effort.
2. Dana 44s that are nearly bolt in are relatively inexpensive. Scouts and some SJ, XJ and MJ Jeeps and even some Broncos (Ford 9") have housings that are nearly the same width as the rear in your YJ. Gearing may need to be changed, but still better than the 35.
3. Not even sure if reverse cut gears are available for the 35, or if they`d fit if they are available.
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Hank___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/31/1999 9:35 PM |
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When you say fuel line cable...are you refering to the throttle cable attached to the accelerator (gas pedal)?
Is it also running in from the vent? It sounds like a windshield leak from body twist...the belt rail above the front windshield that holds the soft top down.
The windshield frame flexes and the belt rail turns up loosening it. Water then makes its way in.
Reach behind the speakers grilles in the dash the next rain when you see water in your floor pans.
Is it damp?
Hank
On 8/26/99 10:40:29 PM, Aaron wrote:
> I put a 2" body lift on my `94 YJ. Ever since it has been put on,
> everytime it rains and it`s parked for a time, water runs into the cab
> through the fuel line cable(which I believe is streched out from running
> wires in through it) and in from the vent fan which is located on the
> passenger side. A significant amount runs in. I was wondering how I can
> prevent water from coming in. I also can hear water, I guess in the fan
> still when I turn. Has anyone else had this problem with body lifts? I
> can drive through water over my bumper with out a problem, but I can`t
> leave it in the rain. |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/01/1999 7:21 PM |
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the Jeep commando ran a dana 44 in the rear `70-`73
International Scotts ran a heavy axle about the same width as the CJ`s
On 9/1/99 4:10:12 PM, Jason Austin wrote:
> Are there any vehicles that came with Dana 60 or Dana 44 axles that are
> roughly the same width as CJ axles?
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/14/1999 10:16 PM |
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On 9/14/99 6:06:46 PM, PAUL wrote:
> I would like to know if a 80 to 86 CJ nose will fit on My 87 Wrangler frame
All information I have seen would say that you can switch to a cj nose. The frame is the same and so is the body tub. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/15/1999 11:38 AM |
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On 9/14/99 10:15:51 PM, Carl wrote:
> On 9/14/99 6:06:46 PM, PAUL wrote:
> I would like to know if a 80 to 86
> CJ nose will fit on My 87 Wrangler frame
All information I have seen
> would say that you can switch to a cj nose. The frame is the same and so
> is the body tub.
Yep. Easiest way is to swap whole nose (hood, fenders and grill). The hood/fenders are different length between YJ and CJ.
Rodney Lewis has a good writeup of this and he mixed and matched
a CJ grill with YJ fenders and hood.
See http://jeepskate.4x4.org for his buildup.
Mo |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/21/1999 10:16 PM |
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I have been told that the axle will fit but the wheels will stick out past the fenders for a real wide stance. the 79 should have dana 44 front and rear, if the transmission is a auto it is a hydra-Matic 400 butted up to a Warner Quadra-Trac. The quadra-trac is the only transfer case to fit that transmission without an extra adapter. the power steering i`m not sure of. I think the fittings are different but the power steering put off of your old engine from your cj7 should fit into the brackets.
If anyone wants to try something like this, I am parting out a `77 j10. all info is on the forsale board of this site.
Carl
On 9/21/99 6:50:26 PM, Bill wrote:
> Hi, i would like some info on the 1979 J-10 truck. It has a 360
> engine/auto trans. I want to know what axles, transmission, transfer case
> and power steering gear box it has. I am interested in it mainly for the
> engine and axles and would like to know the dimensions of the axles for
> possible swap into my 1980 CJ7 w/304/4spd trans/pwr steering. Does it use
> the same steering box? THANKS!! Please email me if you like. |
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roger___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/23/1999 3:02 PM |
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On 8/26/99 10:22:15 PM, Andy Hill wrote:
> Are reverse cut gears in a dana 35 a good idea? I am considering a leaf
> over to clear 35" tires on a `94 wrangler sahara. I know I have to get a
> SYE kit, but wouldn`t it also help to just turn the axle upside down to
> gain pinion angle, and put in reverse gears? Discussion anyone?
Never heard of reverse cut Dana 35. In general, reverse cut gears in the rear are weaker than standard cut in the rear. this has to do with the gear teeth shape being able to withstand more force when pushed in on direction than the other. If you really want reverse cut (for better driveline angle), you need to step up to a beefier axle. Assuming you`ll be doing some serious 4-wheeling, my recommendation is a reverse cut Dana 60 or a standard cut Dana 44.
35" tires and a Dana 35 are not a good idea. Period. Oh, and you generally don`t get reverse cut by flipping an axle housing upside down. This can offset the pinion to one side and causes internal lubrication problems. |
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mr.clean___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/24/1999 10:21 PM |
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| On 9/1/99 4:10:12 PM, Jason Austin wrote:
> Are there any vehicles that came with Dana 60 or Dana 44 axles that are
> roughly the same width as CJ axles?
