Ted___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/01/1999 10:16 AM |
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| Does anyone make prefabed weld or bolt on brackets for Dana 44 front from a Bronco to fit under a Cherokee. |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
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| 04/12/1999 9:56 PM |
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On 4/12/99 4:17:24 PM, caw wrote:
> On 4/7/99 10:13:11 PM, wrote:
> You have absolutely no lift of any kind
> at all? What year is it?
Sorry, should of included it in the original
> post. I have 98Tj. I was just off-roading this weekend. I had the wheels
> stuffed as much as I could and no problems. If I had disconnects, I would
> of rubbed some.
The TJ`s also came with bigger tires and more wheel well space then the YJ. |
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Aaron___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 04/29/1999 11:54 AM |
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| You`ll still be producing the same amount of HP and all if that`s what you mean. The only thing you`ll sacrafice is is your MPG which will definitely drop. If you want a few extra HP buy a K&N Air Filter which will help you out some. You can try a performance exhaust also, but I read in a test that the Gibson Cat-Back did not make a difference in HP increase. SplitFire Platinum Plugs, not the regular ones and their performance wire kit will also help a little bit.
On 4/29/99 1:13:30 AM, jake wrote:
> I was wondering how much power I would have if I put 31x10.50`s
on my
> wrangler. Which is a 4 cylinder, with no lift. Would it be worth it,
How
> would it do on the highway as well as in the city. Would I have to have any
> modifictions done?
All opinions please.
THANKS U GUYS!! |
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barnes___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 04/30/1999 10:05 AM |
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From what i`ve seen, the tube bumpers are prone to rust...i`d hesitate to drill any new holes in em.
ConFerr makes brackets to mount lights on these type bumpers. (you can get ConFerr products from
Dick Cepeck) if you do drill the holes, makes sure you protect the metal somehow.
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Aaron___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 05/03/1999 8:11 PM |
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I actually made special brackets for the lights out of half inch aluminum. They bolt into place using the tow hooks. My tube bumpers won`t rust because I ordered the aluminum ones from the factory, not steel. If anyone is interested in the dimensions for the bracket let me know and I`ll email you a copy of my design.
On 4/21/99 7:53:48 AM, Aaron wrote:
> I ordered a set of KC Daylighters for my 94 Wrangler. I replaced the
> factory bumper with double tubes. Has anyone here put auxillary lights
> onto tube bumpers, or will I have to put my factory one back on? I think
> my brother has skiny enough arms to reach into the tube, but I don`t know
> if he`ll be able to reach where I want the lights placed. Let me know what
> you guys think.
Aaron |
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Mike___
Bone Stock
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| 05/17/1999 11:06 PM |
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I lost the 5th gear two different times. Mechanic said the snap ring that holds the gear on failed.
I know of several other people who had the same problem. Mostly as result of highway (65+mph) driving.
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 05/18/1999 5:59 PM |
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There shouldn`t be too much of a difference moving up to the 235, and there will be a little bit more with the 31". Thats the situation I`m in 215 up to the 31"I would get it done for the fact that both the speedometer and odometer won`t read correctly otherwise.
On 5/17/99 3:09:19 AM, jake wrote:
> I was just wondering if I had to recalibrate the odomiter and all that
> stuff.
For any size of tire. Right now I have 215/75/15 and I`m thinking
> of putting
31/10.50`s with no lift. Would I have to recalibrate for a size
> like 235/75/15.
Thanks a lot!!! |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 06/11/1999 10:22 PM |
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Won`t bolt up to AMC 4. Some Fords. Call Advance Adaptors.
On 6/8/99 2:28:12 PM, weedwacker wrote:
> CURIOUS TO SEE WHAT MOTORS WILL DIRECTLY BOLT UP TO AN ORIGINAL 1950 WILLY
> CJ3A 3 SPEED MANUAL TRANS. HAVE A 151 4 CYL. WILL BELL HOUSING BOLT UP OR
> WILL I HAVE TO PULL MY 56` STUDEBAKER FLAT 6 TO FIND OUT? ANY HELP IS
> APPRICIATED... WEED WACKER OUT. |
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weedwacker___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 06/14/1999 5:53 PM |
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On 6/11/99 10:22:21 PM, wrote:
> Won`t bolt up to AMC 4. Some Fords. Call Advance Adaptors.
what fords will bolt up? is bolt housing different?weedwacker out
On
> 6/8/99 2:28:12 PM, weedwacker wrote:
> CURIOUS TO SEE WHAT MOTORS WILL
> DIRECTLY BOLT UP TO AN ORIGINAL 1950 WILLY
> CJ3A 3 SPEED MANUAL TRANS.
