Chris_Overacker___
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| 09/18/1998 10:15 AM |
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On 9/18/98 1:39:37 AM, skiff wrote:
> Are shackle reversals worth the time and energy or are they just a passing
> fad? Jeeps have performed great without them for years. What arethe
> advantages/ disadvantages? Any help would be great! Skiff
Yes, they are worth it! Why, Because it allows the front axle to travel in
a much more natural action when the spring compresses.
In stock form (shackles in front of axle) when the front tire comes in contact
with a obstruction, the impact is partially transmitted back to the frame
via the solid rear pivot point. Reversing the pivot point to a point in front
of the axle allows the impact to be better absorbed by the spring and shackle.
The result is a more natural suspension flow over the obstacle. At higher
speeds, a smoother ride and improved handling is noticeable, less wandering
and darting are some of the advantages.
All M.O.R.E. (Mountain Off Road Enterprises) Shackle Reversal Systems have
a very important design feature built into the new front pivot brackets.
They are designed to move the front axle forward from the stock location.
Pushing the axle forward will help keep the front tire from contacting
the front the fender as the suspension compresses. This is the ONLY correct
way to design a shackle reversal system.
M.O.R.E. has several different systems avalilable for Jeep CJ`s and YJ`s.
Please call for a free catalog. 970-625-0500 |
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BJ___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 10/02/1998 6:55 PM |
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On 9/18/98 1:39:37 AM, skiff wrote:
> Are shackle reversals worth the time and energy or are they just a passing
> fad? Jeeps have performed great without them for years. What arethe
> advantages/ disadvantages? Any help would be great! Skiff
Skiff; I haven`t done it on my Jeep but I know a guyt that did. I asked him how he liked it and he told me it wasn`t worth the time he spent. |
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Bob_Gibson___
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| 10/03/1998 2:01 PM |
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| On 9/18/98 1:39:37 AM, skiff wrote:
> Are shackle reversals worth the time and energy or are they just a passing
> fad? Jeeps have performed great without them for years. What arethe
> advantages/ disadvantages? Any help would be great! Skiff
I have done two shackle reversals on my CJ7. The first was done with the original spring-under config. It made an immediate difference (improvement) in the ride and handling both on and off road. The setup I used was from Warrior Products. The kit was beefy enough, but I wouldn`t recommend it because it doesn`t move the axle forward to allow for the new rearward movement under compression. About a year ago, I went spring-over using factory Wrangler springs. M.O.R.E makes a kit specifically for this comversion, theirs is much stouter, moves the axle forward 1 1/4", and mounts the shackle end through the frame, instead of under it, so less parts stick out to catch rocks. I think reversals are well worth the time and money. Jeep did come reversed from the factory on the M38-A1 (military CJ5), I don`t know why they didn`t carry it into the civilians.
Bob
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Rick_W___
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| 10/04/1998 11:02 PM |
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BJ,
I would try advancing your timing about 2 degrees. That should the hard starts but not the run on. Usually, hard starts don`t happen with run on and vice versa as they are both adversly affected by the timing. I would try playing with the timing and probably check for vaccuum leaks too. How many miles are on your Jeep?
Rick
On 10/2/98 6:57:49 PM, BJ wrote:
> Is anyone out there having timing problems, hard cold starts or run on with
> the Howell TBI on a stock 258 In-line 6? |
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Rick_W___
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| 10/04/1998 11:05 PM |
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Hello all.
We just did a shackle reversal on Jody`s 1977 Jeep CJ5. WOW! We were sure impressed. Super beefy, well thought out and well designed! We saw a notable difference both on and off road and gained about 2" of front axle droop. Look for the write-up here in the next couple of days! Definately worth it!
Rick
On 9/18/98 1:39:37 AM, skiff wrote:
> Are shackle reversals worth the time and energy or are they just a passing
> fad? Jeeps have performed great without them for years. What arethe
> advantages/ disadvantages? Any help would be great! Skiff |
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BJ___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 10/05/1998 5:04 PM |
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On 10/4/98 11:01:44 PM, Rick W wrote:
> BJ,
I would try advancing your timing about 2 degrees. That should
> the hard starts but not the run on. Usually, hard starts don`t happen with
> run on and vice versa as they are both adversly affected by the timing. I
> would try playing with the timing and probably check for vaccuum leaks too.
