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MBRC
Bone Stock
Posts:3
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| 10/13/2004 12:01 AM |
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| Hey I would like to know if anyone has converted a 89 2 wheel drive ford truck to a 4 wheel drive? |
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Wayne Jolliff |
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sublmnl1990
Body Lift
Posts:195
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| 10/13/2004 4:10 PM |
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The easiest way to do this is to by a donor 4x4 and build the suspension and running gear on the donor frame, this way you still have you truck to drive, once you get the frame straight then you pull your cab off set it aside swap out the motor and put your body on the new frame and presto 4x4. you could get lucky and put the donor truck body on your frame and make some cash back. Now I have helped convert a 2wd F-150 to a 4x4 but we still had a donor truck and we pulled what we needed to set it all up it took a couple of days and in the end it seemed like it would have been easier to swap out the whole frame. It depends on what you have if you do not have a donor truck you will be getting odds and ends all the time (ie cross members, brackets, linkage etc.) Let me know if you have a specific question and I will get an answer for you.
Good Luck Nick |
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You know it's going to be a good day when you get the milk to cereal ratio correct on the first bowl. |
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MBRC
Bone Stock
Posts:3
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| 10/16/2004 12:57 PM |
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| Well do you know if the frames are the same size? I have all the parts.I got them from a bint frame. I heard they are. I just don't want to tear it all apart if they are not. |
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Wayne Jolliff |
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sublmnl1990
Body Lift
Posts:195
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| 10/18/2004 5:33 PM |
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| I am checking this out with some buddies, I do believe it will work you may have to drill some extra holes but I will get back w/ you asap, nick |
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You know it's going to be a good day when you get the milk to cereal ratio correct on the first bowl. |
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MBRC
Bone Stock
Posts:3
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| 10/18/2004 8:15 PM |
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| That would be awsome. Thanks alot |
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Wayne Jolliff |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 10/19/2004 2:19 PM |
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MBRC,
Not sure if this will help, but we've just released a new Feature Article on the site that may help you with your conversion. It's "front axle" specific, but may be something that will help guide you along in some areas.
http://www.4x4review.com/feature/AxleConversion/default.asp - "How To Convert A Front Axle - The in's and out's, the oops and the gotcha's!"
Rick |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
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'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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sublmnl1990
Body Lift
Posts:195
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| 10/19/2004 7:44 PM |
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| I am still tring to get a hold of my buddies so I will ask you to check some things.First you should have a friend park his 4x4 ford next to yours and look at one particular item at a time and see if there are differences. I know on a chevy that the steering boxes are different I do believe the bolt pattern is the same though. I am assuming this is a f-150, you will need to check the spring buckets for the coils they may be different in width as well as height. On a chevy the floor pan over the trans and transfer case are different and we had to swap this out. (note a body lift would have solved this problem but we didnt want one). Of course the other things like are you swapping trannies, is the new one from the same motor and or even the same type, if different you may have some linkage work to do.. Look at were the cross member for the transfer case mounts you may be able to chisel off the rivits and use some grade 8 bolts to bolt it up to the new truck. Did you get the rear drive shaft from the donor truck the length of this will change. I would also take pictures of a 4x4 to keep as reference so you can look back at them if you buddies truck isnt around. (and again I am assuming you probably have a buddy with a 4x4 like you are building, if not ask some one with a 4x4 we are generally good people and he probably would not have any objections to some pictures for help) You really should get a truck that is set up they way you are going so you can get all the measurments and parts locations you can. As always measure twice cut once. good luck I will get back to you as soon as I get one of my ford buddies out from under his truck, (yes I am a chevy guy but a trucks a truck) Nick |
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You know it's going to be a good day when you get the milk to cereal ratio correct on the first bowl. |
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sublmnl1990
Body Lift
Posts:195
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| 10/20/2004 9:56 AM |
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| My first source tells me the frames are different on these vehicles do you have access to a 4x4 of the same year to see if you can tell? I will check into this further L8r Nick |
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You know it's going to be a good day when you get the milk to cereal ratio correct on the first bowl. |
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sublmnl1990
Body Lift
Posts:195
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| 10/20/2004 5:49 PM |
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Hey I found this article it should help
here is a link the story is below
http://www.bigblocksix.com/Dan/4x4_Convert.html
2x4 to 4x4 for ’80 to ’96 F-100/150’s
By: Dan MacDonald
The most asked question I get asked about the conversions is “Was is hard to do?” Well, depends what you call hard. If you are pretty good with a socket and ratchet, it should be no prob. I might add, if you do have access to any pneumatic tools...that would greatly speed up the process with the stubborn nuts and bolts. OK...the conversion in a nut shell.