> HAVE A 151 4 CYL. WILL BELL HOUSING BOLT UP OR
> WILL I HAVE TO PULL MY
> 56` STUDEBAKER FLAT 6 TO FIND OUT? ANY HELP IS
> APPRICIATED... WEED WACKER OUT. |
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weedwhacker___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 06/21/1999 2:18 PM |
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| your best bet is to go detoit locker in rear. unbreakable! then put a lockrite in the front. maint is less and saves wear & tear on tires..good luck . most locker work does require axles to be removed out of the carrier housing. |
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weedwacker___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 06/21/1999 2:29 PM |
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| if you lost power, a gear change is prob in order. maybe going up a size in ring gear will offset your excess drag. if you have automatic trans I`d change the fluid as your putting a harder load to maintain power under shifting . if you have a stick.... go with gears and you`ll be back to or better than stock conditions. hint hint . borg warner 8mm nascar plug wires and bosch platinum plugs did wonders for me and my buds to keep the power up to par. rok on:) |
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Kevin___
Bone Stock
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| 07/10/1999 7:18 PM |
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JP magazine just did an article on the detroit gearless locker in their september issue (which is in stores now). They said it performed well off-road, had excellent on-road characteristics compared to other lockers, and was fairly simple to install. They covered a complete install on a Dana 30 front axle. I can also tell you that you will at the very least have to pull the axel shafts and remove the differential carrier from the axel housing. Some models and lockers may also require removal of the ring gear from the diff. I strongly suggest getting a copy of the Jp magazine and reading the article. Better yet buy a subscription (It is an all Jeep magazine). Let me know what happens!
On 6/16/99 10:42:51 AM, David wrote:
> I have a few questions:
1. I have a rear Dana 44 in the rear of my `70
> CJ5 and need to know if it is a 30 spline or a 19 spline. It does have the
> flanged axles (not tapered). Someone told me that any stock rear 44 with
> flanged axles is a 30 spline. Any ideas?
2. Your opinion... would it be
> better to have a Lock Right in the front Dana 27 with 10 splines that I can
> disconnect on snow and slick stuff or in the rear 44?
3. Will I have to
> take out the axles and ring and pinion in either the 27 or 44 to install
> the Lock Right (mine has 4.89 gearing). Someone told me this was a must in
> the 44.
4. Finally, have you heard anything (good or bad) about the new
> Gearless Locker? Compared to the Lock Right or the EZ Locker?
Thanks
> for the help.
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Michael_Vincenty___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/11/1999 4:47 PM |
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You will not be disapointed with the OME lift. I installed one about a year ago on my 90 YJ. The ride is much better than stock. I got 2.5" of lift - enough for my 30" tires. Can ramp 712 on a 20 degree ramp with just swap bar disconnects. Go for it!
On 7/11/99 4:01:26 PM, Pat wrote:
> Has anybody installed the Old Man Emu lift kit on their YJ? I hear it`s
> one of the better kits (ride and articulation-wise) but the price is a
> little steep.
I`m hoping to get feedback from actual users before I
> consider further taking the plunge.
Thanks. |
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Rick___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/17/1999 8:56 PM |
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Hi Red,
The Bosch fuel pump is a good one but there are a lot of other good pumps out there too. Holley makes a really good electric/fuel injection fuel pump.
I find it strange that you`ve gone through 3 pumps though. Is the pump located close to the fuel tank so that it is pushing the fuel instead of trying to suck it? You may also want to check the wiring, it may have a short in it that is causing the pump to die prematurely.
Hope that helps!
Rick
On 7/11/99 11:21:30 PM, red wrote:
> I am on my 3rd electric fuel pump for the after market mopar fuel injection
> for my 1982 cj7 with a six cylinder 258. Anybody know of a better fuel pump
> than the one supplied with the injection kit? I have heard the Bosch fuel
> injection pump is much better, but I need the specifics regarding exactly
> what bosch pump is the one to get. |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/21/1999 12:06 PM |
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On 7/21/99 11:44:21 AM, Michael Mulvey wrote:
> Any advice on what options to get or not get? Is the Dana 44 with trac-loc
> worth looking into? And is going to be cheaper in the long run to buy the
> Dana 44 if raise it, put bigger tires on it, and change the gearing up?
In the long run, it may be cheaper. If you plan on lifting this Jeep and putting
big tires on, the 44 is a much stronger axle than the 35c which is stock. The 35
has a tendency to bend the housing and bust axle shafts.
Let`s look at a 44 from the aftermarket:
Housing: $200
Narrowing housing and axles: $200
Gears [parts and setup] $600
Now you can start looking at bracketry for the TJ...
Get the picture? Cheaper from the factory.
