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Subject: Distributor woes
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ChevyMan0784User is Offline
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03/16/2007 3:40 PM  
Ok, I am not getting any spark and I have power to my distributor. I went and replaced the Cap, rotor, and the coil....but to no avail. So I said screw it....they had a sale on Accels, so I bought a whole new setup. Put it in, and STILL no spark...but I still have power to it. So, when I was putting in the new one I realized that there was an extra set of wires (harness) coming out of the back of the distributor. And the modulator has 5 pins (two on one side and three on the other) instead of 4. I think this is why it is not starting up, because it is not plugged in ( the extra harness) and there is no place for it on the new one. Anybody have any info on this oddity???

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/16/2007 3:46 PM  
What year is this thing again? ( I know that it at least has HEI) The pickup does not really draw much power but it does provide the trigger signal of ignition system. If you have wrong module or pin-out for your truck it will not work because trigger signal may not be sent.

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03/16/2007 3:53 PM  
it is an 86. like I said...the modulater in the new dist. is different then the one that was in the old one. I havent ever seen it before. But the truck wouldnt start before either (when I had the old dist. in it). So, I have no idea what is up. Maybe I have to get this very specific type of dist. intead of the regular ole dist. with a 4 pin modulater.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/16/2007 3:56 PM  
you have the big cap, internal coil style distributor right?

Rick Webster

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ChevyMan0784User is Offline
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03/16/2007 4:01 PM  
yea I do, I have HEI with the in cap coil. if you want I can take some pics to show you the difference between the distributors. It is only that wiring coming out of the back (4 wires with a 4 way flat looking clip) otherwise it is normal.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/16/2007 4:07 PM  
just shoot me the part number of the new distributor. I'll pull it up online.

Thanks, Rick

Rick Webster

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03/16/2007 4:11 PM  
Ok the part number for the NEW Accel distributor is 35361, it is the same one I have used in my other trucks (75, 84, 76, etc.) But for some reason the one that came out of the truck (the stock one prolly) has that extra four wires that plug into the firewall.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/17/2007 6:11 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by ChevyMan0784
Ok the part number for the NEW Accel distributor is 35361, it is the same one I have used in my other trucks (75, 84, 76, etc.) But for some reason the one that came out of the truck (the stock one prolly) has that extra four wires that plug into the firewall.


That is because your distributor you are trying to use has support for ESC (electronic spark control) The earlier models you mention, do not.

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03/17/2007 8:58 AM  
But as long as the new distributor is getting power, shouldnt it fire anyway? It is stand alone. I am starting to think that I either skipped a timming chain tooth or broke it. I mean, I SHOULD be getting SOME spark right?? Even if it for some reason was 180 degrees off?

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/17/2007 9:17 AM  
well, even if you skipped a timing tooth, the distributor will still send power, it just won't spark the spark plug during the right time.

Silly question, but I assume you have put a timing light on each of the spark plug wires while the engine was cranking? If you don't have a timing light, shove a #2 Phillips screwdriver in the sparkplug boot (fully engaging the metal coupler) and lay the screwdriver shank very close to the body, exhaust manifold, etc. and check for spark while cranking - BE VERY CAREFUL THOUGH!!! GM HEI will knock you on your A$$! Trust me, I've done it a few times myself.

If you don't have spark, I would assume that the wires on the distributor are potentially hooked up incorrectly.



Rick

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03/17/2007 9:26 AM  
P.S. The part # 35361 refers to the HEI control module part number, not the distributor.

Rick

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03/17/2007 9:34 AM  
I have not done the screw driver method of checking spark, but I did pull out the #1 spark plug and put it in the boot and touched it to the chassis. I would assume this would do the same thing....right?? And I have NOT used a timing light, as I do not currently have one. I suppose I can recheck the wires(for like the 4th time) to see if some of them are crossed.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/17/2007 9:51 AM  
when you put the plug into the boot and laid the threaded part on the chassis, while you were cranking the engine, did you physically see a spark?

Rick

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03/17/2007 9:55 AM  
If you did see a spark (a healthy one - should be light blue in color, and you should hear the spark popping when it happens), then your problem isn't an issue of not getting electricity from the distributor, it's likely in the timing.

If you're NOT getting a spark, then you'll need to check the wires going to the distributor, to make sure they're in the right sequence / receptacles. If you need a schematic outlining what wires go to each plug receptacle on your distributor, just Google "GM HEI 4-pin wiring diagram" and you should find several out there.

