|
|
|
|
| Author |
Messages |
|
n/a
Body Lift
Posts:176
 |
| 09/22/2005 10:21 PM |
|
well for one it's an old beat up truck.keep in mind!!!
now here's what i got:79 chevy 4x4 short bed 1/2 ton 4"suspention/4" body,38.5x15x16.5 gumbo mudders,355cu.375 hp.400lbs.torque 76' 3/4 ton axel's 4.10 gear's open dif F. locker B.
as for my problem:
normal use on road it has a darting problem at any speed.like if you lost your steering box or tierod end.
all new steering part's list:
upper/lowwer ball joint's,both tierod's long/short,2 new steering tierod end's wheel bearing'sL/R,new poly bushing's F/R,new steering box/frame support(welded in)/pump,new steering armretight'en u bolt's.fabbed some solid front shackel's up at work
I took it to a shop,and had it aligned.still does it.now for the front spring purches they are riveted in from the factory.it look's
like they are moving very littel. should i weld them in?and last what
kind of frame support would you suggest i do? |
|
Hay!! Can you get your dad's dozer? wwwwwwhaaaaaat?? |
|
|
SnoMan
Lift & Lockers
Posts:943
|
| 09/23/2005 5:25 AM |
|
quote:
Originally posted by wide open
well for one it's an old beat up truck.keep in mind!!!
now here's what i got:79 chevy 4x4 short bed 1/2 ton 4"suspention/4" body,38.5x15x16.5 gumbo mudders,355cu.375 hp.400lbs.torque 76' 3/4 ton axel's 4.10 gear's open dif F. locker B.
as for my problem:
normal use on road it has a darting problem at any speed.like if you lost your steering box or tierod end.
all new steering part's list:
upper/lowwer ball joint's,both tierod's long/short,2 new steering tierod end's wheel bearing'sL/R,new poly bushing's F/R,new steering box/frame support(welded in)/pump,new steering armretight'en u bolt's.fabbed some solid front shackel's up at work
I took it to a shop,and had it aligned.still does it.now for the front spring purches they are riveted in from the factory.it look's
like they are moving very littel. should i weld them in?and last what
kind of frame support would you suggest i do?
You have a bad combo to work with and there are a couple of forces at work here. One is the short wheel base with big tires will make it twitchy if when all is well. The second is with 4.10 with 38's you are getting some chassis twist from driveline torque that is aggrevating steering a bit. The third is that the truck was never design to handle that much mass and stress from those tires and it is overwhelming the front axle and its steering. If you have not installed a beef up plate under steering box do so now and on the possible loose rivets, drill them out and install at least grade 5 bolts in their place as welding could weaken frame if done improperly. You might look into a assisted power steering unit too and and I would be seting up a D60 to not a 44 for that use. 35's is about the max that I like to see on a D44 or 10 bolt front axle. You have a lot of things that are marginal and they all add up to a bigger problem. |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
n/a
Body Lift
Posts:176
|
| 09/23/2005 3:56 PM |
|
| thank's snoman
it just seem's over kill on the darting.this truck has been abused pretty bad,and I knowbefore I bought this truck it went threw the ringer.when out trail ridingthisthing twist's like a rubber band.flex is good ,but man!!!
The bed's hitting the cab it's so bad.(orv trail's).
any suggestion on beefing up the frame??? |
|
Hay!! Can you get your dad's dozer? wwwwwwhaaaaaat?? |
|
|
n/a
Body Lift
Posts:176
|
| 10/04/2005 7:01 PM |
|
well me and a freind where talking about the frame ,and desided that we needed to fab up some cross member's. the front one is a bolt in peace of stamped 1/8 thick.turnning to cheese! (rotted)this one is under the radiator core support. then we moved back and found another thin peace behind the cab or in the front section of the bed. the rest look's good.
so going to fab some bolt in 2" tube's 1/4" tube's with c channel plates weld to the tube.drill the hole's and in stall.hope it help's!!! |
|
Hay!! Can you get your dad's dozer? wwwwwwhaaaaaat?? |
|
|
webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
|
| 10/04/2005 8:28 PM |
|
| Sounds like it should be pretty stout. Make sure you're using tubing and not pipe - but you probably already know that. [)] |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
n/a
Body Lift
Posts:176
|
| 10/06/2005 5:00 PM |
|
| tubeing all the way!pipe would bendup like a pretzel.
what do you think of them king shock's ?
should i go with the one's with or with out resvoir? |
|
Hay!! Can you get your dad's dozer? wwwwwwhaaaaaat?? |
|
|
webby4x4
Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
Rock Star
Posts:2375
|
| 10/06/2005 7:42 PM |
|
A year ago I did a comprehensive study on shock absorbers... take a peek at: http://www.4x4review.com/feature/shock-genius.asp and let me know what you think.
It might answer your question, but then again, the article could suck and only make you more stupider. [)] |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
n/a
Body Lift
Posts:176
|
| 10/07/2005 1:21 AM |
|
| well just got a littel smarter on the shock teck info.nothing like going to school.LOL!
thank's! for the link rick.
thought about them air shock's to,but I think my truck is a littel over weight for them.
any idea's on coil spring/shock setup? |
|
Hay!! Can you get your dad's dozer? wwwwwwhaaaaaat?? |
|
|
|
| Please login or register to post a message or a reply. |
|
|
|
ActiveForums 3.7
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|