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/22/1999 3:42 PM |
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On 6/8/99 2:28:12 PM, weedwacker wrote:
> CURIOUS TO SEE WHAT MOTORS WILL DIRECTLY BOLT UP TO AN ORIGINAL 1950 WILLY
> CJ3A 3 SPEED MANUAL TRANS. HAVE A 151 4 CYL. WILL BELL HOUSING BOLT UP OR
> WILL I HAVE TO PULL MY 56` STUDEBAKER FLAT 6 TO FIND OUT? ANY HELP IS
> APPRICIATED... WEED WACKER OUT.
Not positive, but I know Pinto motors used to be a pretty popular swap with some of
the earlier CJs. Something like a 2100 [cc?]. Check Moses Ludel`s book or maybe the
Granville King/Willie Worthy book. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/29/1999 9:36 AM |
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> I have a problem with the clutch linkage in my 83 jeep cj7.
It is not
> level It dropped out once while muddin...not too fun. I replace the
> bushings and bellcrank and adjuster and clutch rods. The mounts look ok.
> Anyone know why this might have happen? it has about a 1/4 inch of side to
> side play right now.
Jeff,
You may want to check your motor and transmission mounts. Mudding usually
indicates high(er) rpms, which could torque the motor. Play in the mounts
could lead to insufficient pressure to keep the linkage together. |
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weedwacker___
Bone Stock
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weedwacker___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 07/31/1999 4:44 PM |
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| hey mo, where can i find this book? do you have any further info on 1950 engine swaps? your about the only one to give any sort of an answer. as stated before, i have a 1956 studebaker flat six now. but i could squeeze a v8 in but dont want to change the rest of the drive train to accomidate such mods. more answers allways welcome. 4x`n in tucson weed--out |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/02/1999 9:58 AM |
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On 8/1/99 3:26:37 PM, Kevin Pichelman wrote:
> i own a `79 cj-5 and while putting the valve cover on i managed to brake
> the valve cover bolt on the far end of the engine (the one tucked under the
> tub). while tring to remove the bolt i broke an e-z-out in that... So,
> anyone have any ideas as to how to get this thing out?? is there an...
> easy way to remove the top of the engine (gulp)??
Thanks
Kevin
> Pichelman
Minnetonka, MN
Doh!! Removing the head should not be too difficult, but it`s not a 30 minute job either.
You`ll want to drain the coolant (and oil while you`re at it), remove the intake and exhaust
manifolds, the carb and all the stuff on top (unhook as little as possible to make reassambly
easier). Don`t be afraid to use a plastic deadblow hammer to loosen the head from the block.
Also keep the push rods in order so you can put them back in where they came from. Also may
be a good time to do the heads as you have it off and in the machine shop. (I`m a fan of taking
advantage of times like this).
This order is approximate and assuming you have a straight 6. A V8 will change the
order, but the steps are pretty much the same.
Take the head to a machine shop and tell them what you did. Pay them (shouldn`t be too
hefty a sum). Reassemble.
Good luck,
Mo
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Kevin_Pichelman___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/06/1999 1:50 AM |
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On 8/5/99 7:43:20 PM, Zach Rowand wrote:
> I have a 1980 cj5 with a stock suspension and 31 x 10.5 tires. I think i
> want to lift it. I just don`t know how many inches I should lift it. What
> whould you recomend? How much work is it to add a lift, and can I do it myself?
I recently added a 2.5" lift kit from super lift and a 1.5" shackel lift before that. The shackel lift was very easy but its not very good on your jeep. On the up side i found some heavy duty ones for $50. its a cheap alternive that still looks nice. Body lifts are another option. also cheap (if you want you can use hockey pucks and new heavy (heavy!) duty bolts.) they only cost about$100 and, like the shackle lift, are not that bad to install. The Suspension lift was another story. the super lift rides nicer, will last longer, and is really the correct way to lift a jeep, but the springs and bolts alone run about $500. Suspesion lifts replace (normally) your springs and shocks. For me, on my `79 i had to torch-off every single bolt that held on the springs. (of couse i live in minnesota so every bolt requiers a torch to get off) The suspension lift looks and feels the best and its probley the best choice. In all these cases you might have other problems that will require attention. right now, my brake llines are streched to their very limit. for the super lift i needed to buy special shocks, and sometimes a dropped pitmans arm is needed. try four wheel drive hardware at http://www.jeep-parts.com
If you have any questions on my experiences just email me
Kevin Pichelman
pich0039@tc.umn.edu |
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Aaron___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/06/1999 12:38 PM |
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On 8/5/99 7:43:20 PM, Zach Rowand wrote:
> I have a 1980 cj5 with a stock suspension and 31 x 10.5 tires. I think i
> want to lift it. I just don`t know how many inches I should lift it. What
> whould you recomend? How much work is it to add a lift, and can I do it myself?