Jason; Early Scouts,Broncos,and Wagoneers used 44`s front and rear.They are also roughly the same width. |
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Ben___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/30/1999 2:07 AM |
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| as far as fitting those monster dana 44`s under your cj, this is by far not your easy task. the front is the big problem, being the differential hitting on the frame rail. i have a buddy that did this for racing. we ended up outboarding the springs.(putting the spring hangers on the out side of the frame rails). also where do you plan on driving this rig? not on the road! the tiers will stick out too far. and if 4x4ing is in your future you`d better live in the desert. youwill most likley will not fit thru the trails. i live in the northwest(washington). this is the case for us here. in fact they have put a maximum width requirement on our trails. i hope this helps you make your choice. |
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Ben___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/30/1999 2:18 AM |
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| YES, YOUR IN LUCK THE AXLES FROM A SCOUT TRAVLE-ALL ARE ABOUT AS CLOSE AS YOUR GOING TO GET. THEY ARE ONLY FOUR INCHES WIDER OVERALL. THEY CAME WITH A DANA 60 REAR & DANA 44 FRONT. WHAT`S COOL IS IT`S THE SAME BOLT PATTERN AS YOUR JEEP, 5 ON 5.5. GOOD LUCK ON FINDING ONE THEIR NOT EASY TO LOCATE. |
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DAVE___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/14/1999 12:17 AM |
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Just a SWAG...My 92 was having fuel delivery problems (was difficult or impossible to start until it completely died one day)--ended up being a relay for the fuel pump (?). Can`t remember specifically, but give that a try.
Dave
On 10/13/99 3:52:18 PM, Aaron wrote:
> My Jeep after it is warmed up has no fuel pressure. It`s at the
> mechanics now and they have no idea what`s wrong. They`ve tried the fuel
> pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and they are still having no
> luck. If you have any ideas of what it could be please respond. I made my
> email address available for responses too. Thank you. |
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Aaron___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/15/1999 3:27 PM |
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Well, I have the answer. Apparently I`m a luck enough guy where I was offroading, and I landed on a rock that pressed on my skid plate enough that over time the edge cut through the fuel pressure return hose and cut off fuel that was returned to the tank which also cooled the pump.
On 10/14/99 12:16:30 AM, Dave wrote:
> Just a SWAG...My 92 was having fuel delivery problems (was difficult or
> impossible to start until it completely died one day)--ended up being a
> relay for the fuel pump (?). Can`t remember specifically, but give that a
> try.
Dave
On 10/13/99 3:52:18 PM, Aaron wrote:
> My Jeep after it
> is warmed up has no fuel pressure. It`s at the
> mechanics now and they
> have no idea what`s wrong. They`ve tried the fuel
> pump, fuel pressure
> regulator, fuel filter, and they are still having no
> luck. If you have
> any ideas of what it could be please respond. I made my
> email address
> available for responses too. Thank you. |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/28/1999 8:25 AM |
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can you see any daylight around the door. depending on where you can see the light coming through depends on what needs adjusted.
On 11/25/99 8:00:01 PM, Ralph Sargent wrote:
> I have a new TJ hard top and it has a air leak around the passenger door
> (full door). I`ve been back to the dealer 3 times and it still is not
> fixed. Any sugestions. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/30/1999 9:51 AM |
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You can loosen the bolts that hold the door to the hinge and adjust the door yourself. If there is a visible leak (like Carl mentions) you need to move the door that direction (duh).
It`s not too tough. All you need is the appropriate size Torx head for your socket wrench. A friend helps.
One warning: I`d bet they paint the doors with the hinges installed, so it may be a visible repair. If you can get the dealer to do it, you may convince them to touch the paint up also.
Mo
On 11/28/99 8:24:33 AM, Carl wrote:
> can you see any daylight around the door. depending on where you can see
> the light coming through depends on what needs adjusted.
On 11/25/99
> 8:00:01 PM, Ralph Sargent wrote:
> I have a new TJ hard top and it has a
> air leak around the passenger door
> (full door). I`ve been back to the
> dealer 3 times and it still is not
> fixed. Any sugestions. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/30/1999 12:15 PM |
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On 11/29/99 10:57:43 AM, Jeff wrote:
> What is a good motor swap for an 86 commanche with a 2.8 3spd auto 4x4?
Chevy 4.3L V6 (From chevy S10, maybe Camaro) |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 12/17/1999 2:29 PM |
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It`s a trim package, kind of like the Eddie Bauer Exploder.
Not positive on where it is in comparison to Limited, but the Orvis designation is only a trim package.
The 4.0 liter engines will last a long while with basic maintenance. Regular oil changes and plugs and you`ll easily last 100K+ miles.
Not too familiar with the 5.2 liter V8s, but I`ve seen a fair share with 100K+ miles still running strong. Even seen a 95 with 250K (yep) miles for sale on a dealer lot.
Often just look at any available maintenance records, and look at the underside for off-road scrapes. It`s probably in fine condition.
Good luck.
