Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/07/1999 9:45 AM |
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Actually it`s the circumference of
> the tire that you need to calculate. the formula is 3.14 x diameter = C.
> For example a 28" dia tire would have a C of 87.92" and a 31" dia tire
> would have a C of 97.34. To calculate the difference divide 97.34 by 87.92
> = 1.107 or 10.7%. So you would be going 10.7% faster than the speedo says.
> If speedo says 60 your going 66.4 theoretically.
That is exactly correct. BUT we don`t know the size of the original tire (info omitted from original post, or I didn`t see it), which is why I couldn`t say how far off the speedo reading will be.
Mo (honest, I`m not PITA in real life) |
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Ben___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/09/1999 8:08 PM |
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YOU CAN GET BETTER TIRE CLEARANCE (36`s) WILL FIT.
BETTER ARTICULATION, RIDE IMPROVEMENT. DOING A SPRING OVER LIFT IS SOMETHING THAT YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO DO YOURSELF, WELDING / GRINDING/ AND ALOT OF TOOLS NEEDED. I`VE DONE ONE USING THE RUBICON EXPRESS KIT. COTACT THEM AT WWW.RUBICONEXPRESS.COM OR AT (916)858-8575...
THIS IS WHAT I PUT ON. ALSO REMEMBER THAT DRIVELINES NEED TO BE LENGHTHEND, YOU SHOULD DROP YOUR TRANS FER CASE DOWN ABOUT TWO INCHES WITH SPACERS. THE KIT IS ABOUT $400.BUT WELL WORTH IT.
HOPE THIS HELPS YOU MAKE YOUR CHOISE.AND ONLY YOU KNOW WHAT TYPE OF WHEELIN`/ HIGHWAY DRIVING YOU DO. CHECK IT OUT GOOD FIRST............
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Larry_Van_Every___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/11/1999 3:19 AM |
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Have you considered a GM HEI distributor upgrade for the 258 I6 engine? Try looking at this site, and the other two sites refrenced here:
http://www.off-road.com/~gs4w/jeep258.htm
It is much less expensive than any of the Jacobs systems with some (IMHO) distinct advantages:
1. 50,000 volts to the plug.
2. Less plug fouling.
3. Less misfiring.
4. Replacement parts are dirt-cheap.
5. You don`t need a 1 800 number to get help, or parts.
6. You can trouble shoot the system yourself
7. It`s more water proof than OEM
8. It`s a One-wire hookup!
9. It can be done in a couple of hours.
10. The system has been proven in Millions of GM vehicles.
11. Parts are avaliable anywhere.
On 10/10/99 11:17:00 PM, Dave wrote:
> Beep Beep
I love my Jeep
Does anyone know if the Omni Magnum will improve
> the performance on my 258 CJ-8. I`ve seen all the adds promoting it. I have
> not yet met anyone on the trails using it. I mainly need it because I pull
> a 3000 lb boat sometimes. The Jeep does Ok pulling it but it struggles
> going up long grades. |
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Larry_Van_Every___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/11/1999 3:19 AM |
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Have you considered a GM HEI distributor upgrade for the 258 I6 engine? Try looking at this site, and the other two sites refrenced here:
http://www.off-road.com/~gs4w/jeep258.htm
It is much less expensive than any of the Jacobs systems with some (IMHO) distinct advantages:
1. 50,000 volts to the plug.
2. Less plug fouling.
3. Less misfiring.
4. Replacement parts are dirt-cheap.
5. You don`t need a 1 800 number to get help, or parts.
6. You can trouble shoot the system yourself
7. It`s more water proof than OEM
8. It`s a One-wire hookup!
9. It can be done in a couple of hours.
10. The system has been proven in Millions of GM vehicles.
11. Parts are avaliable anywhere.
On 10/10/99 11:17:00 PM, Dave wrote:
> Beep Beep
I love my Jeep
Does anyone know if the Omni Magnum will improve
> the performance on my 258 CJ-8. I`ve seen all the adds promoting it. I have
> not yet met anyone on the trails using it. I mainly need it because I pull
> a 3000 lb boat sometimes. The Jeep does Ok pulling it but it struggles
> going up long grades. |
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pat___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/14/1999 1:14 AM |
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On 10/13/99 7:17:40 PM, kristie wrote:
> Any jeep owners out there check their transfer case fluid levels ever? I
> don`t and now the dealer tells me I have to replace it, again (it was just
> replaced October 98) this time due to a "transfer case seal leak". Sounds
> to me like a faulty part but the dealer purports that had I checked the
> transfer case fluids at each maintenance it would have been caught.
> ANYBODY? I don`t want to get screwed by the service department! Kristie
The new t/c that was put in should`ve lasted at least a year.
I never checked it until I broke a 100K on mine. I went 3+ rough years before I personally started checking it. I do have the transfer case fluid changed when I change my auto tranny fluid. I now check the transfer case fluid every time I change the engine oil.
You`ll have to get under your rig to check the fluid but it`s pretty easy and quick. All you have to do is remove the upper of the two plugs and hopefully there`s fluid up to or near the plug hole. Your owner`s manual has a diagram.