There are a couple things to consider when doing a lift. DO you want bigger tires? If not, then don`t get a lift. The tires are what give you more clearance when offroading, lifts just allow you to accomplish that. A suspension lift will allow for more articulation if you go on some more technical trails, where a body will use stock suspension just basiclly raising the fenders for larger tires. One thing you may want to check out is stacking aome small ones on. Mountain Offroad Equipment(www.mountainoffroad.com) has a 1" body lift. I wouldn`t go any bigger then a 1 or 1.5" shackle lift. Mountain Offroad also has a shackle reversal kit which on the YJ Wrangler will lift an inch, I don`t know if it does on CJ`s or not. If it does, you could stack that with the body lift for 2" of lift with a 1" shackle on the rear, since the shackle reversal only lifts the front. I would call or email them, since the shackle reversal does require some work. I have a 2" body lift on my YJ and plan to add the shackle reversal for 1" more, and then add a .5" shackle lift on the front and a 1.5" on the rear to toal 3.5" of lift overall. If you want a little more articulation, check out some sway bar disconnects which will help. Hope this helps. You can email me at ResqCo@aol.com |
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randy___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/08/1999 6:04 AM |
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| On 1/3/99 1:01:25 AM, Dave wrote:
> I have an old 1970 CJ5 with an Oil Bath air cleaner for the carb. I am
> trying to find a air cleaner conversion to a paper air cleaner for my carb.
> Does anyone know where to find a conversion kit or who I can ask? Thanks. If it were me i would continue to use oil bath cleaner,some of the most modern high performance cleaners(read K&N use oil on gauze) use the same principal. Most all diesel trucks,over the road trucks use them as well. I used one on my old Willis and use one on my current ride. (78 Bronco) they are more effective than any cleaner made. And if filled to proper level will not get oil into carb. randypoole@hotmail.com |
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roger___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/11/1999 6:04 PM |
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On 7/21/99 12:05:45 PM, wrote:
> On 7/21/99 11:44:21 AM, Michael Mulvey wrote:
> Any advice on what
> options to get or not get? Is the Dana 44 with trac-loc
> worth looking
> into? And is going to be cheaper in the long run to buy the
> Dana 44 if
> raise it, put bigger tires on it, and change the gearing up?
In the long
> run, it may be cheaper. If you plan on lifting this Jeep and putting
big
> tires on, the 44 is a much stronger axle than the 35c which is stock. The
> 35
has a tendency to bend the housing and bust axle shafts.
Let`s look
> at a 44 from the aftermarket:
Housing: $200
Narrowing housing and
> axles: $200
Gears [parts and setup] $600
Now you can start looking at
> bracketry for the TJ...
Get the picture? Cheaper from the factory.
I hear that the TJ Dana 44 axles have, of course, the
Dana 44 diff housing and guts, but they have thin-walled
tubes like the Dana 35. Anybody else heard this?
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Claude___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/23/1999 12:38 AM |
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On 8/11/99 6:04:29 PM, Roger wrote:
> On 7/21/99 12:05:45 PM, wrote:
> On 7/21/99 11:44:21 AM, Michael Mulvey
> wrote:
> Any advice on what
> options to get or not get? Is the Dana 44
> with trac-loc
> worth looking
> into? And is going to be cheaper in the
> long run to buy the
> Dana 44 if
> raise it, put bigger tires on it,
> and change the gearing up?
In the long
> run, it may be cheaper. If
> you plan on lifting this Jeep and putting
big
> tires on, the 44 is a
> much stronger axle than the 35c which is stock. The
> 35
has a tendency
> to bend the housing and bust axle shafts.
Let`s look
> at a 44 from
> the aftermarket:
Housing: $200
Narrowing housing and
> axles:
> $200
Gears [parts and setup] $600
Now you can start looking at
>
> bracketry for the TJ...
Get the picture? Cheaper from the
> factory.
I hear that the TJ Dana 44 axles have, of course, the
Dana
> 44 diff housing and guts, but they have thin-walled
tubes like the Dana
> 35. Anybody else heard this?
I am in the market looking for an axle and all I have been told is to stay away from the TJ Dana 44 axles as they are alot weaker than the older Dana 44`s. I have heard Dana 44`s from Wagoneers and Scout II`s are relatively easy to install and are the correct width. Ford 9" came in two sizes in the Ford Bronco of the 70`s, one of which is within 1" of the YJ width.
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/25/1999 9:09 AM |
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On 8/5/99 7:43:20 PM, Zach Rowand wrote:
> I have a 1980 cj5 with a stock suspension and 31 x 10.5 tires. I think i
> want to lift it. I just don`t know how many inches I should lift it. What
> whould you recomend? How much work is it to add a lift, and can I do it myself?
Like the others said, it really depends on what the reason for the lift is.
If you just want to run bigger tires (basically, looks), you should consider
a 1-2 inch body lift. Relatively easy to install, but on an 80, you may need
air tools and a torch. There are a number of manufacturers out there who
make good body lifts. Daystar has a new body lift that actually replaces
your existing body mounts and has about 1" of lift built in.