> How many miles are on your Jeep?
Rick
Yeah Rick, I tried that... believe it or not we found the problem. When we had the rebuilt motor installed we had the distributor replaced and they forgot to calibrate it! Argh! Fortunately we had the old one and calibrated it ourselves... much better. We added a Jacobs omni Magnum ignition as well and everything has smoothed right out. We still get the occasional idle stumble but we`ve always had that since day one. In answer to your question, we have 275,000km on the Jeep but only 48,000km on the rebuilt engine. Thanks for you suggestions though!
On 10/2/98 6:57:49 PM, BJ
> wrote:
> Is anyone out there having timing problems, hard cold starts or
> run on with
> the Howell TBI on a stock 258 In-line 6? |
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Davey_Crocket___
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| 10/06/1998 10:49 PM |
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I have a couple of friends that had them and they were total JUNK! I`m not sure if the newer systems have fixed all of the problems that the older ones had.
Good luck
On 10/6/98 4:55:02 PM, Chad wrote:
> I see that BJ used the Howell kit. Does anyone know how well the Holley
> kit works? It got some bad press when it first came out, but heard that was
> all fixed. Any input would be great. I have a 78 CJ-7 258 I-6, 20k on
> rebuild. thanks Chad B. |
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jody___
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| 10/09/1998 1:29 AM |
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On 10/6/98 4:55:02 PM, Chad wrote:
>Ive heard that the problems in the beginning have been fixed, I have heard that it is a pretty trouble free system now. It sounds like a good product review to me, I`ll See what we can do!
Jody
I see that BJ used the Howell kit. Does anyone know how well the Holley
> kit works? It got some bad press when it first came out, but heard that was
> all fixed. Any input would be great. I have a 78 CJ-7 258 I-6, 20k on
> rebuild. thanks Chad B. |
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jody___
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| 10/15/1998 1:25 AM |
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Check out our review on the M.O.R.E. 1" body lift, Chris Overacker form M.O.R.E. also makes a 1" body lift for your Jeep! Should be just what you need for a litle more tire clearance. It is also an easy install on a new Jeep. The number for Mountain Off Road Enterprises is 970-625-0500. Tell Chris you saw his kit here! Jody
On 10/14/98 11:49:51 PM, Carl wrote:
> I have a question--I have a 98 Jeep TJ (6 cyl) with a 2 inch pro comp lift.
> Right now i have BFG AT`s 32x11.50 and i have decided on changing to TSL
> Thornbirds (33x12.50). My question is this-I dont believe that i can fit
> the 33`s under right now -what is the cheapest and easiest way to add a
> little more clearance to fit these tires?? |
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unknown___
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| 10/22/1998 4:30 PM |
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| Brian, The Chevy swap into a jeep isprobably the most popular of all engine swaps. It is not without its difficulties though. You are swapping in a computer controlled Camaro engine into a non-computer controlled Jeep. You are going to need more than just the engine from the Camaro. You will need the computer, most of the wiring harness, possibly the in-tank fuel pump and many other items. You are also going to have to get a set of new motor mounts, check with M.O.R.E. on our vendor page for phone number. You will also need an adapter to mate the Chevy motor to your Jeep transmission(Advanced Adapters)and a wiring harness from someone like Wireworks, Painless wiring etc. All of this is not cheap, but if you want Chevy V-8 performance than this is the ticket. You may also have to upgrade your rear axle to stand the power ofthe V-8. To answer your question sure you can do it! Any of the above companies can also give you some guidance on the swap, especially Advanced Adapters. Good Luck. Jody
On 10/21/98 9:23:37 PM, brian wrote:
> Can you put a 95 camero engine in a 81 CJ 7 |
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unknown___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 10/24/1998 1:22 PM |
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| On 10/14/98 11:49:51 PM, Carl wrote:
> I have a question--I have a 98 Jeep TJ (6 cyl) with a 2 inch pro comp lift.
> Right now i have BFG AT`s 32x11.50 and i have decided on changing to TSL
> Thornbirds (33x12.50). My question is this-I dont believe that i can fit
> the 33`s under right now -what is the cheapest and easiest way to add a
> little more clearance to fit these tires?? |
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Rick_W___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 10/24/1998 2:45 PM |
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Jackson,
I`m not sure exactly what you are asking but here is what I know as of know. 1) We are expecting a shipment of Detroit gearless lockers any day now. 2) They are similar to the ez-locker (http://www.4x4review.com/products/drive_train/ez_locker.asp) that we`ve done a write-up on and the lock-right in that they replace the spider gears inside your stock carrier. However, there isn`t the clicking sounds that comes with these lockers.