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/14/1999 3:13 PM |
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On 10/13/99 7:17:40 PM, kristie wrote:
> Any jeep owners out there check their transfer case fluid levels ever? I
> don`t and now the dealer tells me I have to replace it, again (it was just
> replaced October 98) this time due to a "transfer case seal leak". Sounds
> to me like a faulty part but the dealer purports that had I checked the
> transfer case fluids at each maintenance it would have been caught.
> ANYBODY? I don`t want to get screwed by the service department! Kristie
If you are going to drive a vechile like a Jeep, especially a 4WD there are standard maintence routines to be done. If you have never checked your transfer case oil, how often do u change your engine oil? most shops that change engine oil will check all fluids including transmission and transfer case.
Carl |
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Dennis___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/17/1999 12:45 PM |
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I have the gearless locker install in my 95 wrangler for abou 2500 miles so far. They do have a additive that you are suppose to add. They are fairly easy to install. and they take a little getting used to driving on the road.
On 10/24/98 2:51:44 PM, Rick W wrote:
> Everyone can sign up for "New Product Review`s" announcements at the
> PRODUCT REVIEWS ZONE main page. ( http://www.4x4review.com/products ).
> There is an input box at the top where you can enter your email address. We
> will then shoot you an email letting you know that there is a new product
> review! Pretty cool huh? :)
Thanks,
On 10/24/98 2:47:17 PM, Big
> Dave wrote:
> Ditto! I cant` wait to see this!
On 10/24/98 2:44:53
> PM, Rick W wrote:
>
> Jackson,
I`m not sure exactly what you are
> asking but here is what
> I
> know as of know. 1) We are expecting a
> shipment of Detroit gearless
> lockers
> any day now. 2) They are
> similar to the ez-locker
>
>
> (http://www.4x4review.com/products/drive_train/ez_locker.asp) that we`ve
>
>
> done a write-up on and the lock-right in that they replace the
> spider
> gears
> inside your stock carrier. However, there isn`t the
> clicking
> sounds that
> comes with these lockers.
3)They don`t
> require any special
> fluids like a
> posi-traction
4)They are made of
> some pretty stout
> materials
and 5)They
> are easy to install (So I`m
> told.)
Again, as
> soon as we get some we`ll do
> a full blown install
> and write-up. We are
> going to try and do several at
> once on
> different makes of
> vehicles.
Thanks,
On 10/24/98 1:09:25 PM,
>
> jackson wrote:
> how
> are the gearless lockers from detroit |
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Dennis___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/17/1999 12:57 PM |
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| I went from the 205/75 r15 to 235/75/r15 qand the speed omoter is 3.5 mph off at 70 mph.check out the gear ratio calculator at www.dirtroad.com/grant.html.
On 5/17/99 3:09:19 AM, jake wrote:
> I was just wondering if I had to recalibrate the odomiter and all that
> stuff.
For any size of tire. Right now I have 215/75/15 and I`m thinking
> of putting
31/10.50`s with no lift. Would I have to recalibrate for a size
> like 235/75/15.
Thanks a lot!!! |
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Aaron___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/19/1999 9:19 AM |
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| I am leaning towards the Warn Black Diamond 2" suspension lift |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/19/1999 3:40 PM |
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On 10/18/99 10:40:49 AM, Aaron wrote:
> When you regear to get back the torque from oversized tires, which do you
> redo, the axle or the rack and pinion? Also, I`m looking for a
> 2"suspension lift who makes a good one?
1. The axle ring and pinion are what get redone. When? Personal preference. Ideally, you`d do it every time you changed tire size, but it`s really up to you. Going to a larger tire, you`ll notice a loss of performance, but you`ll be running lower rpms on the highway [when cruising] or higher rpms in a lower gear. If you`ve got a 5 speed, and after putting on the bigger tires, you don`t [can`t] use 5th, then it`s time to regear.
2. Lots of `em out there. I`m fond of Superlift, personally. Black Diamond, Rancho, Skyjacker, most of the moderate lifts are not too harsh riding.
Mo |
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John___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/19/1999 11:02 PM |
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| On 10/13/99 7:17:40 PM, kristie wrote:
> Any jeep owners out there check their transfer case fluid levels ever? I
> don`t and now the dealer tells me I have to replace it, again (it was just
> replaced October 98) this time due to a "transfer case seal leak". Sounds
> to me like a faulty part but the dealer purports that had I checked the
> transfer case fluids at each maintenance it would have been caught.
> ANYBODY? I don`t want to get screwed by the service department! Kristie |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/19/1999 11:07 PM |
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| On 10/19/99 11:01:57 PM, john wrote: If you have a NP231 transfer case
it would be hard for your quick lube place to check the oil due the odd size
filler and level plug wrench size. Most all of these I have seen leak
oil from the welsh plug in the end of output yoke for the drive shaft,
but would take a long time to leak enough to damage the transfer case.
> On 10/13/99 7:17:40 PM, kristie wrote:
> Any jeep owners out there check
> their transfer case fluid levels ever? I
> don`t and now the dealer
> tells me I have to replace it, again (it was just
> replaced October 98)
> this time due to a "transfer case seal leak". Sounds
> to me like a
> faulty part but the dealer purports that had I checked the
> transfer
> case fluids at each maintenance it would have been caught.