If you want more off-road capability, I`m a big fan of a combination of a
suspension lift and a body lift. You can run bigger tires, as well as get
better articulation. Suspension lift will just about require air tools, and again,
torches on your older vehicle, but can definately be done at home. You`re
best bet (you`re asking if you can do it, so I`ll assume you`ve never done one)
is to buy an entire kit from a single manufacturer (take your pick of many) to
make sure you get everything you`ll need. BDS, Superlift, Skyjacker, and others
come to mind as having basically everything you`ll need availble in kit form.
How much lift? Generally, I recommend people don`t mess with the 2 inch lifts.
Why you ask? Well, once you get the 2" lift, you`ll eventually want the 4" lift.
Save yourself the money and do it right the first time.
Body or suspension first? Body is cheaper. If you don`t like it, not as much
damage to the checkbook.
Hope this helps you figure out what you want to do.
Mo
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/25/1999 9:11 AM |
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On 8/9/99 1:25:57 PM, joe wrote:
> I want to replace my current lap seat belts to 3-point seat belts. I have
> one question where should i mount it to? should I drill into the roll bar,
> and if so how high should I place it?
Not sure of the exact measurements, but you will want it to be about shoulder height.
You should be able to weld a sleeve through the rollbar and use a long, thick
bolt going through the bar.
Try taking a look at a stock 3 point set up and duplicate it. You could also probably
locate a rollbar that has the 3rd point already on it for cheap.
Mo |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/25/1999 9:37 AM |
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On 8/19/99 1:33:26 PM, TED MILLER wrote:
> I cant` find any info on the Commanche 4x4 pickup. Does it have the same
> running gear as the Cherokee of the same year. What is the best years to build up?
Generally, yes. It has the same running gear as a Cherokee of the same year.
Can`t help with the best years, but some of the mid 80s (metric ton package) came
with a Dana 44 rear as opposed to the Dana 35.
There are a few that have been built up quite well that are on the internet. Do
some searching and you`ll find a few out there.
Mo |
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rob___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/26/1999 11:19 PM |
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| On 7/3/99 11:16:23 PM, robert wrote:
> Are 1987 Jeep Cherokees carbeurated or fuel injected?
thinking of buying
> one but refuse to buy a carbeurated POS. CAn anyone help?
I have an 87 and it is has FI as long as it is a 4.0 litre and an automatic |
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Andy_Hill___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/27/1999 11:00 PM |
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On 8/27/99 12:36:41 PM, zach wrote:
> I just noticed this clicking noise a few days ago. I have no clue what it
> is, or where exactly it is coming from. It sounds as if there is a rock
> stuck in my tread, but there isn`t. Does anyone have any idera what it is
> and how to fix it.
You might check the condition of your u joints in the front axle shafts if the noise sounds like it might be coming from there. My 94yj has 78K miles on it and I had the spiders replaced. I did the removal (which required rental of a hub puller - $8) and took the axles into a shop for their press which made the job easier. They charged me $105. If you do this, protect the abs sending unit and its echo wheel. They are very sensitive. It`s probably not the drive shaft u joints because the drive shaft wont turn unless you are in 4wd (or are locked in the front diff). Good luck. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/31/1999 12:51 PM |
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On 8/30/99 4:21:58 PM, Jason Austin wrote:
> How do I convert my A/C compressor so that I can use it to air up my tires?
In a nutshell:
1. Have the system professionally discharged. Freon is not good for the environment. And a charged system is under lots of pressure.
2. Remove everything but the pump -- you won`t need it.
3. Get a tank.
4. Plumb the output side of the pump to the tank. Also include a way to get the air to your hose. Could be between the pump and the tank or after the tank. No difference.
5. Get a way to turn the pump on and off. Use a pressure switch that will turn the compressor on below like 90 psi and off at 120 psi or so.
In a nutshell, that`s it. You`ll need various connectors for hoses and such. Also, you may need an oil separator [dryer] for the air, depending on your pump and how much oil it spits out.
Mo |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 08/31/1999 9:35 PM |
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On 8/31/99 12:50:44 PM, Mo wrote:
> On 8/30/99 4:21:58 PM, Jason Austin wrote:
> How do I convert my A/C
> compressor so that I can use it to air up my tires?
I saw this done once and I asked the owner about it. He did it just like Mo said, but he said he had to run Slick 50 through the pump once a month. He said freon has a lubricant property to it that air does not. Be sure the air you intake into the pump has an air cleaner on it. A small air tank fits nicely in the space behind the right front tire in front of the firewall.
Andy. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 09/04/1999 8:32 PM |
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On 8/31/99 7:53:23 PM, Carl wrote:
> I`m dropping a Amc v8 360 into my cj7. I was told the frame mounts are the
> same, but the repair manual shows different. Does anyone Know?