Rick

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03/17/2007 1:14 PM  
quote:
Originally posted by ChevyMan0784
But as long as the new distributor is getting power, shouldnt it fire anyway?




I am not sure it would work without looking at schematic comparison of circuit. The magnetic pickup in a ESC system is different for reasons more than just pin out because it does more than just provide a trigger signal like conventional HEI does. It may not work at all.

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03/17/2007 4:21 PM  
Well I still put in a brand new 5 pin style distributor with the pigtail coming out of it, and still nothing...it is the correct distributor now. So Is the wiring diagram different from a 4 pin and a 5 pin style dist?? I am stumped on this one... I have been doing this for at least 7 years now and have never come across something like this. I will check the diagram tonight. Now, if the timing chain broke....I would here crazy noises when I turn it over right? And it was running great until I turned it off and tried to turn it on.... ARGHGHGHGHGHG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/17/2007 7:01 PM  
Does it throw a spark when cranking?

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03/18/2007 12:06 AM  
No spark at all, none. At no time are there any sparks. Not even a weak one. Just none

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/18/2007 4:24 AM  
And the distributor is rotating when you crank correct? I will try to chase down a schematic for it to see how a 86 is wired in the ignition area is it is turning when you crank it.

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03/18/2007 4:33 PM  
Ok, I checked out the rotor....and it does NOT rotate when the engine is turned over. So I am assuming that the timing chain is broke. Except there is no wierd noise coming from the motor at all

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/18/2007 4:48 PM  
quote:
Originally posted by ChevyMan0784
Ok, I checked out the rotor....and it does NOT rotate when the engine is turned over. So I am assuming that the timing chain is broke. Except there is no wierd noise coming from the motor at all


Okay, progress. It is a non interference motor so it will not make funny noises cranking other than uneven compression. You might check the shear pin in distributor drive gear. Also make sure distributor is fully seating because it drives oil pump shaft via a notch in bottom of distributor drive gear that it fits into and if it is not lined up it will not allow distributor to engage cam gear. Also you could pull a valve cover and crank motor and see if there is any valve action to show if chain is busted. It is not unusually for a loose chain to throw of and bind and then break at shutdown/startup but it has to be pretty loose for that to happen.

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03/18/2007 4:53 PM  
yea, both of my brand new distributors are fine in the pin area.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/18/2007 4:56 PM  
it's either a broken cam shaft (hopefully not), or a busted timing chain (more likely) then.

Rick Webster

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03/18/2007 5:05 PM  
This is so crazy, I have never had anything like this happen before. It was running great before I shut it off the last time. No hint at any problems, no wierd noises...no vibarations. Insane I tell you.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/18/2007 5:50 PM  
timing chains usually fall off or break when you either shut off the engine, or let off the gas, so in all honesty, it's not that unusual.

I've had two timing chains go out on me in my life. The first time I was driving from Louisiana to Illinois in an '81 Pontiac Sunfire (real piece of sh * t car...) - anyhow, I was just getting on the off ramp, and as soon as I let off the gas, the car died - stranded in the middle of nowhere at 2 a.m., cornfields as far as the eye could see. The only cool part is that I got picked up by Jerry Lee Lewis' borther-in-law (you know, the "great balls of fire" guy). I guess that's not important though... ;)

The second time was out on the trail in a '74 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 w/ a Chevy 350 mill. As I was cresting a hill, I let off the gas and the exact same thing happened. This time the timing chain didn't break, it was just so stretched that it fell of the gears. I was able to fix it on the trail after a 5 hour trail fix (what a nightmare).

At any rate, the point I'm making is that there really are no decent symptoms or signs of a stretched timing chain or any advance notice. Typically you tune your vehicle over the years and adjust the timing anyhow... and timing changes are the only notable signs of a timing chain that's about to give up the ghost on an older Chevy 350 mill. Sometimes - if you're real lucky - you'll start to hear some racket in the timing chain cover as it might tap against the cover, but you usually can't hear it over the engine.

I would loosen the bolts on the cover and see if you can't pry it back a bit to see if that's what happened.



Rick

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03/18/2007 5:51 PM  
P.S. - even the best quality, dual-roller timing chain sets will only set you back like $40 - it's a VERY cheap fix, although pretty darned time consuming.

