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fordman
Bone Stock
Posts:3
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| 11/28/2004 12:38 PM |
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| I have had a 94 F-150 for about 6 years. Everytime I thought I'd have the money to modify the suspension, something else would come up. Now, I have the money set aside. I would like to lift 4 in. of suspension and 2 in. of body. I'd also like to run 38 in. tires. What would be the best kit that has everything I need to complete the lift. I have all the tools and the shop to do the work. I just need some guidance on which kit. Also, what ratio gear would be best for his particular application? |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 11/29/2004 1:43 PM |
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Hey Nathan,
There are a few manufacturers of some decent lift kits out there. Skyjacker, Superlift and other make both 4 and 6" lift kits for your truck. Most are about the same as far as spring rate goes and since most of the medium grade shocks are made by one of two major manufacturers, you won't see much of a difference there either. You can always upgrade your shocks based upon your need later and just go with the el-cheapo stock ones that they come with for a while. See our article on "Being a Shock Genius" at: http://www.4x4review.com/feature/shock-genius.asp
The type of lift you want will really depend upon the type of wheeling you'll do, how much you'll do it and how much time it will spend on the road, compounded by the amount of extra weight you have in your truck (e.g. winch, roll cage, etc.). As a general rule of thumb, I typically try and find the lift kit with the lowest spring rate possible, to give me the best ride quality.
Since this is a pickup truck, new re-arched rear springs will offer a substantially bumpier ride, so you'll have the option of going with lift blocks in the rear if you want to retain the stock suspension ride. However, blocks are, in my humble opinion, the cheap way out and can cause spring-wrap / safety problems too. This is an argument you'll have to have with yourself and decide what it more important to you... soft ride in the rear, or less spring wrap.
If money wasn't an issue, I'd do springs all the way around and have custom springs made by someone like Alcan. If this is something you want to consider, let me know and I can point out some things you can do before hand... Otherwise, you can do a front spring / rear block lift kit and upgrade the rear springs with custom ones later.
By the way, a 6" lift kit should clear 36" tires and with a 2" body lift, you should fit your 38's just fine.
As far as gearing goes... I'll need to know what your original tire size and stock gear ratios are. From there I can calculate what will bring you back to stock gearing.
Rick |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
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'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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fordman
Bone Stock
Posts:3
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| 11/29/2004 8:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by webby4x4
Hey Nathan,
There are a few manufacturers of some decent lift kits out there. Skyjacker, Superlift and other make both 4 and 6" lift kits for your truck. Most are about the same as far as spring rate goes and since most of the medium grade shocks are made by one of two major manufacturers, you won't see much of a difference there either. You can always upgrade your shocks based upon your need later and just go with the el-cheapo stock ones that they come with for a while. See our article on "Being a Shock Genius" at: http://www.4x4review.com/feature/shock-genius.asp
The type of lift you want will really depend upon the type of wheeling you'll do, how much you'll do it and how much time it will spend on the road, compounded by the amount of extra weight you have in your truck (e.g. winch, roll cage, etc.). As a general rule of thumb, I typically try and find the lift kit with the lowest spring rate possible, to give me the best ride quality.
Since this is a pickup truck, new re-arched rear springs will offer a substantially bumpier ride, so you'll have the option of going with lift blocks in the rear if you want to retain the stock suspension ride. However, blocks are, in my humble opinion, the cheap way out and can cause spring-wrap / safety problems too. This is an argument you'll have to have with yourself and decide what it more important to you... soft ride in the rear, or less spring wrap.
If money wasn't an issue, I'd do springs all the way around and have custom springs made by someone like Alcan. If this is something you want to consider, let me know and I can point out some things you can do before hand... Otherwise, you can do a front spring / rear block lift kit and upgrade the rear springs with custom ones later.
By the way, a 6" lift kit should clear 36" tires and with a 2" body lift, you should fit your 38's just fine.
As far as gearing goes... I'll need to know what your original tire size and stock gear ratios are. From there I can calculate what will bring you back to stock gearing.