To start, its all 100% bolt up. Except for the hole you have to cut in the floor for the shifter. All you do is pull tires off, then the shocks, the springs with a long extension and a (I think) 1 1/4 socket. Then you take off the pivot bolt on one side and undo the radius arm nut (1 1/4 socket) and take the one side off. Then do the same to the other. The new axle is a little harder to manhandle because of the shear weight. The dang thing is heavy! You will need 2 jacks and some good friends! I really can’t remember the way I put it back in so you will have to see what works good for you. I would get the radius arms in first and get the nut started. Don’t tighten it till you get the pivot bolts in....gives you a little more movement. (On a side note I would suggest getting eccentric radius arm bushings...makes aligning the thing better....one major draw back to the TTB...you can pick em up at any NAPA or other reputable parts store) But once you get it in you can drive on it till you get your transfer case worked out. Steering will bolt right up and it should give you about a 1 to 2 inch lift on the front.
On to the rear.....I am going to make a suggestion that I didn't do that will save lots of headaches. You will need to get the factory blocks that go between the axle and the springs to level the back end to the front. But what I didn't do is swap out the springs and spring brackets......bad move...if you ever want to get a suspension lift it makes it complicated. (The 4x4 springs are a little wider than the 2x4 springs in the rear. So that is why you will have to knock off the rivets with a torch or an air hamer....or even grind em if you are brave enough, and put the new ones on with grade 8 bolts....should just bolt right up.)
The rear driveshaft needs to be shortened some to make room for the transfercase but a good drive shaft shop should be able to tell you how to measure the distance you need. Then with that they can shorten it for a fairly reasonable price.
The transfer case...the hardest part of the conversion. OK...well what I did is that I liked my c-6 that I had and I wanted to still use it. So I pulled the tranny and talked to a local tranny shop about it and he said that he could swap out the output shaft to a shorter one and also put the adapter (transfer case end cone that can be picked up at the dealer.) that the T-case bolts up to on the tranny. OR you can find a tranny/T-case combo too. BUT I would suggest that the shop do it, unless that you have experience rebuilding, because you have to totally disassemble the tranny to swap the output shaft and install the T-case adapter. Have em look at it to make sure that your tranny is in good working order too while you have it out and apart. (IF you don't already..and if you even have a C-6...i would strongly suggest the B&M Street and strip shift kit....really lights it up and its really easy to install)
You will also need to swap out the cross member to make room for the front drive shaft. But its as easy as unbolting one and bolting the other up.
As for the hole in the floor....you will need to have another 4x4 near by to measure...that is what i did.....go small and if you have to you can widen the hole bigger....measure twice and cut once!!!!!!! You will need to take the seat out and drill 4 holes to start the jig saw. Its really not as hard as it sounds.
The linkage is pretty much straight forward. What else...... what I did and further added that stock look, is that I got the 4x4 light to work in my dash! Ford put the 4x4 dash light filter in there even in the 2x4's, soo all you have to do is get the wire and light socket out of a truck and pull the dash and connect it to a positive and then hook it up to the T-cases terminal. All the switch does it that is grounds out the terminal when you are in 4WD. Its real simple and people will love it!!! Also lets you know exactly how many axles you are using! Makes you look good.
Hum...well, all I guess that is left is to make sure that the t-case and the axle are in good shape. You have 3 main bearings in the spindle of the Dana 44. The outer, the inner wheel bearings and then there is another on the shaft its self by the u-joint.....that is the one that got me in trouble. I blew that one and it started blowing my hubs out. It centers the shaft in the hub and without that working right, it wobbles and goes to making spaghetti out of an $80 pair of Warren premiums! BUT I have to complement Warren in backing up their product because I have a bran spanking new pair they sent me to replace the ones that broke.....Now that is customer service! Also make sure you change the gear oil and other basic things like ball joints, and R & P’s. ALSO....almost forgot a biggie! Make sure your axle ratios are the same! If you have, lets say 3.08 (which I have and may make a suggestion.....i would believe with the conversion you will be doing, a nice new set of (at least) 4.10's would be lots better!) gears in the rear.....the front needs to be the same. Or you will really test the strength of your drivetrain.
I might have left out some stuff but you should get the general picture. If you do decide to do the conversion, you will be pleasantly surprised on the performance you will gain. Get a good set of mud tires and you are on your way to driving across those tricky ponds that have been laughing at you all this time!
Dan “Mudinford” MacDonald
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You know it's going to be a good day when you get the milk to cereal ratio correct on the first bowl. |
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sublmnl1990
Body Lift
Posts:195
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| 10/25/2004 6:10 PM |
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| I did talk to another ford dude and he believes the cross member where to ttb mounts may be different from 2wd to 4wd he suggest you go with a straight axle from a pre 80 you will get a better ride that is what he has always done so that is why he is not positive if the cross member is a match. Nick |
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You know it's going to be a good day when you get the milk to cereal ratio correct on the first bowl. |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 10/25/2004 10:45 PM |
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DEFINATELY go with a solid front axle. It's TONS easier to mount, setup, keep true, etc. The ride will be a bit more stiff, but a good set of springs will soften it up considerably.
Rick |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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