3)They don`t require any special fluids like a posi-traction
4)They are made of some pretty stout materials
and 5)They are easy to install (So I`m told.)
Again, as soon as we get some we`ll do a full blown install and write-up. We are going to try and do several at once on different makes of vehicles.
Thanks,
On 10/24/98 1:09:25 PM, jackson wrote:
> how are the gearless lockers from detroit |
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Skipper___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 10/24/1998 2:46 PM |
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How will you let us know??? I`m DIEING TO SEE THE WRITE-UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
On 10/24/98 2:44:53 PM, Rick W wrote:
> Jackson,
I`m not sure exactly what you are asking but here is what I
> know as of know. 1) We are expecting a shipment of Detroit gearless lockers
> any day now. 2) They are similar to the ez-locker
> (http://www.4x4review.com/products/drive_train/ez_locker.asp) that we`ve
> done a write-up on and the lock-right in that they replace the spider gears
> inside your stock carrier. However, there isn`t the clicking sounds that
> comes with these lockers.
3)They don`t require any special fluids like a
> posi-traction
4)They are made of some pretty stout materials
and 5)They
> are easy to install (So I`m told.)
Again, as soon as we get some we`ll do
> a full blown install and write-up. We are going to try and do several at
> once on different makes of vehicles.
Thanks,
On 10/24/98 1:09:25 PM,
> jackson wrote:
> how are the gearless lockers from detroit |
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Big_Dave___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 10/24/1998 2:47 PM |
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Ditto! I cant` wait to see this!
On 10/24/98 2:44:53 PM, Rick W wrote:
> Jackson,
I`m not sure exactly what you are asking but here is what I
> know as of know. 1) We are expecting a shipment of Detroit gearless lockers
> any day now. 2) They are similar to the ez-locker
> (http://www.4x4review.com/products/drive_train/ez_locker.asp) that we`ve
> done a write-up on and the lock-right in that they replace the spider gears
> inside your stock carrier. However, there isn`t the clicking sounds that
> comes with these lockers.
3)They don`t require any special fluids like a
> posi-traction
4)They are made of some pretty stout materials
and 5)They
> are easy to install (So I`m told.)
Again, as soon as we get some we`ll do
> a full blown install and write-up. We are going to try and do several at
> once on different makes of vehicles.
Thanks,
On 10/24/98 1:09:25 PM,
> jackson wrote:
> how are the gearless lockers from detroit |
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Rick_W___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 10/24/1998 2:52 PM |
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Everyone can sign up for "New Product Review`s" announcements at the PRODUCT REVIEWS ZONE main page. ( http://www.4x4review.com/products ). There is an input box at the top where you can enter your email address. We will then shoot you an email letting you know that there is a new product review! Pretty cool huh? :)
Thanks,
On 10/24/98 2:47:17 PM, Big Dave wrote:
> Ditto! I cant` wait to see this!
On 10/24/98 2:44:53 PM, Rick W wrote:
>
> Jackson,
I`m not sure exactly what you are asking but here is what
> I
> know as of know. 1) We are expecting a shipment of Detroit gearless
> lockers
> any day now. 2) They are similar to the ez-locker
>
> (http://www.4x4review.com/products/drive_train/ez_locker.asp) that we`ve
>
> done a write-up on and the lock-right in that they replace the spider
> gears
> inside your stock carrier. However, there isn`t the clicking
> sounds that
> comes with these lockers.
3)They don`t require any special
> fluids like a
> posi-traction
4)They are made of some pretty stout
> materials
and 5)They
> are easy to install (So I`m told.)
Again, as
> soon as we get some we`ll do
> a full blown install and write-up. We are
> going to try and do several at
> once on different makes of
> vehicles.
Thanks,
On 10/24/98 1:09:25 PM,
> jackson wrote:
> how
> are the gearless lockers from detroit |
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4byNUT___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 10/24/1998 2:53 PM |
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what types of rigs???