Carl Richter
Carl,
One of the mounts is different -- don`t remember exactly which, but I believe it is the passenger side.
Best bet is the MORE bombproof mounts. Takes the guess work out of the picture and you get mounts that are as they claim -- bombproof.
Mo |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 09/04/1999 8:36 PM |
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On 9/3/99 10:12:57 AM, Bobaloo wrote:
> I`m ordering a 2000 Wrangler Sport. Any recomendations on front and rear
> axle gearing I should order? I may not do the Rubicon
but other treks are
> in. Any other changes recomended or are they ready to roll like I am told?
> Should I order it without
certain items and use aftermarket parts at
> all?
Thanks Bob (b_bobaloo@hotmail.com)
They are pretty much ready to go. Out of the box, they are probably the best off-roading vehicle ever produced. [my opinion, and you`re entitled to disagree, just don`t get hateful].
However, your best bet would be to do whatever you need to in the way of packages to get the Dana 44 rear end [if it`s still available]. Get it with the lowest [numerically highest] gear ratio available. Probably in the neighbor hood of 3.54 with the 6 cylinder and 4.11 with the 4 cylinder.
Mo |
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roger___
Bone Stock
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| 09/10/1999 5:58 PM |
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On 8/31/99 9:35:12 PM, wrote:
> On 8/31/99 12:50:44 PM, Mo wrote:
> On 8/30/99 4:21:58 PM, Jason Austin
> wrote:
> How do I convert my A/C
> compressor so that I can use it to
> air up my tires?
I saw this done once and I asked the owner about it.
> He did it just like Mo said, but he said he had to run Slick 50 through the
> pump once a month. He said freon has a lubricant property to it that air
> does not. Be sure the air you intake into the pump has an air cleaner on
> it. A small air tank fits nicely in the space behind the right front tire
> in front of the firewall.
Andy.
Actually, the use of something like Slick 50 is dependent on the type of compressor you use. Some compressors have an internal oil reservoir and don`t rely on the freon for lubrication. These are more preferable for pumping air. |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
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| 09/11/1999 6:17 PM |
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On 8/31/99 7:53:23 PM, Carl wrote:
> I`m dropping a Amc v8 360 into my cj7. I was told the frame mounts are the
> same, but the repair manual shows different. Does anyone Know?
Carl Richter |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 09/13/1999 3:28 PM |
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On 9/12/99 6:26:18 PM, sniper wrote:
> I have an `82 cj5 and have already converted to the summers brothers one
> piece axles. Does anyone know if there is a disc
that will fit the bolt
> pattern for the cj5 that could be salvaged from some other make/model? I
> am interested in converting to the disc brakes in back. I have heard that
> the
calipers and disc will fit from a full sized blazer???
any help is
> greatly appreciated.
Check out Warn`s disk brake brackets. I`ve heard of people
running these brackets and the associated calipers and disks
(per the instructions) with one piece axles with success.
I believe it uses Caddy metric calipers (for the e-brake)and
CJ front rotors.
Mo
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 09/22/1999 10:27 AM |
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On 9/22/99 8:41:33 AM, mike monahan wrote:
> my girlfriend wants to buy a 98` jep cj which has 5,000k and asking price
> is $16,000...any comments or
suggestions? pls. e-mail me direct-thanks!
Mike,
First off, the Cherokee is not the CJ you indicated in your message. Both Jeeps, but very different beasts. No CJ model has been available for sale in the US since 1986. So, I`ll assume your `cj` in the message referred to the `Cherokee Jeep`. ;P
A 98 Jeep Cherokee is probably worth the price, depending on condition, options, and where you live. 5,000 miles is pretty darn near new, and MSRP on these vehicles ran in excess of $20,000, depending on options, and geography.
Check around. There are lots of them for sale. Comparison shop locally, what one of these things is worth where you live is often different where someone else lives.
Good luck. Oh, and I love my 92 Cherokee.
Mo |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 09/24/1999 11:31 AM |
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On 9/23/99 9:13:22 PM, Carl wrote:
> i have an 85 cj7 and was trying to figure out which side the short end of
> the front drive shaft goes to? the Transfer case or the diff. Does anyone
> know? I have seen it both ways and was wondering if anyone knows which is
> right.
carl
Carl,
Here`s how I do it: [No, I`m no artist]
T = transfer case yoke
U = U-joint
D = Driveshaft, big side
d = Drive shaft, small side
A = Axle yoke
T A
TUDDDDDDDDDDDDD UA
TU dddddddddddUA
TUDDDDDDDDDDDDD UA
T A
Logic: Big side is (should be at least) higher than the small side, so water is less likely to sit on that seal and penetrate to the inside of the shaft.