> ANYBODY?
> I don`t want to get screwed by the service department! Kristie |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/21/1999 1:06 PM |
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On 10/21/99 10:57:44 AM, Jason Austin wrote:
> My steering has recently developed some play in it. What is the mmost
> common cause of this on a CJ?
Easiest to check is tie rod and drag link ends. Lift wheel off ground and see if you can wiggle it. Look at rod ends as you wiggle it. Should not be any movement. Also have someone start to turn the steering wheel and watch drag link ends. Again, shouldn`t be any slop.
Mo |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/21/1999 2:12 PM |
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On 10/21/99 10:57:44 AM, Jason Austin wrote:
> My steering has recently developed some play in it. What is the mmost
> common cause of this on a CJ?
Also check the steering box brackets they seem to looose after a while. I have a CJ8 and it needs to btightened almost once a year. if the bolts are loose check to make sure the brackets are still in good shape. last time one of the brackets on my cj8 had a crack in it.
Carl |
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Dennis___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/22/1999 7:15 PM |
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I pull a 10` dutchman pop-up with my 95 4 cyl. Wrangler. One suggestion make sure the trailer has electric brakes on it to aid in stopping.
On 10/18/99 8:39:58 PM, Stan wrote:
> I have a wrangler with a 2.5L engine. Can anyone recommend a pop up tent
> camper that falls within the weight limits for towing? |
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Joe_Baxter___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/23/1999 10:04 AM |
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The loose nut behind the wheel.
On 10/21/99 10:57:44 AM, Jason Austin wrote:
> My steering has recently developed some play in it. What is the mmost
> common cause of this on a CJ? |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/28/1999 9:27 AM |
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Check out the following:
DIY_EFI: http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/index.html
This is a bunch of EEs and such who know lots about a variety of EFI systems
Howell Users page: http://home.att.net/~jweir/tbi/inject.htm
A bunch of mostly off-roaders who use either Howell systems or have retrofitted the GM system that the Howell is based on. |
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charl_"captain_cangaroo"___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 10/29/1999 8:37 AM |
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| I have found that just to swap a power plant just did not do it.
now I own a cj3a with a semi large motor .
here in south africa we are very fortunate to have a ford v6
that just about fits any box with little or no mods.
I found that it went onto my spiser box with only having to drill
one hole for a mounting bolt.if this motor is available to you
drop me a line , I will be glad to help. |
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roger___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/03/1999 3:56 PM |
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On 10/9/99 2:52:40 PM, Stan wrote:
> What should I expect with a spring over conversion?
More clearance for bigger tires. Better articulation - axles under the springs exert more leverage on the springs. Axle wrap leading to wheel hop on hill climbs.
> Is there a kit available?
Rubicon Express has a kit for the basic part of the conversion but comes no where near to including all the things you need to do the job right. (see below)
> What kind of expense should I be looking at?
To pay a shop hear in Phoenix for a good job, about $2000 - $3000.
> How many modificatons will have to be done in addition to a 1988 Jeep Wrangler?
You`ll need to address driveline angles, driveline length, front steering geometry, shock length and brake line length. I may be overlooking something - not sure. There are usually more than one way to deal with these issues, too.
-Roger |
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powers___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/12/1999 9:34 AM |
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On 3/23/99 6:28:16 PM, Norris wrote:
> Im going to change out the stock dash speakers in my 89 wrangler jeep. I
> looked through the Haynes book and they said to remove the speakers with
> the dash in. I looked and while I could see the bolts holding the
> speakers, I doubt that I could get the bolt off because of the tight space,
> much less put them back on the new speakers.
was thinking about removing
> the whole dash to be able to rotate the dash to get easy access to remove
> and replace the speakers.
? Has anyone changed out the speakers with
> the dash in place?? Or can I remove the dash and do it my way??? Any
> suggestions???
I just upgraded my 4x6`s again and the first time I took the dash apart. The second replacement saw the dash being left on, just be careful with the bolts on the side, my Infinity`s had a tendency to stick out and cause a warping on the side, just required an adjustment and it`s all good now.
You would be wise to run a bead of clear silicone along the sides to keep the water out of your speakers.
Powers |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/25/1999 9:31 AM |
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| On 10/9/99 2:52:40 PM, Stan wrote:
> What should I expect with a spring over conversion? Is there a kit
> available? What kind of expense should I be looking at? How many
> modificatons will have to be done in addition to a 1988 Jeep Wrangler?
Thank you,
Stan |
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brancato___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/25/1999 9:32 AM |
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| On 10/9/99 2:52:40 PM, Stan wrote:
> What should I expect with a spring over conversion? Is there a kit
> available? What kind of expense should I be looking at? How many
> modificatons will have to be done in addition to a 1988 Jeep Wrangler?
Thank you,
Stan |
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brancato___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/25/1999 9:32 AM |
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| On 10/9/99 2:52:40 PM, Stan wrote:
> What should I expect with a spring over conversion? Is there a kit
> available? What kind of expense should I be looking at? How many
> modificatons will have to be done in addition to a 1988 Jeep Wrangler?