On 10/24/98 1:09:25 PM, jackson wrote:
> how are the gearless lockers from detroit |
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Rick_W___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 10/24/1998 2:56 PM |
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Couple of Jeeps (CJ5 and YJ) and a K5 Blazer to start. Then probably an FJ40.
Keep your eyes out! :)
Thanks,
Rick
On 10/24/98 2:53:19 PM, 4byNUT wrote:
> what types of rigs???
On 10/24/98 1:09:25 PM, jackson wrote:
> how are
> the gearless lockers from detroit |
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Roger_Tomas___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 11/18/1998 9:59 AM |
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Does the M.O.R.E. shackle reversal kit provide any
additional lift? Do you need to install longer shackles
in the rear to level the vehicle (say, a 93 Wrangler)?
-Roger |
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Joel___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 11/22/1998 7:41 PM |
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| On 10/21/98 9:23:37 PM, brian wrote:
> Can you put a 95 camero engine in a 81 CJ 7 |
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Joel___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 11/22/1998 7:47 PM |
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| On 10/21/98 9:23:37 PM, brian wrote:
> yes, I would also replace the jeep tranny. Motor mounts will be required(i have for 190.00)also a tranny transfer case adapter,radiator,drive shaft length changes, and a wiring harness for the fuel injection. The cost you work double it. |
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Storman_Norman_(95_Cherokee)___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 11/30/1998 1:04 PM |
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On 11/27/98 12:44:21 AM, zach wrote:
> Ok....I am looking at a 1993 Jeep Cherokee. It is in good shape, is not
> expensive, and it has low mileage. One thing bugs me, when I put it in 4wd
> low or hi, a light comes on on the dash saying "PART TIME." Does this mean
> I can drive it around on dry pavement without destroying the t/f case? Or
> is it a problem? Maybe it won`t fully engage? Is it possible to put it in
> full time 4wd low and hi?
Re: Part Time
Jeep Cherokee`s and other Jeep Trans with Part Time 4wd.
Are designed to be used only "PART OF THE TIME" It will stress the front diff. and can cause spider gear and axil damage if used on dry roads.... They can be used on wet roads but I advise againt this.. Use only on dirt or in Icy conditions..
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Tamborineman___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 12/01/1998 10:51 PM |
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If you have torsion bars in the front, you can just squeeze 1 inch lift blocks in between the leaf springs in the back and tighten the torsion bars a little. This will probably cost you like 30 dollars, although this is probably not a good idea for any really serious off roading. I have a friend who did this to his pickup and so far has had no problems, and he takes his truck through hell in the mud hole every rainy day. If you do decide to do this, make sure the lift blocks are secured well, or they could possibly slip out and then you`re pretty much SOL.
On 10/14/98 11:49:51 PM, Carl wrote:
> I have a question--I have a 98 Jeep TJ (6 cyl) with a 2 inch pro comp lift.
> Right now i have BFG AT`s 32x11.50 and i have decided on changing to TSL
> Thornbirds (33x12.50). My question is this-I dont believe that i can fit
> the 33`s under right now -what is the cheapest and easiest way to add a
> little more clearance to fit these tires?? |
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Longrun___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 12/02/1998 2:18 PM |
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On 11/30/98 1:38:29 PM, Storman Norman (95 Cherokee) wrote:
> I am a 1995 Jeep cherokee with a track lock diff. looking to go to a
> extreme lift. Does any one know of a company that can twist up a set of
> weight specific coils that can take me to 6"+ without blocking.. My fall
> back is Tomken But I am conserned with a stiff ride.. Has anyone put a
> Tomken 6" lift in (How is the ride?? Did you run into any problems ie..
> Drive line Vibrations or extreme bump steer?? How did you fix??
> ...Thanks..Storman Norman...
I`m running Rubicon Express 4.5" coils with Tera 1.5" poly spacers up front.
In the rear, I run Rancho`s 1.5" add-a-leaf, ~3.5" lift blocks from an old Dodge
W-200 and a pair of Comanche shackles. The ride is better than the Rancho
2.5" coils that were on my XJ when I got it and seems as soft - or softer -
than the stock XJ`s I`ve riden in.
I did have to relocate the track bar (a better option is an adjustable one).
You`ll need to do something with the track bar for any lift over 3" IMHO.
I`m still running stock driveshafts - but then I have an `86 XJ with an automatic
which has the longest rear driveshaft of any of the XJ`s AFAIK. With a `95,
you`d be wise to count on lengthening the rear driveshaft if you`re going >4".
