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pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
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| 07/17/2007 6:34 AM |
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ok. now that i have the engine rebuilt and everything....another problem pops up. usually, id be able to find the problem... but i cant figure it out on this one. ive even researched about it for awile and still cant find out what it is!
i am not getting spark. i replaced the ignition coil and distributor and tested the ignition module on the distributor. im not getting spark when i hook up a spark plug to the coil wire either. i have 12 volts positive going to the coil, but i dunno whats up with the negative wire. when i unplug the negative wire i get 12 volts negative, when i plug in the wire (same wire) i get 12 volts positive... dont know if its supposed to do this.
so, my pick up sensor must be good. the module is good. and i just bought the ignition coil. i tested all the wires going to the distributor and they all have power
can anyone help me here?
edit: i also tried to put a negative wire strait to the distributor from battery and it didnt help, actually all that happend was the wire burnt up and got really hot. |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 07/17/2007 6:59 PM |
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Hey Pmip... couple questions
1) You wrote: "I replaced the ignition coil and distributor and tested the ignition module on the distributor." - what we're the test results of the test on the ignition module? I'm assuming it passed, but you didn't say that and I just want to be sure.
2) Have you done an ohms / resistance test on your spark plug wires? If so, what are the high and low readings? (that is, what was the highest ohm reading and what was the lowest on each?)
3) What is the year, make and model of your truck, and what type of engine do you have?
4) Maybe I'm overly tired, and don't understand what you're writing here, but you said that you're reading 12 volts negative, and 12 volt positive. A volt is a volt, I don't know how you could measure "negative voltage". Can you elaborate?
As far as a negative wire going from the battery to the distributor... did you run a wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the ground terminal on the distributor? If you ran a wire from the positive terminal of the distributor to the negative terminal, you probably smoked something (aside from the wire).
Also, if you melted a wire, than means that you have a short in the circuit that you just ran (e.g. you're completing the round-trip circuit from positive to negative terminals of the batter... essentially).
Rick |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
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'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 07/17/2007 7:06 PM |
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I did some digging and found the following technical / electrical information that might help...
Ignition Coil testing / information: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/18/73/0900823d800a1873/repairInfoPages.htm
Distributor R&R/Testing information: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/18/a0/0900823d800a18a0/repairInfoPages.htm
Rick |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
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| 07/17/2007 10:45 PM |
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yeah after alot of resaerch i realized i did alot of things wrong and now i understand a little more how this ignition system works. its an 88 f150 with a 351 windsor engine the module passed but i replaced it anyways.
well, i have new coil, module, and distributor now. i put a test light up to the tach side of terminal and a good ground. the light wasn't flashing as i was told it was supposed to(the key on wire is working on the terminal, so the light just stays on while the engine is turning over. it should pulse.). i pulled out the spout and it made no difference. still have the problem "no spark coming out of the ignition coil".
disregard the tach wire thing i was talking about earlier. i didnt know how it worked at first. |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 07/17/2007 10:49 PM |
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well... unless the engine is running, the light won't pulse on the tach port. It's metered off of a spinning distributor, with a RUN signal, not a cranking signal. I think...
Rick |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
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| 07/18/2007 5:02 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by webby4x4
well... unless the engine is running, the light won't pulse on the tach port. It's metered off of a spinning distributor, with a RUN signal, not a cranking signal. I think...
Rick
There is a pulse off of the distributor via magnetic reluctance whenever it rotates so it would have output at cranking speeds. Check magnetic pick coil in distributor and make sure it is right one and correctly hooked up too. |
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Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
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pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
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| 07/18/2007 12:02 PM |
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| yeah its the right one. this problem has ben going on a long while and i couldnt figure out the problem with it so i just let the dealer look at it. i told them to run tests on it. before they start any repairs they need to get my approval. i pretty much replaced all the parts, so i figured that theres something wrong with the wiring harness. but i checked the the ignition module harness with help from a haynes manual and it was fine. and the tach wire leading to the coil from the harness is good, no breaks in it. so i dont know whats wrong. thats why i took it to the dealer. ill let yall know whats wrong when i find out. |
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pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
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| 07/19/2007 2:58 PM |
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the dealership as of now (after their diagnostic tests) is saying it is probably a grounded out wire in the ignition system, which i figured it was but i couldnt find out for sure. and they are saying its so old that they dont have a wiring diagram for the truck (which i thought the system was a lot less confusing system compared to the duraspark systems with the igntion module off distributor =0 ).
but if fords are built *FORD TUFF* and are supposed to last....shouldnt they be expecting older trucks to come in too? just my opinion. but they're still working on it. probably having a load of fun =) |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 07/19/2007 8:27 PM |
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Check your local library, they'll likely have a wiring diagram that you can photocopy. Either that, or grab a Chilton's manual from your local auto parts store, they have stuff going back to the late 60's.
Good luck! |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
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| 07/21/2007 7:58 PM |
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yeah. tell the dealership that hehe. but they got it firing, but now there having trouble setting the timing because there is no harmonic balancer or something,but there still going to do it, but anyways, im going to ask them what the problem was when i go pick up the truck on monday. thanks for all the replys!
o yeah and thanks for the links too. |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 07/22/2007 11:34 AM |
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Well, there really has to be a harmonic balancer... I suppose someone could rig up a way to put an engine together without one, but...
I think what they meant to tell you was either:
A) There is no timing tape or timing marks on the harmonic balancer.
B) There is no harmonic balancer pointer (the index tab or wire that points to the timing marks on the harmonic balancer).
Find out which, and I'll let you know what to do to remedy that.
Rick |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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pmipmatt73
Street Queen
Posts:115
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| 07/23/2007 11:55 AM |
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yeah i guess they are talking about the pointer since i did not see any of that or did i see a timing mark tape, but i wouldnt know anything about the harmonic balancer because i set the timing by setting the number 1 piston at tdc and point the rotor towards number 1 (advanced a little bit), and have the harness connector on the distributor point the same way it always does. might not be *perfect* but it works for me. but i didnt see a pointer or timing marks anywhere.
and yes the reason for the no spark condition was because of a wire grounding out, probably from me putting in the wiring harness with a wire i didnt see touching the engine. i shouldof put eletrical tape around the wires that could-of burnt out. |
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