Thank you,
Stan |
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pat___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 11/29/1999 9:55 PM |
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I`m running 31-10.5-15 BFG ATs on my stock `92 wrangler with the stock steel rims.
I get a bit of rubbing on the fender flares on full compression and had to adjust the steering stops just a little to keep the front tires from rubbing on the leaf springs when I turn the wheel all the way left or right.
I had 30-9.5-15 BFG ATs before the 31`s, I didn`t have any rubbing at all with those.
On 11/29/99 1:13:57 PM, Todd wrote:
> I`m getting new rims and tires for a 1995 Jeep Wrangler. I was told that
> the biggest rim size that I could have was 15x8. No one could tell me what
> the largest tire size was. I do not have a lift kit on my jeep, just
> standard equpment. |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/11/1999 6:38 PM |
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If u try to turn when u are in 4x4 on drive payment the steering will bind up. that is why u shouldn`t drive in 4x4 mode while on drive payment.
Carl
On 12/10/99 12:01:03 PM, Jorge wrote:
> I just bought a 94 Wrangler 6cyl 5spd. I had it lifted with a 4" Pro-Comp
> lift. Now when I put it into 4X4, and make a sharp turn, the steering binds
> up. I then take it out of 4X4 and I can make a complete left or right turn.
> Is there a problem of what the lift shop did to my Jeep or is that the way
> the Jeeps steer while in 4X4??
Please help. |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/12/1999 8:36 AM |
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It would help to know what type of transmission u have. my best guess is that it is a problem with the trans and not the clutch.
possible problems: 1.gearshift selector plates, interlock plate or selector arm, worn damaged. 2.shift rail detent plunger worn, spring broken, or plug loose. 3.gearshift lever worn or damaged. 4.synchronizer sleves or hubs, damaged or worn. 5.shift rails worn or broken, shifter fork bent, setscrew loose, center detent plug missing or worn. 6.broken gear teeth on countershaft gear, clutch shaft, or reverse idler gear.
good luck
Carl
On 12/11/99 8:28:52 PM, panthro wrote:
> Recently my gears have been acting up. Pretty much all the time now when I
> go put it into third gear it
won`t go in at all. I have to go directly to
> fourth. And even sometimes I can`t pull it out of fourth gear to
go to
> fifth. Does this mean my clutch is going out? It has enough clutch fluid.
> If it is going out is there
any recamendations for a new one. Thanks, panthro |
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Ben___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/13/1999 5:58 PM |
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hello there DAN, a few key things we all need to know is where on earth is this jeep/cj-7? also how do we contact you? i`m in WA..
i would be intrested in seeing the rig if you are in WA./OR./ID..let me know. thanks.
BEN aka "GRASSHOPPER"
On 12/8/99 11:11:46 AM, Dan Wilson wrote:
> I have an 82 cj7 for sale. It has the 2.5L motor in it. The frame is solid
> and body is fair, Hard top, bikini, and steel doors. All systems work, has
> had the heater blower upgrade! but motor needs a rebuild. Has 112,00 miles
> on it and will be sold as is. It has low compression and will not start.
> $1000 or best offer.
Thanks
Dan |
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okie13___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/17/1999 12:57 PM |
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On 12/17/99 12:45:53 PM, Andy Hill wrote:
> My 94 YJ has 78000 miles and is in very good condition. When it idles for
> awhile, like when rock crawling or in a long line on a trail, the check
> engine light comes on. If I turn the engine off, then on again, it goes
> off. All guages indicate normal operating condition. Any Ideas why? What
> triggers this light?
Andy,
if it`s any help at all, I`m not sure why it does this either but I had about 60K on my `91 and it came on and stayed on until I
took it in to the dealer and had it reset. it came back on after only a few thousand miles. I left it and forgot about it. ignored
it, anyway. as long as my baby started and kept up the performance I let it be. I had wondered if it might not be the O2
sensor for the catalytic converter but I had no problems with it.
okie13. |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/17/1999 1:22 PM |
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Well when u tow a vechile for a distance u are suposed to unhook the drivshafts, this will keep the mileage from being recorded on the speedometer. most people don`t do this but it is what is recommeded.
Carl
On 12/17/99 1:06:36 PM, okie13 wrote:
> quick question for ya`ll
now that I`ve traded in my `91 I had for over 5
> years, I was wondering
about the digital odometers on the newer models...
> I bought one last week and was
wondering if I unhook the connector for the
> speedo/odo on the driveshaft so I can tow it but keep
from racking up the
> mileage, is there a sensor in the "brain" that will
notify the dealer it
> has been disconnected when I take it in for servicing
and they hook it up
> to their diag. equip?
thanks, any info will help greatly!
okie13 |
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okie13___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/17/1999 1:25 PM |
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I`m with Carl on this one: in `97 I had a `91 YJ for 3 years and it developed conditions very similar to yours. I hadn`t bought
it new so didn`t know how it had been treated before me but I had babied it. when this happened I first took it to the local
AAMCO. they replaced the clutch, flywheel and clutch mastr cyl. (it had a small leak that I knew about and filled myself
as needed) but they didn`t fix the problem, only advised that I should feel "lucky" Jeeps are just like that. BS! then I took it
to 2 different dealers and they both said it needed rebuilding. thankfully it was still under the extended service warr.