Rick Webster

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03/18/2007 5:54 PM  
thanks alot man, I appreciate it.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/18/2007 5:55 PM  
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D2100&autoview=sku

Summit has a Comp Cams Magnum, double-roller, steel timing chain set for your truck for $31. Autozone also sells high-end timing-chain sets (like Comp Cams, Cloyes, etc.) and they'll set you back right around the same price.

Swapping these out is actually very easy to do, once you get the radiator, alternator, water pump, etc. out of the way. Once you align the gears, it's all "bolt on" from there.



Rick

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03/18/2007 6:00 PM  
is it going to be a pain to align the cam and crank shaft together? Considering they are not in sinc anymore? Or is it the same thing as when you build up a motor?

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/18/2007 6:04 PM  
P.S. - if you do this, be sure to set #1 piston at ABSOLUTE Top Dead Center - it'll make mounting the distributor and everything else quite a bit easier.

If you still have the stock harmonic blancer and timing indicator, that should be accurate enough. Just align the "0" marks on the timing indicator to the balancer.





If you don't have the original equipment, here's the "cheater's way" of doing it...

1) Disconnect the battery 2) Pull all of the spark plugs 3) Have someone put a finger over the spark plug hole on # 1 piston. 4) Rotate the engine with the crank pulley bolt (5/8" deep well socket on a breaker bar works best) in a clockwise direction. 5) As they start to feel air pressure building, stop, and have them use a small flat-tip screwdriver and a flashlight to feel / watch the piston rise in the bore. The screwdriver can be rested flatly against the top of the piston. Keep rotating the engine slowly... As the piston approaches TDC, you'll keep rotating the engine and the screwdriver will stop moving. You'll get a little bit of rotation on the pulley, without the piston moving... This will be TDC (not quite ATDC, but close enough). Personally, I would make marks on the blancer between the areas where the screwdriver stops moving, and then split the differrence. Then you'll be within 1/2 to 1 degree of absolute top dead center. Certainly more than good-enough for an older engine that's not a high-performance motor.



Rick

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03/18/2007 6:07 PM  
quote:
Originally posted by ChevyMan0784
is it going to be a pain to align the cam and crank shaft together? Considering they are not in sinc anymore? Or is it the same thing as when you build up a motor?


Nope, it's a piece of cake actually...

Get #1 to TDC first, then you can hook a wrench up to the bolts on the cam gear (the large one) and rotate it around until the round dot is perfectly at the bottom. You'll be fighting the force of the lifter springs is all, but it rotates fairly freely.

If you want to make the rotation REALLY easy, you can pull the valve covers off and loosen the rocker arms, but you'll have to readjust the valves after you're done.



Actually, now that I'm typing this out, that's probably the best thing to do anyhow.

If you need to know how to adjust the valves, let me know and I can walk you through that process - it's actually very easy.

Rick

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03/18/2007 6:27 PM  
Thanks alot. Let me through the whole rippen her down part, and see whats happening...then I will get back to you on the rest of it all. I appreciate it Rick.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/18/2007 6:51 PM  
You're most welcome! Hey... it's the least I can do for you reading our magazine!!!! [)]

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03/18/2007 7:59 PM  
Always a loyal fan, and am always grateful for no BS help. You guys do a great job of helping people out with their mechanical issues. And always put out great tech articles.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/19/2007 6:10 AM  
Timing chains are not hard to to do on a SB. Do replace front seal on crank for damper while it is apart and do change cam gear too regardless of how it looks but I would leave crank gear on. The reason you change cam gear is because given its diameter that a little wear can add a fair amount of slop.

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03/19/2007 8:08 AM  
You're right Snoman - timing chains are pretty easy to change on a SB.

I would however strongly recommend that he change both gears - no sense in doing it half-baked if you've already got access to everything, and... timing chain sets come with the chain and both gears anyhow.

P.S. Given the VERY slight difference in price, I would also get a double-roller timing chain set, and not an el-cheapo non roller, single chain.

Rick

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03/19/2007 9:20 AM  
Maybe when you buy them as a set but you can get parts seperately and sometimes the one on crank can be a pill to remove in car with pan still on. Since it has so little contact area with chain it takes a lot more wear there to effect chain much plus lower spocket is generally better lubed too

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03/19/2007 10:35 AM  
You know, I have a new Corvette motor for it now. I got it with my 83 shortbed project (for 1000 bucks!!) so I think I will hold off and replace the 305 with the Corvette 350 crate motor. But what do you guys think of the commonly refered to "noisy gears". The dual Idler gear set for timing?