A slip yoke eliminator is a wise idea while you`re at it, as this will allow you
to run an even longer rear shaft.
A good friend runs Trailmaster`s 4" coils (ONLY - not their drop brackets) and
Tomken`s 2" steel spacers along with Tomken`s 6" rear suspension. His XJ
rides taller and stiffer than mine does and mine flexes better.
Longrun
http://www.off-road.com/~tamers/134.html |
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jody___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 12/14/1998 2:18 PM |
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On 12/12/98 11:29:49 AM, wrote:
>I need some more info. Motor, trans, etc. In any case you are going to have to pull the Transer case, transmission, clutch assembly, bellhousing, starter etc. just to get to it. Then the oil pan will have to come off. You will also have to loosen the bearing caps on the crank to get the upper half of the seal replaced. Its alot of work, but its cheaper than paying someone else to do it. Hope this helps, If you need more info, you can e-mail me at the adress above. Jody
Need to fix rear main seal,need help! |
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jody___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 12/14/1998 2:26 PM |
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On 12/8/98 11:35:22 PM, David wrote:
>For the transmission, you will have to check your local recking yards or ask around. For the locker, the Detroit EZ locker is cheaper than the lock rite and performs as well. For the lift, that is a matter of ppersonal preference. You can use just about any good company, I personally prefer any of Soft ride kits available from, Superlift, Warn Black diamond, etc. The winch depends on how much you use it. For continuous use I prefer the Warn 8000xi As ramseys are quite slow as far as line speed goes. You may want to rethink putting a locker in the Dana 27 front end as they are prone to breakage with lockers.(small axles and weak R&Ps) Hope this helps. Jody
I have many questions about my CJ project Jeep. I have a 1970 CJ5 in
> original condition. Although it is a good four-wheel drive, I want to
> change a few things. I would like to put a Lock Right or similar locker in
> the Dana 44 back and the Dana 27A in the front. Also, I would like a 2
> 1/2" Superlift with 31X9.5" tires. Another project includes swapping the
> T-86AA tranny with an SM420. Finally, putting a 800lb winch on. Anyone
> have some ideas for any of these projects or know of places that I can find
> any of these really cheap? |
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jody___
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| 12/14/1998 2:34 PM |
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On 12/6/98 5:00:37 PM, Preston J. Welch wrote:
>"The Jeep owners bible" by Moses Ludel has some great information on all years of Jeeps and is a great resource for buying a used Jeep! Jody
I was driving past a used car lot yesterday and saw an old Jeep, probably
> late 60`s. I was just wondering what I should look for in an old jeep
> like that. I don`t know anything about them. This one had some holes in
> the floorboards and some minor corrosion in other spots. The engine looks
> pretty clean except it was missing the air cleaner assy. I didn`t test
> drive it, so I don`t know how it runs. Any input as to what to look for
> when buying a jeep would be appreciated. thanks. |
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Curt___
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| 12/16/1998 10:01 PM |
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On 12/14/98 7:46:57 PM, rob wrote:
> I have an 83 CJ5 with a model 20 rearend with one peace axles
and a
> detroit locker,Dana 30 front open diff with a 4in spring lift.
Will these
> axles handle 35`s and if so will this lift clear them? It curently
has
> 33`s with 4.56`s in both ends.
Any help is appreciated.