I bought with it. that was the only way I could afford the dealer doing it and I wanted someone VERY familiar with JEEPs.
BTW, I highly recommend buying an ext. serv. warr. on used vehicles but not new. b/c it was covered it only cost me $75
for a $1500 rebuild. abd after the $800 dollar bill with AAMCO... but, I digress, it ended up being the 3rd gear synchro.
if you have to rebuild, as I`m sure you know, it`s good to ask for the damaged parts. keep `em honest & on their toes.
okie13
On 12/12/99 8:35:45 AM, Carl wrote:
> It would help to know what type of transmission u have. my best guess is
> that it is a problem with the trans and not the clutch.
possible
> problems: 1.gearshift selector plates, interlock plate or selector arm,
> worn damaged. 2.shift rail detent plunger worn, spring broken, or plug
> loose. 3.gearshift lever worn or damaged. 4.synchronizer sleves or hubs,
> damaged or worn. 5.shift rails worn or broken, shifter fork bent, setscrew
> loose, center detent plug missing or worn. 6.broken gear teeth on
> countershaft gear, clutch shaft, or reverse idler gear.
good
> luck
Carl
On 12/11/99 8:28:52 PM, panthro wrote:
> Recently my
> gears have been acting up. Pretty much all the time now when I
> go put
> it into third gear it
won`t go in at all. I have to go directly to
>
> fourth. And even sometimes I can`t pull it out of fourth gear to
go to
>
> fifth. Does this mean my clutch is going out? It has enough clutch
> fluid.
> If it is going out is there
any recamendations for a new one.
> Thanks, panthro |
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Aaron___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/17/1999 3:01 PM |
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It could be that it is simply a Chrysler default. Most people I know with some kind of Chrysler product have that light come on and stay on when there vehicle hits that high in mileage. It does it for no reason and the vehicles run fine.
On 12/17/99 12:45:53 PM, Andy Hill wrote:
> My 94 YJ has 78000 miles and is in very good condition. When it idles for
> awhile, like when rock crawling or in a long line on a trail, the check
> engine light comes on. If I turn the engine off, then on again, it goes
> off. All guages indicate normal operating condition. Any Ideas why? What
> triggers this light? |
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Carl___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/18/1999 8:11 PM |
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I don`t know about doing the extior, but i had bought a brandnew glass tube for a `81 cj8 and we had the entire interior rhinolined, which is a spray-on polyurthane.
On 12/18/99 6:15:49 PM, okie13 wrote:
> if you drive your rig on a daliy basis like a lot of us do you eventually
> get rock chips on the front of it... right?
well, I thought of this awhile
> back but never got around to it... with my new 2000 Wrangler, I priced
> having LINE-X spray
on one of those bed liners but instead on my front
> grill, the fronts of the fenders and a narrow stripe across the front
> of
the hood. not only is LINE-X seemingly the best of a great thing out
> there but the shops are all privately owned so I`m not really
advertising,
> by any means, and that allows you to talk to the owner directly and bargain
> with him. on mine, not only is he
going to do the front of the body but he
> agreed to do 360 degrees of ALL my new tubes (front & rear bumper, nerf
> bars) for
only an extra $100 in ca$h. this is quite a bargain, lemme tell
> ya. the key was having them done while off the rig, no prep
and masking
> needed. I`ve found lots of small businesses that are willing to work a deal
> with you when it`s cash... duh, huh?
let me know if anyone else has
> thought of doing this polyurethane coating thing on the body and had it done...
okie13 |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
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| 12/20/1999 8:57 AM |
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You can go up to a 31" tire without really worring about rubbing.
As far as tire selection, the new BFG AT good all-purpose tire, unless. Good in snow and decent off-road, unless your in mud. Then they just get gummed up.
I`ve got Bridgestone Dueler ATs on my Cherokee. It`s an all street vehicle, but sees snow (I`m in Cleveland--it normally snows here, but not yet this year) often. It`s a good year-round tire. Basically, any AT rated tire from any major manufacturer will do pretty well, unless you`re into heavy off-roading.
As far as rims are concerned, pick a style you like and get it in a standard off-set. It won`t match your stock offset perfectly, but it`s darn close. My preference is towards the Hurricane (similar to the General Lee) style wheels. But that`s just me.