Mo
On 12/17/99 1:10:59 PM, Andy wrote:
> Can anyone tell me anything about the ORVIS edition. I found a 95 with
> 33,000 miles. Looks really good but I want to make sure it is reliable and
> will last a while. |
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Aaron___
Bone Stock
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| 12/17/1999 2:58 PM |
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| The Orvis Edition is a more luxury package then the Limited. In the Grand version, it came with a custom interior and other specialties. More then likely this vehicle has never seen an off road trail, being that it costs more then the Limited. The driver has put on very few miles so it should last you a very long time.
On 12/17/99 1:10:59 PM, Andy wrote:
> Can anyone tell me anything about the ORVIS edition. I found a 95 with
> 33,000 miles. Looks really good but I want to make sure it is reliable and
> will last a while. |
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Ted___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/12/2000 1:24 PM |
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| On 11/24/99 9:43:19 PM, Jeffrey Houston wrote:
> I`m searching for help on a trans swap in an 86 commanche 4x4. I want to
> change the 3spd. auto to a 4spd auto. can this be done and if so, what
> model truck can I find the trans in. A motor swap is not out of the
> question if neccessary. Which motors will swap out for the 2.8 if I keep
> the 3spd. auto?
My 87 Commanche has 4.0 liter with 4 speed auto. I don`t know how easy the swap would be though. |
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jack___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/06/2001 12:11 AM |
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jacob at 9/4/2001 1:52:23 PM
recently on the way home, on the highway my 5th gear went out. when iwent to put it into 5th it started to grind. all the other gears seem to be ok. i drove the rest of the way home in 4th with no other problems. anybody ever gone through this? what should i do? get it rebuilt, get a new one, if i do get a new one, what kind ? right now i have a 94 wrangler, 4 cyl. 2.5 lit.
thanks......
jacob SAME THING HAPPENED TO MY 94 2.5 EXCEPT I DIDN'T HEAR ANY GRINDING.
THE JEEP JUST DOESN'T HAVE 5TH GEAR ANYMORE. I HAVEN'T HAD ANY LUCK WITH ANY ANSWERS. LIKE YOU, I DON'T KNOW WHETHER TO TRY AND FIND ONE IN A JUNK YARD OR TO TRY AND GET IT REPAIRED. IF YOU FIND ANYTHING OUT PLEASE LET ME KNOW |
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LARRY___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/22/2001 3:45 AM |
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------------Jacob
My 95 2.5l speed has done the same thing. All other gears are ok, 5th gear is same as neutral. I don't know whats is happening ?
Larry
jacob at 9/4/2001 1:52:23 PM
recently on the way home, on the highway my 5th gear went out. when iwent to put it into 5th it started to grind. all the other gears seem to be ok. i drove the rest of the way home in 4th with no other problems. anybody ever gone through this? what should i do? get it rebuilt, get a new one, if i do get a new one, what kind ? right now i have a 94 wrangler, 4 cyl. 2.5 lit.
thanks......
jacob |
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Warren___
Bone Stock
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| 11/27/2001 3:58 AM |
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Well guy heres the deal.. My Jeep did the same thing so I dug into it.. You prob have have a split bearing on the front side of the transmission.. You transmission has 2 gear clusters.. One on top and one on the bottom.. There is a retainin ring on the bearing on the bottom cluster and thats where the bearing has split horizontly... Your going to band up your gears a little if you dont get it fixed... The bearing cost about 50$ and if your decent with a wrench you can change it youself.. Get a manual from christler. It cost about 100$ but its worth it.. Good luck.. Have any questions just ask.. Warren
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Larry at 11/22/2001 3:45:08 AM
------------Jacob
My 95 2.5l speed has done the same thing. All other gears are ok, 5th gear is same as neutral. I don't know whats is happening ?
Larry
jacob at 9/4/2001 1:52:23 PM
recently on the way home, on the highway my 5th gear went out. when iwent to put it into 5th it started to grind. all the other gears seem to be ok. i drove the rest of the way home in 4th with no other problems. anybody ever gone through this? what should i do? get it rebuilt, get a new one, if i do get a new one, what kind ? right now i have a 94 wrangler, 4 cyl. 2.5 lit.
thanks......
jacob |
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Bob___
Bone Stock
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| 04/16/2002 10:31 PM |
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jacob at 9/4/2001 1:52:23 PM
recently on the way home, on the highway my 5th gear went out. when iwent to put it into 5th it started to grind. all the other gears seem to be ok. i drove the rest of the way home in 4th with no other problems. anybody ever gone through this? what should i do? get it rebuilt, get a new one, if i do get a new one, what kind ? right now i have a 94 wrangler, 4 cyl. 2.5 lit.
thanks......
jacob
sounds like your 5th gear sycho may be worn out preventing you form shifting to that gear...if thats what it is, a rebuild can cost a few bucks you would not want to spend. i dont know what it could be if thats not the problem but ask a trans shop see what they say...the 94 wrangler with the four popper came with an AX-5 tranny if the price is too high too rebuild. you can probobly pick one up at the jusk yard for around $200-$400 depending on the condition. |
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