Rob
I have a CJ-7 with the same axles, gears and tires. I run Detroit lockers at both ends. My rockcrawling partner has a wrangler with a dana 35 rear and the dana 30 front. He runs 4.56 gears and 35in. tires and on 2 occasions in the last year he has snapped the front axle U-joint under extreme conditions. The corprate 20 axle is a strong unit, some say stronger than a dana 44, if built right. I`m going to go to 35in. tires as soon as I finish the lift, and I`m going to keep my axles. It will really depend on how you use the vehicle. |
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unknown___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 12/21/1998 5:56 PM |
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On 12/19/98 10:08:14 PM, chris wrote:
> I have an 89 wrangler with the 258 engine and the 3 speed auto. I am
> trying to determine the rear axle ratio and also the ratios for the 3 speed
> Auto. I was not able to find a tag on the rear axle. After some reading,
> I think that the rear would have been stock from the factory at 3.73, but I
> am not sure. How about the vin number, could that be decoded to find out
> the reat axle ratio???? Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 90 with a ratio of 3.07 and i think the highest ratio was 3.55 stock |
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andy___
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| 12/22/1998 9:06 AM |
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| I installed a Detroit Easy-Locker in the front Dana 30 on my `98 TJ
about 3 weeks ago. It installed easily (about 2.5 hours) and works
extremely well off-road. There is very little noticeable effect on
my on road drivability. My steering seems to be unaffected and I
only hear the associated locking noise occasionally. Next week
I will be installing a Detroit Locker in the rear Dana 44. I run
35" Boggers and mostly rock crawl in Tellico. After looking around
and having had Detroit Lockers in all my previous jeeps, this
seemed to be the way to go. |
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Jeeper2___
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| 12/22/1998 2:27 PM |
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I have an 86 CJ7, same transmission which is a Torqueflite 999 with a 2.74 1st gear, 1.45 2nd, and 1.00 3rd. My rear axle has a 2.73 ring & pinion... all is stock and this is a CA Jeep.
Hope that helps,
Jeeper2
Jeeper2@excite.com
86 CJ7/258/HEI/T999/OE Dana 44 rear axle
P.S. I don`t think you`ll be able to ger the R&P off the vin.
On 12/21/98 5:56:27 PM, wrote:
> On 12/19/98 10:08:14 PM, chris wrote:
> I have an 89 wrangler with the
> 258 engine and the 3 speed auto. I am
> trying to determine the rear
> axle ratio and also the ratios for the 3 speed
> Auto. I was not able to
> find a tag on the rear axle. After some reading,
> I think that the rear
> would have been stock from the factory at 3.73, but I
> am not sure.
> How about the vin number, could that be decoded to find out
> the reat
> axle ratio???? Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 90 with a ratio
> of 3.07 and i think the highest ratio was 3.55 stock |
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John___
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| 12/27/1998 10:46 AM |
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On 12/26/98 9:36:39 AM, mike w. wrote:
> what is the largest size tire i can put on a 95 wrangler without lifting
> the body or suspension.
I had 30x9.50 15 BFG All Terrains on my stock Wrangler. Perfect fit.
JD |
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unknown___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 12/27/1998 6:55 PM |
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| On 12/26/98 9:36:39 AM, mike w. wrote:
> what is the largest size tire i can put on a 95 wrangler without lifting
> the body or suspension. |
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Chris___
 Bone Stock Posts:0
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| 12/27/1998 6:57 PM |
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On 12/26/98 9:36:39 AM, mike w. wrote:
> what is the largest size tire i can put on a 95 wrangler without lifting
> the body or suspension.
for what it is worth, i just put new tires on my 89 wrangler, they are metric, 235 75 R15, tire store told me that was the largest I could go and not have problems, but I am not sure |
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Jonathan_Marleau___
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| 01/04/1999 11:57 AM |
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| see my post above, in 94 YJ Lift. |
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Rick_W___
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| 01/11/1999 12:30 AM |
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| Dave,
There is a place here in Tucson that seems to be one of the foremost experts on anything Jeep. The company is called WillysWorks. Their phone number is: 520-888-5082. Ask for Rob and tell them Rick Webster from 4X4REVIEW.COM sent you. If anyone would know, he would.
Good luck,
Rick
On 1/3/99 1:01:25 AM, Dave wrote:
> I have an old 1970 CJ5 with an Oil Bath air cleaner for the carb. I am
> trying to find a air cleaner conversion to a paper air cleaner for my carb.
> Does anyone know where to find a conversion kit or who I can ask? Thanks. |
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Rick_W___
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| 01/16/1999 12:21 AM |
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This may sound silly but...
To do a really easy test to see if it`s chaffed wires... turn the ignition on until you get a reading on the gauge. Then have someone shake and kick your rig (preferably on the bumpers or nerf-bars or some other really solid place) and see if it happens then. If so, you probably have some wires that are worn through and need to be fixed.
If not... try unplugging the wires on the guage and plugging them into another. You shouldn`t have to take the guage out, just plug it into another and have someone hold it while you drive around. If it stops, then you know it`s your guage. If not, it`s probably in the sending unit but that`s a little harder to fix.
Any one else have suggestions???
Rick.