Mo
On 12/19/99 1:24:20 PM, GTDworak wrote:
> I have a 97 Jeep Wrangler Sport. I am looking for recommendations for
> wheels and tires for my Jeep. Right now I have the factory 7" wheels with
> the wimpy tires they use. I want to go to a 8 x 15 wheel (probably chrome
> mags) with a good all terrain tire. I need to know how big a tire I should
> go with, i.e.: 30", 31", ?. Any ideas for brand and type would also be
> welcome. Any recommendations for a good wheel manufacturer who specializes
> in Jeep wheels would be great. I don`t want to lift the vehicle or anything
> and I`m concerned that I may buy something inappropriate for my set-up. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/22/1999 2:44 PM |
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Your Jeep needs a bolt pattern known as 5 on 5.5 Basically, it`s 5 bolts in a circle with a diameter of 5.5 inches. Newer Jeeps (YJ,XJ,ZJ,WJ,TJ) use a 5 on 4.5. Getting the right wheels is not a problem. Fords and Chevys both used the 5 on 5.5
As far as the rubbing, you may get some, but not due to the height. Wheels that wide can rub when you turn the steering wheel to full lock on either side. My Scrambler rubbed the tires on the springs when I turned the wheel too far. It`s not a huge problem, just need to be aware. Should also be able to adjust the steering stops so you don`t do this.
Mo
On 12/22/99 12:03:12 PM, Jer wrote:
> I have a `75 Cj-5. I am going to put a 4 inch lift on it. The tires I
> wanted are 33" /14.00X15 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws on 15X10 Wheels. I`ve
> heard that wider tires can sometimes cause problems on old Cj`s. I was
> wondering if these would fit, and if 35" would fit. Also, I tried some 94`
> Jeep wheels on my Jeep, and they wouldn`t fit because of the nut pattern.
> Can this be a problem for the new wheels i want to get? If so, how could I
> specify what type of nut pattern I need? |
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Glenn___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/23/1999 8:46 PM |
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| On 12/18/99 6:15:49 PM, okie13 wrote:
> if you drive your rig on a daliy basis like a lot of us do you eventually
> get rock chips on the front of it... right?
well, I thought of this awhile
> back but never got around to it... with my new 2000 Wrangler, I priced
> having LINE-X spray
on one of those bed liners but instead on my front
> grill, the fronts of the fenders and a narrow stripe across the front
> of
the hood. not only is LINE-X seemingly the best of a great thing out
> there but the shops are all privately owned so I`m not really
advertising,
> by any means, and that allows you to talk to the owner directly and bargain
> with him. on mine, not only is he
going to do the front of the body but he
> agreed to do 360 degrees of ALL my new tubes (front & rear bumper, nerf
> bars) for
only an extra $100 in ca$h. this is quite a bargain, lemme tell
> ya. the key was having them done while off the rig, no prep
and masking
> needed. I`ve found lots of small businesses that are willing to work a deal
> with you when it`s cash... duh, huh?
let me know if anyone else has
> thought of doing this polyurethane coating thing on the body and had it done...
okie13 |
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Aaron___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/24/1999 5:28 PM |
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| I would go with probably the 30 x 9.5" tires since you can get that size from the factory. They are the same size as the 235/75R15. I have Pirelli Scorpion AT`s on my Jeep. They are really good in the rain, haven`t had them long enough to see about snow. They`ll do what you need if you`re into light offroading. As far as wheels. I really like the American Racing Mantis wheel. I`ve only seen them on a Durango but they looked incredible on it.
On 12/19/99 1:24:20 PM, GTDworak wrote:
> I have a 97 Jeep Wrangler Sport. I am looking for recommendations for
> wheels and tires for my Jeep. Right now I have the factory 7" wheels with
> the wimpy tires they use. I want to go to a 8 x 15 wheel (probably chrome
> mags) with a good all terrain tire. I need to know how big a tire I should
> go with, i.e.: 30", 31", ?. Any ideas for brand and type would also be
> welcome. Any recommendations for a good wheel manufacturer who specializes
> in Jeep wheels would be great. I don`t want to lift the vehicle or anything
> and I`m concerned that I may buy something inappropriate for my set-up. |
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MIKE_B.___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/28/1999 6:55 PM |
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| I have a `99 Wrangler and I put a set of 15x8 Eagle 639`s with Bridgestone Dueller H/T 31x10.50-15`s. They really set the vehicle off. The tires do suprisingly well for an all-terrain. On 12/19/99 1:24:20 PM, GTDworak wrote:
> I have a 97 Jeep Wrangler Sport. I am looking for recommendations for
> wheels and tires for my Jeep. Right now I have the factory 7" wheels with
> the wimpy tires they use. I want to go to a 8 x 15 wheel (probably chrome
> mags) with a good all terrain tire. I need to know how big a tire I should
> go with, i.e.: 30", 31", ?. Any ideas for brand and type would also be
> welcome. Any recommendations for a good wheel manufacturer who specializes
> in Jeep wheels would be great. I don`t want to lift the vehicle or anything
> and I`m concerned that I may buy something inappropriate for my set-up. |
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MIKE_B.___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/28/1999 6:56 PM |
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| I have a `99 Wrangler and I put a set of 15x8 Eagle 639`s with Bridgestone Dueller H/T 31x10.50-15`s. They really set the vehicle off. The tires do suprisingly well for an all-terrain. On 12/19/99 1:24:20 PM, GTDworak wrote:
> I have a 97 Jeep Wrangler Sport. I am looking for recommendations for
> wheels and tires for my Jeep. Right now I have the factory 7" wheels with
> the wimpy tires they use. I want to go to a 8 x 15 wheel (probably chrome
> mags) with a good all terrain tire. I need to know how big a tire I should
> go with, i.e.: 30", 31", ?. Any ideas for brand and type would also be
> welcome. Any recommendations for a good wheel manufacturer who specializes
> in Jeep wheels would be great. I don`t want to lift the vehicle or anything
> and I`m concerned that I may buy something inappropriate for my set-up. |
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minigmh@prodigy.net___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/28/1999 9:26 PM |
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The transfer case comes in various forms. Some provide greater differential speeds of the front and rear driveshafts. Some don`t. Part time (command track) means there is little or no difference in driveshaft speeds. Thence in high traction applications (dry pavement) the drivetrain can bind and be stressed. Only use it when needed. It has advantages when on sand, dirt or rugged wheel in the air type of driving. Full Time (select track) means the drive train is meant to differ slightly and can therefore remain unharmed when driven on dry pavement. This is what you would need in your application.
