webby4x4 Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
 Rock Star Posts:2375

 |
| 04/05/2005 12:42 AM |
|
| Here is where you can post your idesa, tips and tricks to share with us, and the rest of the world, what you do to get your rig ready for Spring. |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
batch
 Street Queen Posts:117
 |
| 04/05/2005 9:54 PM |
|
I actually get to do some wheeling during the winter so I dont have to completely have to dig my rig out of mothballs but there are definitely some things that I want to accomplish (just as an excuse to get out into the garage if nothing else)...
-Clean the be-jeezus out of my ride. (Maybe if I did a better job at the when I last rode it it wouldnt be so hard to do now). This includes getting underneath with a brush and some soap to get all of the nooks and crannies.
-Change the oil
-Check and adjust tire pressure
-Grease all fittings
-Brake inspection
-Buy a new air filter
-Hit the auto parts store and replenish my consumables supply including brake fluid, spark plugs, oil, WD 40, and fix a flat
This would also seem to be a good time to do some trailer maintenance. Does anyone have any suggestions? |
|
|
|
|
jodyc
 Bone Stock Posts:3

 |
| 04/07/2005 11:41 PM |
|
You bring up a good point. Trailer maintenance. I first pulled my trailer out a few weeks ago to load up the Jeep and realized that the brakes where in desperate need of repair. Not only that but one of the brake lights was out, and the tires all had vastly different air pressures. Strangely I spent a whole day preparing the Jeep for a day of wheeling the wee out of it, and just assumed the trailer was ready to go after no use for 6 months. Needless to say I had another 2 hours of work before the Jeep even went on it! Note to self, check the trailer when you check the Jeep!
Jody |
|
|
|
|
grumpydawg
 Street Queen Posts:100

 |
| 04/09/2005 11:53 AM |
|
| just spent 2 hours trying to get trailer lights going....if I would have checked the light bulbs(corroded) it would have been done in 10 minutes |
|
when in doubt use duct tape |
|
|
grumpydawg
 Street Queen Posts:100

 |
| 03/18/2007 11:17 AM |
|
this year i'm making a check list when i get my trailers ready on stuff to check/do so i can refer to the list later down the road to see when i did it last and to help next year.
my memory is only about this [---] long. |
|
when in doubt use duct tape |
|
|
SnoMan
 Lift & Lockers Posts:943

 |
| 03/18/2007 12:27 PM |
|
| My wheeling kinda ends in warmer months. I rarely use 4x4 for anything during that time except maybe out in the woods on my property doing chores and work. |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
ChevyMan0784
 Lift & Lockers Posts:699

 |
| 03/19/2007 12:16 AM |
|
| Kinda goes without saying, but I am putting in a brand new fire extinguisher, axe, pick, and spade. And also a case of water and power bars in my tool box. And of course bailing wire, extra bolts, maybe some lengths of various hoses, an extra carb, (and apparently timing chains are good to have, right Webby and SnoMan??). |
|
gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield
*Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge.
*Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!!
*98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD.
THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS |
|
|
webby4x4 Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
 Rock Star Posts:2375

 |
| 03/20/2007 6:59 PM |
|
quote: Originally posted by ChevyMan0784
...and apparently timing chains are good to have, right Webby and SnoMan??...
I just about spit beer all over my monitor and keyboard when I read that! That was really funny.
Rick |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
SnoMan
 Lift & Lockers Posts:943

 |
| 03/21/2007 9:26 AM |
|
| You know the funny thing is is that it is pretty easy to check a chain for tightness without even tearing into it as sort of a PM measure. |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
webby4x4 Forum Admin, Magazine Editor
 Rock Star Posts:2375

 |
| 03/21/2007 10:36 AM |
|
| are you going to make us guess, or will you impart your wisdom? ;) |
|
Rick Webster
Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'74 FJ40 Land Cruiser
"Measure once, cut twice" |
|
|
SnoMan
 Lift & Lockers Posts:943

 |
| 03/21/2007 3:37 PM |
|
| I have been using the trick for about 30 years and I kinda discovered this method by "accident" while working on a BB 396. I used this for many years on SB and BB Chevy's and other vehicles too. You want to first have the engine warm, not hot or cold but warm enough for oil to be limber and cool enough that you can touch it. It you have a manual tranny, place it in neutral and the automatic does not matter. With engine OFF, you want to place a socket and breaker bar on the damper/crank nut on front of engine (you do not want a ratchet for this) Rotate engine around until you can see a timing mark lining up with timing tab on front of engine (this is not a must do or have but it will help as you soon will see) When you get there stop in approx the center of the index timing tab and record/remember reading. Then carefully reverse rotation of crank and as you slow start backwards you will feel when the sloop in cam drive chain it taken up and drag increases as you "pick up" the cam. (this is not as hard as it sounds because once you have done it a time or two you will beable to feel this slop zone easily. Record or memorize the degree reading on the time tab between the ends of the slop travel. A good tight chain will have 5 degrees or less slop in it. 5 to 10 degrees is kinda the "okay" zone. When you get to 10 degrees or so it is time to think about changing it and at 15 degrees and more you are kinda playing with fire. If your engine does not have a degree mark on it simple measure diameter of damper or crank pulley, multiply by 3.14 and then divide by 72 and this will give you the surface distance on pulley or damper in 5 degree steps so that when you mark it and use a reference against it when you see how far it travels you can convert it to degrees. Do you follow me? Like I said. once you do it a time or two and get the feel for it it is not hard to do and on some engines (if you have a strong grip) you can grab the damper/pulley and turn it by hand and feel the slop quickly. (I usually do it this way when possible as i can feel the sloop better) |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|
SnoMan
 Lift & Lockers Posts:943

 |
| 03/21/2007 6:25 PM |
|
| I might also add that was chain gets slop in it from wear it effectively retards the timing of the cam and when this happens it can enhance the top end of the engine a little bit at the expense of a little less response and efficiency at lower RPMs. Advancing the cam timing has the opposite effect. In the old day we used to tweak the cam timing some with offset keys to dial a cam in a bit better. They also made adjustable cam gears that gave you more latitude in this. |
|
--------------------------
Visit the SnoMan at
www.thesnoman.com |
|
|