On 1/13/99 9:27:50 PM, C. Norris wrote:
> My gas gauge on my 89 wrangler is bouncing around continuously once the
> Jeep has been moved and started. It is more of an inconvenience than
> anything but, as that is the only thing wrong with the Jeep I thought I
> would fix it.
Is this a gauge problem or the gas tank sending unit??
> And would it be something that I could easily fix?? Any advice would be
> very helpful. |
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roger___
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| 01/21/1999 1:39 PM |
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On 1/12/99 8:25:50 AM, Duane Hall wrote:
> Can anyone tell me exactly how the shift motors work on the front end of a
> Jeep Wrangler/Cherokee?
Here`s what I know...
The motor is vacuum actuated. When you shift into 4wd, the vacuum slides a coupler to connect the two sections of the axle shaft together. I`ve read that this setup can suffer from vacuum leaks as well as gunk build-up that prevents the coupler from sliding. I`ve yet to have a problem with my 93 Wrangler, though.
Hope this helps.
-Roger
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D._Scott___
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| 01/22/1999 11:00 PM |
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I`ve got a 91 yj with the 4.0 and my girlfriend has a 93 with the 2.5L engine
and they both have fluctuated like yours since they were new. I know my
Toy. MR2 has does not use the direct relay reostat (?sp) like the jeeps do. The
sender has some kind of delay where changes in the fuel level are slowed
so the meter will not shift with changes in incline and when turning...
I know of nothing to fix it unless you were to swap in a different manufacturers
fuel sending unit. However, if you did this, the unit is in the tank by the way, you
would have to find one with the same resistance measurements as the Jeep, (I`m
not sure what they are but I`ve seen them published on the net and I think they`re
in the manual) or you`d have to swap out everything from the measuring device
to the gauge to get correct measurements.
All this just to keep your gauge from bouncing... |
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JohnC___
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| 01/24/1999 6:11 PM |
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On 1/24/99 9:44:23 AM, Marnie wrote:
> I know that my 89 Jeep has the command track transfer case and that you
> are not supposed to engage the front axle on pavement bacause of potential
> damage to the unit. Iknow (think?) that the transfer case turns both
> driveshafts at the same speed when it is in four wheel drive.
My
> question is this... Doesnt the front axle ratio HAVE to match the rear
> ratio??? If I have a 3.55 rear axle ratio doesnt that mean that the front
> is the same?? Otherwise, I would think that a dirrerent ratio would out
> too much strain on the driveline even when off road.
It is important for the ratios to match but don`t get concerned if they are 1 point off.
For example 3.55 will be ok with 3.54. What causes the problems is that the front axle travels
a longer distance than the rear when going round a curve. This will result in Transmission Windup
which on soft or slippery conditions is relieved by a little unnoticed wheel slip. On hard
ground or pavement this cannot happen and puts a great strain on the drive train. This
is one reason that there is so much drive line breakage when rock crawling. |
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Fatboy___
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| 01/27/1999 11:42 AM |
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On 1/25/99 3:02:30 PM, David wrote:
> I have a stock 1970 CJ5 that I would like to put a Superlift SuperRide 2.5"
> lift on. I would like to know what type of backspacing is needed to limit
> the rubbing of tires on the inside of the wheelwell for 31X10.50 tires.
> Also, I don`t have a pitman arm on my steering, so will the new suspension
> cause a problem with the steering. Finally, will the lift have a bad
> effect on the driveline angle since the CJ5 has a short front drive shaft? Thanks.
I don`t think you will have any problems with the 31`s, you might need to lenghthen the frnt driveline if you like to twist it up. I ran 31`s on my 75 with a 2.5 lift for several years. I even went up the Rubicon with them ONCE. Good luck-the Fatboy
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unknown___
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| 02/02/1999 6:08 PM |
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On 1/28/99 7:33:28 PM, Erik wrote:
>Erik, If you can find a wrecked YJ with power steering with the same motor as yours, all of the parts are a direct bolt on. The model years don`t have to be the same, all of the YJs used the same pump, steering box and brackets for the specific engines they were on. Check the junk yards in your area and you should be able to find all of the parts you need. Jody
Does anyone have any info on a power steering conversion for a 95
> Wrangler? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks |
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unknown___
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| 02/19/1999 5:32 PM |
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On 12/14/98 7:46:57 PM, rob wrote:
> I have an 83 CJ5 with a model 20 rearend with one peace axles
and a
> detroit locker,Dana 30 front open diff with a 4in spring lift.