(On 12/26/99 7:41:56 PM, jordan wrote:
> This might be a stupid question, but....
I purchased my first jeep in
> the summer, it is a 99 wrangler se,I think it is a DANA 35. The instruction
> manual refers to it as being "part-time 4 wheel drive and can be engaged at
> any legal speed"- here is the question, how part time is this? I plan on
> taking a 1000+ mile trip soon through the mid-west ( There usually is a lot
> of snow around ohio, indiana and into missouri, If there is snow on the
> road, can I stay in 4 wheel drive for that long of a trip, and can I be
> doing speeds of 55-65 mph? The book the jeep came with has me paranoid
> about doing damage to the jeep by driving in 4x4 mode! Please remit your
> feedback to arnuckle3@cs.com
thanks in advance for your help! Jordan |
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panthro___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/29/1999 3:35 AM |
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Hey okie? So are you saying that I will have to rebuild my clutch, because thats what it
sounds like. Or can i have the mechanic just look at the third gear syncrho? Because thats
where I have the most trouble when shifting gears. Plus my extended plan already expired
a long time ago. would it bequicker just to buy a whole neew clutch and have it installed.
I mean not to have to bother paying mechanics to look at it and not even know whats wrong
with it , would buying a whole knew clutch be quicker? thanks , panthro
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panthro___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 12/29/1999 3:51 AM |
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| panthro here . hey man I have a 94 wrangler and i just put 31x10.50`s dunlop mud terains
on and i love them. they are on a 15x8 rim, eagle gambler, they stick out a little and
even rub on a good size bump, rock or even dip, thats why i am going to put a lift on
it soooooon!they rub espessially when my peeps (friends) are in the backseat. .
But if you get 31`s you will definetly need some kind of lift. also watch your gas milage
drop respectfully. when i say they rub i mean they rub on the rubber fenders, but thats
pretty much it. later |
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unknown___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/08/2000 2:49 PM |
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| On 10/21/99 10:57:44 AM, Jason Austin wrote:
> My steering has recently developed some play in it. What is the mmost
> common cause of this on a CJ? |
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Ryan_Perry___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/08/2000 4:55 PM |
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On 9/28/99 12:40:33 PM, Carl wrote:
> I`m parting out a `77 J10. it has Dana 44 front and rear 3.54 gears.
> sliding rear window, left door, frame, suspension, brown bed topper,
> raditor, grill, hood, factory spokes.
I live in Ohio.
How much for the Rear Dana 44? Where at in Ohio do you live? |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/11/2000 3:56 PM |
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Sorry `bout that.
www.hescosc.com
(205)251-1472
The harness isn`t shown on the page, but talk to them. They KNOW performance Jeep engines.
Mo
On 1/6/00 4:50:44 PM, JD Derryberry wrote:
> Thanks for the response, MO. Does anyone have a phone number?
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MIKE_B.___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/12/2000 5:16 PM |
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| THE YJ WRANGLERS DON`T QUITE HAVE AS MUCH FENDER CLEARANCE AS THE NEWER TJ`S. I HAVEN`T HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH RUBBING (W/31X10.50`S) EXCEPT IN EXTREME ARTICULATION, BUT I WILL BE ADDING A 2" BODY LIFT IN THE FUTURE TO REMEDY THIS. On 12/29/99 3:51:12 AM, panthro wrote:
> panthro here . hey man I have a 94 wrangler and i just put 31x10.50`s
> dunlop mud terains
on and i love them. they are on a 15x8 rim, eagle
> gambler, they stick out a little and
even rub on a good size bump, rock
> or even dip, thats why i am going to put a lift on
it soooooon!they rub
> espessially when my peeps (friends) are in the backseat. .
But if you
> get 31`s you will definetly need some kind of lift. also watch your gas
> milage
drop respectfully. when i say they rub i mean they rub on the
> rubber fenders, but thats
pretty much it. later |
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MIKE_B.___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/12/2000 5:17 PM |
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| THE YJ WRANGLERS DON`T QUITE HAVE AS MUCH FENDER CLEARANCE AS THE NEWER TJ`S. I HAVEN`T HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH RUBBING (W/31X10.50`S) EXCEPT IN EXTREME ARTICULATION, BUT I WILL BE ADDING A 2" BODY LIFT IN THE FUTURE TO REMEDY THIS. On 12/29/99 3:51:12 AM, panthro wrote:
> panthro here . hey man I have a 94 wrangler and i just put 31x10.50`s
> dunlop mud terains
on and i love them. they are on a 15x8 rim, eagle
> gambler, they stick out a little and
even rub on a good size bump, rock
> or even dip, thats why i am going to put a lift on
it soooooon!they rub
> espessially when my peeps (friends) are in the backseat. .
