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Matty
Bone Stock
Posts:12
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| 10/08/2006 10:38 PM |
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Ok need a little advice, i absolutly hate the TJ steering set-up (its friggin JUNK!)I continually have to re-set my (Drag link) steering wheel and have on off death wobble that has been through the gauntlet of possible repairs, replacements, alignments and balances, i would like to do a Hydro assist and high steer or crossover steering set-up and have a Question can a ball joint Dana44 be converted to a kingpin style 44 knuckle? if so does the inner C need to be replaced as well as the outter? (i assume it does), Second has anyone played with the Tera-flex high steer kit in unison with a hydro assist ram? thanx! i know Rick! but i am not Getting a toyota!LOL
Matty |
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Matty and Denise
Switchback Designs
"GET OFF THE ROAD" |
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primetimek5
Lift & Lockers
Posts:537
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| 10/09/2006 5:57 AM |
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| CROSSOVERSTEERING & HYDRO WOULD BE THE WAY TO GO.
go to tractor supply for your ram & hoses. really cheap & good quality |
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rick p. |
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Matty
Bone Stock
Posts:12
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| 10/09/2006 6:47 AM |
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Really! wouldnt thought! about that place for that but i see how! huh! so i take it you are tapping your steer pump for this set up? also is there a PSI on the ram i should be looking for? or are they standard thanx
Matty |
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Matty and Denise
Switchback Designs
"GET OFF THE ROAD" |
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SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
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| 10/09/2006 12:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Matty
Ok need a little advice, i absolutly hate the TJ steering set-up (its friggin JUNK!)I continually have to re-set my (Drag link) steering wheel and have on off death wobble that has been through the gauntlet of possible repairs, replacements, alignments and balances, i would like to do a Hydro assist and high steer or crossover steering set-up and have a Question can a ball joint Dana44 be converted to a kingpin style 44 knuckle? if so does the inner C need to be replaced as well as the outter? (i assume it does), Second has anyone played with the Tera-flex high steer kit in unison with a hydro assist ram? thanx! i know Rick! but i am not Getting a toyota!LOL
Matty
THe ram assit will not cure death wooble. It is not aligned correctly regardless of how many times it was done. You cannot use stock setting ona lifted truck and if you keep using them you will continue to have your problem. Granted loose linkages can make it worse but if frontend was aligned correctly, it would not shake. What is your current caster, camber and toe in and what size tires and rims and offset do you have? |
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primetimek5
Lift & Lockers
Posts:537
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| 10/11/2006 5:33 AM |
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| i had the wooble in my blazer & did x over w/ w/ assy. hydro steering.
no more wooble. do you think the hydro provided + feed back?
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rick p. |
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SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
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| 10/11/2006 3:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by primetimek5
i had the wooble in my blazer & did x over w/ w/ assy. hydro steering.
no more wooble. do you think the hydro provided + feed back?
When a front end is dynamically stabilty (properly aligned) it takes little effort to keep it on course but if it is unstable using brute force to stabilize it is only masking the true problem. I little to fix problem at source rather than trying to find a big enough bandaid to cover it up. |
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Matty
Bone Stock
Posts:12
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| 10/13/2006 12:02 PM |
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| I have an 04 Rubicon, w/ an RE 5.5 /custom long arm kit, dana 60 rear stock Rubi front 44 and am running 15x10" rims with 3.75 backspacing on 35" parnelli jones dirt grips, i have a big daddy tie rod, stock drak link and drop pitman arm Jeeps have a set castor and camber i didnt get a reading on (its not zero'd out tho) and toe is 1/8" in, i have replaced the ball joints, drak link and tie rod ends, seering stabilyzer and its been balanced and aligned twice since the problems to 4x4 spec (not stock specs), i even replaced and upgraded the mount bolts and bushings in my RE trac bar, swapped tires, hubs are fine and still have a death wobble between 35-45mph, Toys by troy has a crossover steering system i have been eyeing but its pricy, i also have a Teraflex high steer knuckle i can fab off of but i am at a loss, now i know why i built Nissans for so long! lol |
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Matty and Denise
Switchback Designs
"GET OFF THE ROAD" |
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SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
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| 10/13/2006 7:43 PM |
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| Matty, for starters you have too much toe and likley not enough camber (which is tuff to adjust on a solid axle) as the tires and offset wheels change the load center relative to axle pivots which plays a big roll on over all stabilty. You likely need more positive caster (top of axle pivot center line tipped back toward rear of car) because typicaly with lifts they tend to go neutral or negative caster to lessen ujoint angle on front differentail pinion yoke but this increases instabilty when you do this. What should you have? I am guessing about 1 degree positive camber on driver side and about 1.5 degrees positive or a bit less on passanger side (you always load pasenger side with a bit more) On Caster you should have 4 to 5 degress of positive caster and posibaly a bit more and toe if front end is tight shoot for 1/16th to 3/32's max. Right now in theory you have about 600 feet of side scrub force aplyied to front end per mile of travel (each tire tries to move inward 300 feet per mile) and this cause stress to build up in a big tire that can add to tendacy to shake as it squrims and try to scrubs and side slip some. Granted there is some tendancy for wheel to tip back a bit and the reason for toe to begin with but this is too much for your setup and is making matter worse. Did I loose you? |
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Matty
Bone Stock
Posts:12
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| 10/15/2006 8:11 PM |
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| Nope!! thanks, the castor was brought to my attention by one of the Pro Buggy guys here and its our last try to bring it back a degree or so as you described, Really appreciate the advice i'll let you know the result. the other thing i noticed is there is a remote possability that my front passenger side tube of the axle is bent it appears that the inner C is off, (by looks and straight edges) but havent checked it yet out of the rig either. thanx a ton! |
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Matty and Denise
Switchback Designs
"GET OFF THE ROAD" |
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SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
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| 10/15/2006 10:33 PM |
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| Something I might add too is that when you use oversized tires it actually weakens axles and reduces their rated load capacities and makes the try to flex more (hence reason for a bit of positve camber) and easier to bend because between the offset wheel and the shift in load center relative to axle housing, pivoits and bearings increases the stress on them a good bit with same static load vs with stock tires and rims with same load. This is something to remember with you play hard of road because not only is there the axle shaft to worry about with big tires but the whole assembly itself as well. While stock does not look as impressive to some, the axles will take a lot more beating in this configuration without failure. Back in the early 70's when I was young and dumb so to speak I have a 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 that I played very hard with it. I used to chase/race diry bikes through Texas desert whie stationed there in military spending some time airborne on ruff terrain while chasing them and it landed well too with factory optional HD suspension front and rear and it was stock with factory split rims and 32 inch 750/16 10 ply tires. Never broke it or had front end problems or funny tire wear. Back then 4x4 P/U's were very very rare and still proving their worth in some areas. They could get me in the turns but the butt was mine on the straighter sections. Had a lot of fun doing it and got some strange looks of disbelief at times too. 1972 was the last year before emissions realy cut their power. Oh the good old days! That was one tuff old truck and fun to drive. Time to get of my soap box. |
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