Rick
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fordman
Bone Stock
Posts:3
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| 11/29/2004 8:22 PM |
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| Sorry about that. My truck does a lot of pulling boats and campers and things. Not in the mud or rocks except during deer season, about 3 months. Then, it goes through some serious stuff, for the North Georgia area any way. The stock gears are 3:55 w/ anti-slip diff, with a Dana 44 up front and a Ford 8.8 in the rear. I know I shouldn't really be pulling anything with a lifted truck, that's why I want the strongest components I can get. |
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sublmnl1990
Body Lift
Posts:195
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| 11/30/2004 7:17 PM |
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| A half ton and 38's is not the best combo, then adding a trailer? I would not go higher than a 35 with a half ton, I know others do it all the time but they dont mind changing out tie rods u joints etc... Do a 4" w/ no body lift you can still run the 35s or if you drop to a 33, you might get away with out a gear change. Spend the extra bucks and get the new rear springs, I would see if you can get the f-250 or f-350 rear springs, take some measurements of the spring widths and see if you cant go with them. The thing about fords is they come with a factory rear block and if you order a lift with out the new springs you get another block to add to the one allready there, Now I have allways been told this is a nono (stacking blocks) and yet the fords and dodge lifts do it all the time. Are you pulling heavy loads how does the rear act now when the trailer is on, does it squat bad in the rear? 38"s and towing with a half ton can't be a safe or good combonation. But thats my opinion,
Good Luck Nick |
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You know it's going to be a good day when you get the milk to cereal ratio correct on the first bowl. |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 12/01/2004 12:23 AM |
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I agree with sublmnl on this one... If I had my druthers, I'd go with 35's and then swap out the gears for 3.88's if you're currently running 32" equivalents. If you're running 31" equivalents, then go with 4.01 gears.
Stacking blocks is a SERIOUS infraction of one's cool factor and can lead to some serious saftey issues. (Good call Sublmnl on the stock blocks, I forgot about that).
The D44 and Ford 8.8 are pretty darn good axles so I wouldn't much with them if they work for you now, especially given the type of off roading you do. But I think given your needs (lots of towing), I would stay with smaller tires so you don't have to adapt for all of the lift to fit a trailer to your rig.
Anyhow, those are my thoughts.
Rick |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
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'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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fordmudder1985
Bone Stock
Posts:3
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| 12/17/2007 3:04 PM |
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| hey im new to here and i was reading your post, i have a 94' ford as well it has a 6inch suspension lift from procomp, and i did a 6inch body. i also run 38inch tires with 4.88 gears and i tow with my truck and i have never had any problems with it at all, and i have yet to replace tie rod ends nor u-joints. im sorry i just feel opposite of the guy that says 1/2 ton trucks and 38" tires isnt good, every truck that runs 35's or 33's can't even go through my ruts they have to stradle them so as far as tires go...........38's are awesome but you are going to have to change out the gears for sure |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 12/17/2007 8:14 PM |
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Hi Fordmudder - You're one of the lucky few then...
The issue we took with this is the stress these large, heavy tires put on the entire drive train. Yes, you could change your gears and toss 38's on 1/2 ton running gear and drive it on the street for quite some time. But put a fair amount of stress on them, and it definately will take its toll on the drivetrain, wihtout fail. Simply put, 1/2 ton running gear isn't designed for the stresses that 38's put on it.
Not trying to be argumentative, but I've seen 1/2 ton running gear fail with large tires at least a dozen times (I'm not exaggerating), on and off the trail.
Rick
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
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'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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fordmudder1985
Bone Stock
Posts:3
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| 12/26/2007 2:13 PM |
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| i have seen that happen myself and when asked about they're gears they have said stock and thats allot of their problem right there, if you put big tires on a truck you have to change the gears if you want a good set up atleast. with hi gears on and off the trail your tranny and drivlines to get hurt or struggle as bad but i have been lucky with this truck. with the 38's its rock crawled, mudded, drove down the highway just fine without struggling, and been jumped 5ft off the ground it gets put through hell and still wants more and its got about 173,000 miles on it the pics are on my profile check them out |
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webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
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| 12/26/2007 5:03 PM |
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| Good lookin' truck. I'll keep my fingers crossed on your axles. :) |
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Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
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'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
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fordmudder1985
Bone Stock
Posts:3
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| 12/27/2007 5:11 PM |
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| i aint worried about the axles im just thinking that the engine has lived a long life lol |
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