But if you
> get 31`s you will definetly need some kind of lift. also watch your gas
> milage
drop respectfully. when i say they rub i mean they rub on the
> rubber fenders, but thats
pretty much it. later |
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MIKE_B.___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/12/2000 5:17 PM |
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| THE YJ WRANGLERS DON`T QUITE HAVE AS MUCH FENDER CLEARANCE AS THE NEWER TJ`S. I HAVEN`T HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH RUBBING (W/31X10.50`S) EXCEPT IN EXTREME ARTICULATION, BUT I WILL BE ADDING A 2" BODY LIFT IN THE FUTURE TO REMEDY THIS. On 12/29/99 3:51:12 AM, panthro wrote:
> panthro here . hey man I have a 94 wrangler and i just put 31x10.50`s
> dunlop mud terains
on and i love them. they are on a 15x8 rim, eagle
> gambler, they stick out a little and
even rub on a good size bump, rock
> or even dip, thats why i am going to put a lift on
it soooooon!they rub
> espessially when my peeps (friends) are in the backseat. .
But if you
> get 31`s you will definetly need some kind of lift. also watch your gas
> milage
drop respectfully. when i say they rub i mean they rub on the
> rubber fenders, but thats
pretty much it. later |
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Dave_C___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/12/2000 7:31 PM |
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On 3/13/99 11:26:13 PM, Bryan wrote:
> i just got a few lifts on my jeep and it has a 2.5 liter, strait 4. I was
> wondering if i put 33s on how much power would i have??
thanks
bryan
bryan, I also have a 2.5 and I just put 30" tires with a 2" spring lift.
it is down on power a little bit. My shift points have went up about 7-10 miles per hour.
In a strong wind it doesnt like to pull 5`th gear. I really dont think you will like the performance
with 33" unless you only drive around town and stay off the highway. |
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Mo___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/13/2000 1:08 PM |
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Hmm...how`s your `friend`?
They come from the factory unhooked. I know. I took one on a test drive and I know the odometer didn`t work...don`t remember about the speedometer.
I wouldn`t worry about it (the Jeep).
Good luck and don`t leave your keys lying around any more. ;^P
Mo
On 1/11/00 8:55:00 PM, wrote:
> I RECENTLY FOUND OUT THAT A "FRIEND" OF MINE HAD BEEN DRIVING MY NEW JEEP
> WHILE I WAS AWAY ON VACATION. HE UNHOOKED THE SPEEDOMETER SENSOR FROM THE
> TRANSMISSION AND DROVE IT ALL WEEKEND! HERE`S MY PREDICAMENT:DO I TELL THE
> DEALERSHIP WHAT HAPPENED AND RISK VOIDING MY WARRANTY OR NOT SAY ANYTHING?
> IF SOMETHING HAPPENS IN THE FUTURE THAT NEEDS WARRANTY WORK,WILL THEIR
> DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT TELL THEM? PLEASE HELP. |
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Latimir___
Bone Stock
Posts:0
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| 01/18/2000 6:29 PM |
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| Don`t know if this reply is too late, but I have a 98 TJ that has 31x12.50x15 Swamper Boggers mounted on 15x8 Eagle 589s with a 3 and 5/8 backspacing. I got them from 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers in a package deal. I don`t have a lift or anything done to the Jeep except Rancho Rs5000 shocks and steering stabilizer. The tires are obviously loud and nerve racking, but you own a Jeep, it goes with the territory. I have about 30000 miles on these tires and they are getting to the point where they need to be replaced. That 30000 miles was mostly highway and street miles. Expect to rotate them every 3000 miles and monitor the airpressure religiously or they won`t last very long on the street. I have kept mine at 27psi for street use. Offroad is usually 15psi for me. As for rubbing on the fenders, I don`t wheel it hard enough to get in this situation, but the tires don`t hit any suspension parts when the steering wheel is turned lock to lock on the street. I have the 3.73 gear and I didn`t notice any performance changes and my gas mileage has always been bad, so I don`t know if the tires made it worse. Hope this helps. On 12/19/99 1:24:20 PM, GTDworak wrote:
> I have a 97 Jeep Wrangler Sport. I am looking for recommendations for
> wheels and tires for my Jeep. Right now I have the factory 7" wheels with
> the wimpy tires they use. I want to go to a 8 x 15 wheel (probably chrome
> mags) with a good all terrain tire. I need to know how big a tire I should
> go with, i.e.: 30", 31", ?. Any ideas for brand and type would also be
> welcome. Any recommendations for a good wheel manufacturer who specializes
> in Jeep wheels would be great. I don`t want to lift the vehicle or anything
> and I`m concerned that I may buy something inappropriate for my set-up. |
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