Will these
> axles handle 35`s and if so will this lift clear them? It curently
has
> 33`s with 4.56`s in both ends.
Any help is appreciated.
Rob |
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PorchPuppy___
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| 03/21/1999 8:55 AM |
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On 3/13/99 11:32:33 PM, Bryan wrote:
>
If my jeep didnt come with power steering can i get the parts from one
> thats wrecked and it work out easy or would it be a hastle
thanks
bryan
Bryan I am no expert. But I have help do several such convertions.
The biggest problem I have seen is finding the proper bracket for
monting the pump. If you take it off the same year and motor as yours
it is just a swap out. If not you may have to modify the mointing
bracket. Good luck.
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Fatboy___
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| 03/21/1999 11:29 AM |
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On 3/15/99 9:46:30 PM, Aaron wrote:
> I`m planning on putting a 2" body lift on with 30x9.5" tires. I want some
> extra help in the mud. I am looking into a locking differentials. I`m
> gonna put one in the rear first since I`ve heard not to put one in the
> front unless you do some serious offroading. I don`t know which brand to
> buy, and I also want to know what kind of problems people are having with
> them if any. Right now I`m leaning towards the Power Trax Lock Right which
> is automatic instead of a manual locking diff. I want as many opinions as
> possible, because I want to make the best decision for my Jeep,
The Lock-Right locker will work just fine for the mud, but they can break. For a couple of c-notes you can buy a Detroit and never have to worry about it again. Good luck!--the Fatboy |
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Norris___
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| 03/23/1999 6:22 PM |
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Take a look at http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/diffs.htm.
I found more information than I could ever want about various locking differentials, pro and cons of just about every make and model.
That may help you in your decision. |
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Aaron___
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| 03/27/1999 1:56 PM |
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On 3/24/99 2:10:41 AM, jacob barrio wrote:
> What is the fastest and cheapest way to increase my wrangler`s power?
> Considering it has about 96 thousand miles on it.
The best thing I can recommend is definitely get a K&N Filter that`ll help some. Make sure you get a tune up if you haven`t already. You can try platinum`s or do the new Splitfire3 and they`re cables if you didn`t yet. Mine has 91K miles and the filter will do a little. |
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caw___
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| 04/05/1999 6:17 PM |
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I have the 31X10.5 Pirelli Scorp A/Ts. They are fine on the road and good on dry land, rock, etc. Over 14K on them and the tread looks great still. They do very poor in mud. The wheels pack very easy and you loose traction fast. I do not have a lift and at full articulation, I do not rub. You will only need a lift if you go with disconnects. For the trails the 10.5 will do you better. I am currently getting 31X10.5 BFG muds. Overall, from what I have seen, for a Jeep, the muds are a better tire. Hope this helps.
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unknown___
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| 04/07/1999 10:13 PM |
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You have absolutely no lift of any kind at all? What year is it?
On 4/5/99 6:17:11 PM, caw wrote:
> I have the 31X10.5 Pirelli Scorp A/Ts. They are fine on the road and good
> on dry land, rock, etc. Over 14K on them and the tread looks great still.
> They do very poor in mud. The wheels pack very easy and you loose traction
> fast. I do not have a lift and at full articulation, I do not rub. You will
> only need a lift if you go with disconnects. For the trails the 10.5 will
> do you better. I am currently getting 31X10.5 BFG muds. Overall, from what
> I have seen, for a Jeep, the muds are a better tire. Hope this helps.
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caw___
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| 04/12/1999 4:17 PM |
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On 4/7/99 10:13:11 PM, wrote:
> You have absolutely no lift of any kind at all? What year is it?
Sorry, should of included it in the original post. I have 98Tj. I was just off-roading this weekend. I had the wheels stuffed as much as I could and no problems. If I had disconnects, I would of rubbed some. |
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unknown___
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| 04/12/1999 9:38 PM |
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On 4/12/99 4:17:24 PM, caw wrote:
> On 4/7/99 10:13:11 PM, wrote:
> You have absolutely no lift of any kind
> at all? What year is it?
Sorry, should of included it in the original
> post. I have 98Tj. I was just off-roading this weekend. I had the wheels
> stuffed as much as I could and no problems. If I had disconnects, I would
> of rubbed some.
I should have no problem then...cool. |
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