Mo |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 09/24/1999 11:34 AM |
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On 9/23/99 8:29:46 PM, Eric Lorenzo wrote:
> Someone was telling me about a liner that they bought for their Jeep. It
> went on the inside of the soft top and signigicantly cut down on the wind
> noise when the top was up.
They don`t remember where they got it from.
> Does anyone know of this product and where to get it?
I believe there is(was) a company called California Tops -- they`re in Canada, not California -- that made such a thing. It was also Thinsulate(tm) so it helped keep you warm in the winter. They had ads in the back of all the major magazines on a regular basis.
Mo |
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josh___
Bone Stock
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| 09/24/1999 8:16 PM |
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On 1/16/99 12:20:44 AM, Rick W wrote:
> This may sound silly but...
To do a really easy test to see if it`s
> chaffed wires... turn the ignition on until you get a reading on the
> gauge. Then have someone shake and kick your rig (preferably on the
> bumpers or nerf-bars or some other really solid place) and see if it
> happens then. If so, you probably have some wires that are worn through
> and need to be fixed.
If not... try unplugging the wires on the guage and
> plugging them into another. You shouldn`t have to take the guage out, just
> plug it into another and have someone hold it while you drive around. If
> it stops, then you know it`s your guage. If not, it`s probably in the
> sending unit but that`s a little harder to fix.
Any one else have
> suggestions???
Rick.
On 1/13/99 9:27:50 PM, C. Norris wrote:
> My gas
> gauge on my 89 wrangler is bouncing around continuously once the
> Jeep
> has been moved and started. It is more of an inconvenience than
>
> anything but, as that is the only thing wrong with the Jeep I thought I
>
> would fix it.
Is this a gauge problem or the gas tank sending unit??
>
> And would it be something that I could easily fix?? Any advice would be
>
> very helpful.
I went through this the other day I replaced the sending unit and it helped a little but the thing that work and the cheapest is start with the gauge its only $40 bucks from a jeep dealer and the gauge dosne`t bounce any more. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 09/26/1999 11:20 PM |
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On 9/26/99 5:16:54 PM, mike wrote:
>i replaced the booster, the master cylinder
Mike,
You have air in there. The key is the part where you replaced the master cylinder. You now need to `bench bleed` the master.
Basically, you need to run a tube from each of the outlet ports to their respective reservior. Pump the brakes repeatedly until there is no air at all. Tap the master with a rubber mallet or piece of wood (not too hard, just to loosen any bubbles). With the power booster, it may be easier to put the master in a vice first -- dunno for sure. Keep doing this until you are sure there is no air in the system.
Mo |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
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| 09/27/1999 10:28 PM |
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what year and where at.
On 9/27/99 5:55:46 PM, Stef wrote:
> CJ7.black.6cyl.autotrans.4x4.hard/soft/bikinitop.harddoors.pwrsteer.tltwhl.a
> m/fm/cass/hideaway.premsound.leather.towpak.alloywh.custbikerach(4).rehalled
> engine.126k.greatcond.$6800.Email-stefnscout@aol.com |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 09/29/1999 9:26 AM |
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Carl,
Maybe our vocabulary is a bit different.
The driveshaft I recently took off my scrambler had a dustboot type of seal on the large side of the shaft. It allowed the splined portion of the smaller side (male side) to slide in and out of the larger side, but was supposed to help prevent road crud off the inner splines.
Are we talking about the same thing? |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
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| 09/30/1999 12:10 PM |
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male section on mine is on the big side. so the small yoke had the female end and seal. My driveshaft is off of a 85 cj7 i also look at my 79 ford bronco and the driveshaft is setup the same way with the smaller end having the seal
I thank you for the info
carl
On 9/29/99 9:25:49 AM, Mo wrote:
> Carl,
Maybe our vocabulary is a bit different.
The driveshaft I
> recently took off my scrambler had a dustboot type of seal on the large
> side of the shaft. It allowed the splined portion of the smaller side
> (male side) to slide in and out of the larger side, but was supposed to
> help prevent road crud off the inner splines.
Are we talking about the
> same thing? |
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Ben___
Bone Stock
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| 10/01/1999 5:43 PM |
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PLEASE DONOT BUY THIS JEEP!!!1
ANYTHING COULD HAVE GONE DOWN THE CARB. DIRT IS SO BAD FOR BEARINGS AND RINGS. RUST CAN BE REPARED. BUT THE NON-RUSTY JEEPS ARE OUT THERE. FIND ONE AND BUY IT.