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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03/19/2007 3:54 PM  
I know I'll catch a lot of flack for this, but I realllllly like the sound of noisey timing gears, in particular, Pete Jackson noisey timing gears. They have a unique, metallic, almost turbo-charger sound to them.

Aside from the "cool" sound, there are really no real benefits for the type of motor you're running. I'll put a good set of Cloyes double-rollers against a set of timing gears for durability / lengevity any day of the week, in a stock-to-moderately built motor.

That's my $.02 ;)

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03/19/2007 4:01 PM  
Unless you wind it up past 5K a lot a stock change will do fine. One footnote though if you do not change your oil often, the timing chain will suffer from it before motor does otherwise. One more thing, if you like hard hammer like shifts that change engine RPM very suddenly, they are hard on timing chains too.

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03/19/2007 4:23 PM  
Great info guys, I like the whine of the noisy gears too. But I also see the point where they are just as good as a decent chain. I think I may go with the gears on the new motor.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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04/06/2007 3:47 PM  
Ok, guys. I have everything I need to do my new timing chain. But my Haynes tells me to find TDC before I take everything off. Now how do I do that when the crankshaft and camshaft wont move together? Do I have to move each on their own till I figure it out? or is there a proceedure to find TDC when you have broken your timing chain? Hopefully you guys understand what I am stabbing at.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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04/06/2007 3:53 PM  
Ok, cancel that. We already went over that, lol. I just read back to page one! haha, well I will tell you guys how this goes. I am assuming I will mess something up and have a great story from it.

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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04/06/2007 5:35 PM  
As long as you line up the timing marks when installing chain and gear, you "cannot" get it wrong. After installing it. rotate engine through with a wrench and recheck alignment and if it double checks, finish buttoning it up.

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04/06/2007 6:07 PM  
cool, thanks alot SnoMan. I just got everything down to the damper and realized that was the first thing I should have loosened up. Now I need to go grab a chain wrench to hold the damper still while I crank out the bolt

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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04/06/2007 8:22 PM  
quote:
Originally posted by ChevyMan0784
cool, thanks alot SnoMan. I just got everything down to the damper and realized that was the first thing I should have loosened up. Now I need to go grab a chain wrench to hold the damper still while I crank out the bolt


If you have a impact wrench you will not need to hold the crank to remove the bolt.

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04/06/2007 9:38 PM  
If you don't have an impact wrench, then you can put a 5/8" socket and a breaker bar on it, and smack the snot out of it with a hammer. That will bust it loose so that you can get the bolt off, then put a harmonic balancer puller on it.

Rick

Rick Webster

Editor, 4X4REVIEW.COM - A Tork Media, Inc. Publication

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04/06/2007 10:19 PM  
Well, I actually used a handy dandy strap wrench!!! The strap is made of old tires. Worked freaking awsome!!! It did exactly what I wanted it to do. And man, I could swear I remember some one saying it wasnt the chain, but the plastic gear on the cam side of things. And WOW! was some one right!! lol. Every one I have ever opened up was all metal. So I guess I was lucky till now! Anyway here is a pic. I havent assembled it yet, I will wait till tomorrow. So the dots on each gear should be closest to each other right? (when reasemmbling)







Image Uploaded To Thread:
[img]http://www.4x4review.com/discussions2/uploaded/chevyman0784/20074622191_timing gears.JPG[/img]

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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04/06/2007 10:59 PM  
Yep you had one of those good old trashy gears that used a aluminum gear faced with nylon. This is a classic failure. This must have been a old engine because they have not used them for a while.

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04/06/2007 11:38 PM  
Yep, its my 1986 K10. Original 305. Kinda sucky, but it has power believe it or not. I guess it could be a 350, there is just no tellin with out looking up the motor numbers which are buried in grease. But I will let you guys know how this thing turns out tomorrow. Hopefully it fires up and runs good the first time!!

gimmie fuel gimmie fire gimmie that which I desire-James Hetfield *Never give an Irish man good cause for revenge. *Guns dont kill people, but they sure help!! *98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S**t' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A ICEY ROAD. THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM ALASKA, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS
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