On 12/14/98 2:34:23 PM, jody wrote:
> On 12/6/98 5:00:37 PM, Preston J. Welch wrote:
>"The Jeep owners bible"
> by Moses Ludel has some great information on all years of Jeeps and is a
> great resource for buying a used Jeep! Jody
I was driving past a
> used car lot yesterday and saw an old Jeep, probably
> late 60`s. I was
> just wondering what I should look for in an old jeep
> like that. I
> don`t know anything about them. This one had some holes in
> the
> floorboards and some minor corrosion in other spots. The engine looks
>
> pretty clean except it was missing the air cleaner assy. I didn`t test
>
> drive it, so I don`t know how it runs. Any input as to what to look for
>
> when buying a jeep would be appreciated. thanks. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 10/05/1999 1:33 PM |
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On 10/5/99 12:36:36 PM, jake4 wrote:
> hey whats up out there? I just got some 31x10.50`s on my wrangler and I was
> wondering
if any body knew if I lost speed or gained some? Or how fast am
> I really going if the speedomiter
reads 60mph.
Also would a shackle
> lift be suficiant enough
or would a lift kit do better? Considering I
> don`t do too much off roading and that I really
don`t want to spend that much.
Speedo will say you`re going slower than you are, assuming you increased the tire diameter. For example, if the tire diameter increased by 4 inches, you`d be going 4 inches per revolution farther than the speed `thinks` you are. Hard to say exactly how far off it is without knowing actual original diameter and actual new diameter. Easy way is to get a stopwatch and hit the interstate.
Shackle lift: I`m not a fan of only shackle lifts. You`ll change your steering geometry enough that you`ll start to get road wander from smaller ruts and bumps. Not fun.
I`m going to assume you`ve got a YJ or a TJ (87 or newer). If so, you can get away with just adjusting the steering stops and you shouldn`t have any trouble with tire rubbing. Steering stops are the bolts on the front axle inboard of the tire. Look, you`ll see them. All they do is limit how far you can turn the wheel. Adjust it so they don`t rub.
Hope this helps.
Mo |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
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| 10/05/1999 1:57 PM |
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On 10/5/99 1:32:49 PM, Mo wrote:
> On 10/5/99 12:36:36 PM, jake4 wrote:
> hey whats up out there? I just got
> some 31x10.50`s on my wrangler and I was
> wondering
if any body knew
> if I lost speed or gained some? Or how fast am
> I really going if the
> speedomiter
reads 60mph.
Also would a shackle
> lift be suficiant
> enough
or would a lift kit do better? Considering I
> don`t do too much
> off roading and that I really
don`t want to spend that much.
Speedo
> will say you`re going slower than you are, assuming you increased the tire
> diameter. For example, if the tire diameter increased by 4 inches, you`d
> be going 4 inches per revolution farther than the speed `thinks` you are.
> Hard to say exactly how far off it is without knowing actual original
> diameter and actual new diameter. Easy way is to get a stopwatch and hit
> the interstate.
Shackle lift: I`m not a fan of only shackle lifts.
> You`ll change your steering geometry enough that you`ll start to get road
> wander from smaller ruts and bumps. Not fun.
I`m going to assume
> you`ve got a YJ or a TJ (87 or newer). If so, you can get away with just
> adjusting the steering stops and you shouldn`t have any trouble with tire
> rubbing. Steering stops are the bolts on the front axle inboard of the
> tire. Look, you`ll see them. All they do is limit how far you can turn
> the wheel. Adjust it so they don`t rub.
Hope this helps.
Mo
Actually it`s the circumference of the tire that you need to calculate. the formula is 3.14 x diameter = C. For example a 28" dia tire would have a C of 87.92" and a 31" dia tire would have a C of 97.34. To calculate the difference divide 97.34 by 87.92 = 1.107 or 10.7%. So you would be going 10.7% faster than the speedo says. If speedo says 60 your going 66.4 theoretically. |
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Mike___
Bone Stock
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| 10/06/1999 8:18 PM |
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| On 10/5/99 12:36:36 PM, jake4 wrote:
> hey whats up out there? I just got some 31x10.50`s on my wrangler and I was
> wondering
if any body knew if I lost speed or gained some? Or how fast am
> I really going if the speedomiter
reads 60mph.
Also would a shackle
> lift be suficiant enough
or would a lift kit do better? Considering I
> don`t do too much off roading and that I really
don`t want to spend that much. |
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Mike___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/06/1999 8:22 PM |
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On 10/5/99 12:36:36 PM, jake4 wrote:
> hey whats up out there? I just got some 31x10.50`s on my wrangler and I was
> wondering
if any body knew if I lost speed or gained some? Or how fast am
> I really going if the speedomiter
reads 60mph.
Also would a shackle
> lift be suficiant enough
or would a lift kit do better? Considering I
> don`t do too much off roading and that I really
do
hey-
your speed change geometry won`t be very noticable at all. autometer makes a special spedometer that will recalibrate itself for things like tires and lift changes. as far as lift goes, consider changing out your rubber body bushings with daystars polyurethane ones. you can get better bushings and a mild 1" lift for about 135 dollars.
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